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2005 Polaris RMK 900

Ok guys. I bought 2005 polaris rmk 900 rolling chassis to put a 900 out of a different sled into it. What updates/mods need to be done right away and what order do you guys think they should be done in with #1 starting as prority?

I already have a 2ndary clutch balanced and setup for the 3211115 belt, now I am going to send the primary off to IndyDan.

What else do you guys suggest?

thanks
 
there is MANY MANY help for links at the top of the 900 forum some really good info.
but

06 oem pistons ONLY
check TB boots for cracks
oiler cable is junk and tends to break freeze etc
motor mounts- there is aftermarket and the 06 updated ones
 
Well, some obvious things that you probably are already doing since motor is out.

Throttle body intake boots.
new motor mounts.
Make sure you have 06 pistons.
New bolt for the primary.
New oil and fuel filters.
cover any wires near the pipe with aluminum heat tape.
Throttle/oil cable.
Adjust TPS sensor.
Nord-lock washers and new bolts for the exhaust Y-pipe.
 
Well, some obvious things that you probably are already doing since motor is out.

Throttle body intake boots.
new motor mounts.
Make sure you have 06 pistons.
New bolt for the primary.
New oil and fuel filters.
cover any wires near the pipe with aluminum heat tape.
Throttle/oil cable.
Adjust TPS sensor.
Nord-lock washers and new bolts for the exhaust Y-pipe.
leak-down test engine before installation
check for any play in the steering linkage while you can get at it
grade 8 engine mounting bolts
helper spring on oil pump arm
secure center cavity lube hose fitting (above oil pump)
remove lower recoil housing bolts that are not accessible with engine installed
replace, or upgrade recoil cord......
 
Thanks for the reply's guys. I just pulled the primary clutch off tonight and it must have been balanced already. As the belt is a 3211115 belt and it looks like the primary and 2ndary have more holes in it than from the factory.

How do I tell for sure if they have been balanced? Or is the updated belt a good hint they have been since they would need to be spaced for the belt?

1----TB boots are cracked so they will be getting changed.
--------anyone make better than stock ones?
2----Motor mounts,
--------do you just replace them with stock ones?
3----pistons
--------how are the 06 pistons better? and is there a better aftermarket one?
4----primary bolt
--------whats wrong with the stock one and how do I tell if its been changed already?
5----throttle/oil cable
---------is a stock one good or is there an aftermarket to go with?
6----TPS, whats the reasoning for adjusting it?
7----recoil bolts-------------will this weaken the houseing when trying to start and risk it cracking?
8---what recoil cord do you reccomend?


Thanks guys
 
Thanks for the reply's guys. I just pulled the primary clutch off tonight and it must have been balanced already. As the belt is a 3211115 belt and it looks like the primary and 2ndary have more holes in it than from the factory.

How do I tell for sure if they have been balanced? Or is the updated belt a good hint they have been since they would need to be spaced for the belt?

Updated belt does not tell you if they balanced the clutch.

1----TB boots are cracked so they will be getting changed.
--------anyone make better than stock ones?
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170760

2----Motor mounts,
--------do you just replace them with stock ones?
06 motor mounts or ones from high Perf

3----pistons
--------how are the 06 pistons better? and is there a better aftermarket one?
05 Pistons have a design flaw and lose the skirts often. 06 pistons are the best there is. Aftermarket Pistons are not as reliable as factory 05

4----primary bolt
--------whats wrong with the stock one and how do I tell if its been changed already?
Doesn't matter if it has been changed. They stretch a little each time they are torqued and can break. You clutch has been off at least once or twice since it has been set-up for the 1115 belt. Not work taking the risk. Some of the guy here had very bad days because the bolt snapped.


5----throttle/oil cable
---------is a stock one good or is there an aftermarket to go with?
Stock Oil cable tends to stick. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276270


6----TPS, whats the reasoning for adjusting it?
To make sure it is set right after you have engine out. If it is wrong your sled will not run right and could burn up engine.

7----recoil bolts-------------will this weaken the houseing when trying to start and risk it cracking?
No, all of us have removed the bottom two bolts. If you leave them in you have to undo the motor mounts and tip engine forward to remove pull start.

8---what recoil cord do you reccomend?
Armorcord


Thanks guys

Hope that helps
 
haha.....you have a lot of reading to do. Up at the top of the 900 sec. there are 3 or four "stickys" that have all the info you are looking for
 
Once all done, these sleds should be worth it. :) I bought 3 of these sleds and gonna make 2 sleds out of the 3. Some of the mods have been done to each of them already which helps me out.
 
What do you guys suggest on the track. 1 sled is a 159" and the other is 151". Most of my riding will be hard packed trails 70% with occasional powder 30% here in Iowa. I thought about taking a razor blade to it and cutting the lugs down to 1/1/4 or so.

thanks

also what do you guys suggest for drilling the track? i have seen places where people talk about drilling out the track for better cooling?
 
Last edited:
Leave the 159 alone for those powder days or trips westward there are alot of options in 151 lenghts maybe even a swap with some one or sell it.
 
drilling center of track lets it flip snow out of the middle of the track into the cooler. It does seem to help them cool a little better on the trail.
 
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