2003 Rev 800 10 tooth drivers too big?

[xxcharles_exx]

*My sled is 2003 Ski Doo Rev 800 MXZ*
Ok well I just changed out my track and drivers and went from a 121" with the stock 9 tooth drivers and put rail extensions on to make it a 136" with a 1.5" paddle with 10 tooth anti ratcheting drivers. The set up came off of an 07 Rev 800 and I was told all should go right on mine which it did but after I got everything done and took it around the yard I found that when I would compress the suspension hopping off the driveway into the yard that the track would bind up untill the suspension rose up then it would ride fine going through the powder.

When I pulled it back in the shop I seen that the front of my rails were super close to the drivers and were causing the mayham, I tried taking the caps off to see if it would give any more clearance but it did the same thing.

I was wondering if anyone here has ran into this issue and what the best thing to do would be? I'm pretty new to sled but I know mechanics, I could buy new 9 tooth drivers and that should make it clear but I was wondering if I could trim the ends of the rails back and round the ends so the track wouldn't catch on them or even move the suspension back where the four bolts go on back a 3/4" or so and should give it clearance.


Thanks for reading,
Charles

 

[gman086]

Ok well I just changed out my track and drivers and went from a 121" with the stock 9 tooth drivers and put rail extensions on to make it a 136" with a 1.5" paddle with 10 tooth anti ratcheting drivers. The set up came off of an 07 Rev 800 and I was told all should go right on mine which it did but after I got everything done and took it around the yard I found that when I would compress the suspension hopping off the driveway into the yard that the track would bind up untill the suspension rose up then it would ride fine going through the powder.

When I pulled it back in the shop I seen that the front of my rails were super close to the drivers and were causing the mayham, I tried taking the caps off to see if it would give any more clearance but it did the same thing.

I was wondering if anyone here has ran into this issue and what the best thing to do would be? I'm pretty new to sled but I know mechanics, I could buy new 9 tooth drivers and that should make it clear but I was wondering if I could trim the ends of the rails back and round the ends so the track wouldn't catch on them or even move the suspension back where the four bolts go on back a 3/4" or so and should give it clearance.


Thanks for reading,
Charles

Nope, 10 tooth extros will not work on that sled. I used 9 tooth extros on my conversion and it just does clear after I cut the front of the rails down and moved the caps back (was a PITA as you have to reproduce the notched rail ends if you want to use the stock caps). Pic of the difference below. You might be able to get away with it IF you cut off the entire end of the rail to the bolt for the straps but then you'd need to run an anti-stab kit = about the same price as drivers. Also the clearance is bad with 10 tooth drivers at the bulkhead.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - I don't recommend moving the skid back as there's no real structural strength to bond the rear drop brackets to once you move further out.

 

[xxcharles_exx]

Thanks Gman! I was kinda worried about the tight clearances right by the coolers in there and wouldn't get proper snow build up. For the moment I'm going to swap my stock 9 tooth drivers non extruded just to get me by for a while untill I can find smaller extruded drivers. Do you think I would be better off to go with 8 tooth extruded to avoid the bull**** with the rails or would them probably gear it down too much?

Just kinda sucks I gotta do all that work over again but this time will be way easier not having busted bolts to fight. Also does anyone have recommendations on where to order drivers from? I usually order through WPS or Ski doo.

 

[mil81]

Nope, 10 tooth extros will not work on that sled. I used 9 tooth extros on my conversion and it just does clear after I cut the front of the rails down and moved the caps back (was a PITA as you have to reproduce the notched rail ends if you want to use the stock caps). Pic of the difference below. You might be able to get away with it IF you cut off the entire end of the rail to the bolt for the straps but then you'd need to run an anti-stab kit = about the same price as drivers. Also the clearance is bad with 10 tooth drivers at the bulkhead.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - I don't recommend moving the skid back as there's no real structural strength to bond the rear drop brackets to once you move further out.

Gman has more experience with a number of different sleds than I do and maybe he can tell you if there's a difference between the summit and the mxz but if not, I recomend moving the skid back. When I put extrovert drivers on my 03 summit I ran 9 tooth drivers and moved the skid back to the rearward position. I like the better attack angle, and handling charactoristics in this position. I have been abusing the sled with the skid pushed back for around 4 years now with no troubles. I'm not sure if you'd get away with JUST the skid set back, but it's a relatively easy thing to try, not to mention free.

Good luck

 

[xxcharles_exx]

Mil, I don't know how much difference is between the two but mine is the Mxz. Where is it that you adjust to move the skid to the rearward position?

 

[mil81]

Mil, I don't know how much difference is between the two but mine is the Mxz. Where is it that you adjust to move the skid to the rearward position?

Again I don't know if yours is the same, but if you look inside the tunnel, and inside the drop bracket, you should see holes that are pre-drilled through the support brackets. All you have to do is drill them through the tunnel and mount the skid in that location. Hopefully gman will pipe back up. I'd like to hear more of what he has to say about this. Another this that make it difficult for you is the 10 tooth drivers take up more track, so you may not have enough adjustment to mount it. You will have to try it to see. May have to buy 9 toothers and move the skid back

 

[gman086]

Again I don't know if yours is the same, but if you look inside the tunnel, and inside the drop bracket, you should see holes that are pre-drilled through the support brackets. All you have to do is drill them through the tunnel and mount the skid in that location. Hopefully gman will pipe back up. I'd like to hear more of what he has to say about this. Another this that make it difficult for you is the 10 tooth drivers take up more track, so you may not have enough adjustment to mount it. You will have to try it to see. May have to buy 9 toothers and move the skid back

I wish it were that easy but the MXZ has smaller support brackets with no extra holes and the rear drop brackets are much smaller than on Summits so you'd have to move them back too instead of just drilling new holes. At the end of the day the drivers would still be too big for track clearance issues so not worth it. Maybe for a 146" extension I would go thru the trouble but would still use the 9 tooths.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Charles, don't worry about using standard drivers - they're actually faster than extro's because the allow for less track distortion at high speeds. That's why the Mach Z uses them instead. Just have to run your track a lil' tighter which is no big deal with a 136" (becomes a bigger issue when you get out over 151").

 

[mil81]

I wish it were that easy but the MXZ has smaller support brackets with no extra holes and the rear drop brackets are much smaller than on Summits so you'd have to move them back too instead of just drilling new holes. At the end of the day the drivers would still be too big for track clearance issues so not worth it. Maybe for a 146" extension I would go thru the trouble but would still use the 9 tooths.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Charles, don't worry about using standard drivers - they're actually faster than extro's because the allow for less track distortion at high speeds. That's why the Mach Z uses them instead. Just have to run your track a lil' tighter which is no big deal with a 136" (becomes a bigger issue when you get out over 151").

I figured you knew something I didn't. Thanks for setting me straight

 

[xxcharles_exx]

Thanks everyone for the input, I put my 9 tooth drivers back in the sled and I've only gotten to go test ride it once but it's ripping like a champ. Just ordered my Boyesen rage cages, slides, and some hood straps. Can't wait to get all that put in, I have yet to do much riding because of the cracks on the intake boots.

Is there any good bumpers to put on these Rev's? My plastic handle on the front cracked on mine pulling it out the other night and was thinking a metal bumper would be pretty sweet.

 

[mil81]

Thanks everyone for the input, I put my 9 tooth drivers back in the sled and I've only gotten to go test ride it once but it's ripping like a champ. Just ordered my Boyesen rage cages, slides, and some hood straps. Can't wait to get all that put in, I have yet to do much riding because of the cracks on the intake boots.

Is there any good bumpers to put on these Rev's? My plastic handle on the front cracked on mine pulling it out the other night and was thinking a metal bumper would be pretty sweet.

I don't know of any metal bumpers, but if you head of to dootalk, check out the ttabs mod shop, and look at his "best tow system ever" you won't have to hook a strap up to the bumper anymore. Nor would you ever want to, that system rocks!!!

 

[xxcharles_exx]

Thanks, I'm going to register on there and check that out I was pulling it out by hand and somehow managed that, it might have been cracked from when I put it in alders earlier this year on my first time riding it.

 

[throttleboy]

i put a set of ten tooth drivers on mine and all i had ta do was cut 2 inches off the rails ani moved the limiter strap rod back and im just fine. and the looser u can run ur track with it not skipping is best the tighter u run it it robs horse power even with a short track