2003 800 Poo Reverse info, wtb?

[chrismorlo]

Ok I can't do it anymore, I have to put reverse on my XC. The kit for the XC is hard, if not impossible to find. bluedave on e-bay has an SXS/RMK kit for a reasonable price. He said the curve on the CDI is fine for me, just need to change the helix in the clutch. I have dealt with him before, and have been very happy. Wondering what u guys think. I really don't want the handlebar switch, and probably wont swap the tach out either. Is it worth it to get the kit or piece one together. I really only need the driven, cdi and wiring harness, correct? Can I just send out my CDI for re-mapping? Anybody have any input or those parts for sale? Depending on your input, I may put up a wtb thread. Thanks in advance....

update-Damn, he sold it and it was his last one!! Question remains, buy a kit or piece on together....

 

[Mark's RMK]

PERC

http://www.rsiracing.com/product_in...d=247&osCsid=b4af661b9e159f84c298df0252241367

You could use this switch as it only requires a momentary. The Pro-X's just had a switch with a yellow button.

Your 2003 big block would have the correct oil pump and flywheel. You need a CDI and the correct harness with the grey wire connecting to pin 22, 3rd on in on top row of the CDI (top has the bump out for the harness keeper tab)

Then the helix and you are all set.

If you want the yellow light to blink on the tach then you would replace the complete harness, including the underhood. You can jumper from the underhood harness to the tach and rob an extra light bulb grommet from a donor tach which is the approach I have taken.

The CDI seems to be the gap. I'm lookingfor one right now for my brother. I have mostly seen the 2004 and newer version with DET which works well but you need to plug the DET sensor in at a minimum for it to work right. Replacing the head with one including the DET mount is a good option becasue then you gain the protection that DET provides. I haven't found anyone that can reprogram a CDI to include PERC.

You can still use the mechanical chaincase reverse which in some ways is very simple. Interference on RMK hose routing near the chaincase can be an issue, less of an issue on a regular XC without the footwell coolers.

Good luck.

 

[chrismorlo]

http://www.rsiracing.com/product_in...d=247&osCsid=b4af661b9e159f84c298df0252241367

You could use this switch as it only requires a momentary. The Pro-X's just had a switch with a yellow button.

Your 2003 big block would have the correct oil pump and flywheel. You need a CDI and the correct harness with the grey wire connecting to pin 22, 3rd on in on top row of the CDI (top has the bump out for the harness keeper tab)

Then the helix and you are all set.

If you want the yellow light to blink on the tach then you would replace the complete harness, including the underhood. You can jumper from the underhood harness to the tach and rob an extra light bulb grommet from a donor tach which is the approach I have taken.

The CDI seems to be the gap. I'm lookingfor one right now for my brother. I have mostly seen the 2004 and newer version with DET which works well but you need to plug the DET sensor in at a minimum for it to work right. Replacing the head with one including the DET mount is a good option becasue then you gain the protection that DET provides. I haven't found anyone that can reprogram a CDI to include PERC.

You can still use the mechanical chaincase reverse which in some ways is very simple. Interference on RMK hose routing near the chaincase can be an issue, less of an issue on a regular XC without the footwell coolers.

Good luck.

Actually was going to use the ignition switch (start position) to trigger reverse. MAYBE a little more of a theft deterrent if its pulled in some where. It is pretty heavy.

Actually have thought about adding det so that is one option to go 04 and newer. I have been told you can just drill the head and tap to add det. IDK.

Still would need to find a team or poo roller driven for a reasonable price to complete.

 

[Mark's RMK]

PERC

Good idea on the key switch.

There are quite a few TSS98 Team clutches on E-Bay. SLP has recomendations in their Polaris jetting section for helix angles for clutches or you can send them an e-mail.

What length track will you be running? 121"? You might watch for a Team from a 7/800 Pro-X on e-bay that would have the helix already included.

I have never heard of drilling the head. The factory version has a dimple/boss on the coolant side that allows the bolt to have enough threads. I think there is one on e-bay right now from a Vertical Escape as they came with DET in 2003 but you want the 2004 and newer version of the DET sensor. Much more reasonably priced.

 

[chrismorlo]

Good idea on the key switch.

There are quite a few TSS98 Team clutches on E-Bay. SLP has recomendations in their Polaris jetting section for helix angles for clutches or you can send them an e-mail.

What length track will you be running? 121"? You might watch for a Team from a 7/800 Pro-X on e-bay that would have the helix already included.

I have never heard of drilling the head. The factory version has a dimple/boss on the coolant side that allows the bolt to have enough threads. I think there is one on e-bay right now from a Vertical Escape as they came with DET in 2003 but you want the 2004 and newer version of the DET sensor. Much more reasonably priced.

Thank you for the help. Think I am going to start pricing buying the parts, and if I come across a kit I will buy that. Kinda hoping to add det, as that is the only other thing I want on my sled. I have worked fery hard on ride, speed, clutching, and am very happy with its performance. Just can't drag it around anymore, and would love the pc of mind of det.

 

[sledhooligan]

I hace an 03 cdi and a team clutch doesnt have reverse helix
pm me

the last pic is a pro comm perc cdi it is 2 degrees advanced and the timing curve drops off later works well wit htwin pipes

 

[chrismorlo]

Found, cdi, harness and clutch. Still looking for a 2004 800 head takeoff, and the DET sensor.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Head - DET

There is a head on E-Bay for $85 that has the DET bung.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160482328049&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

The DET sensors aren't very expensive new.

 

[chrismorlo]

i did see that. Was a little worried about the flaws. Have a line on a new blemish free head and sensor for $150 shipped so think I am going to purchase those. Not the best deal, but not too bad either.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Head

Keep in mind you might spend a little more for the SLP head and be much happier?

 

[alsled]

Actually was going to use the ignition switch (start position) to trigger reverse.

Now where did you ever get that silly idea?, That dope on HCS?

I still think you can drill your head out ( the engine head, not the thing on your shoulders ) and bolt the det sensor to the head, there is not enough beef to drill and tap.

You don't need the whole under hood harness if you want the blinking reverse light, you just need to run 1 wire.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Reverse Light

alsled is right. Just add a wire to the underhood harness, tie it into the white wire at the connections near the hood hinge, or you can take that same wire all the way back to the CDI harness white wire. (pin 9 on the CDI) if you didn't update the sled harness.

If you tach hasn't got the bulbs in the middle (reverse) position, I have been using a donor tach to pull the bulb grommet and wires out to transfer to the sled with PERC. Works great as the lens is in the tach.

 

[chrismorlo]

Now where did you ever get that silly idea?, That dope on HCS?

I still think you can drill your head out ( the engine head, not the thing on your shoulders ) and bolt the det sensor to the head, there is not enough beef to drill and tap.

You don't need the whole under hood harness if you want the blinking reverse light, you just need to run 1 wire.

Yeah some dope on HCS, silly idea but I like it!! Did not get the whole harness, just the cdi harness. Got the new head from a 03 800 classic. It has the bung and really is the right way. Hope its all here before the weekend. Got the 4-wheeler all ready for plowing so now gotta get the sled ready. Taking my primary to Jan-cen for balancing tomorrow.

 

[chrismorlo]

alsled is right. Just add a wire to the underhood harness, tie it into the white wire at the connections near the hood hinge, or you can take that same wire all the way back to the CDI harness white wire. (pin 9 on the CDI) if you didn't update the sled harness.

If you tach hasn't got the bulbs in the middle (reverse) position, I have been using a donor tach to pull the bulb grommet and wires out to transfer to the sled with PERC. Works great as the lens is in the tach.

When I calibrated my tach, I realized the lens was there. Prolly will make the light work, just got to figure out what to do for the DET light.

 

[chrismorlo]

Keep in mind you might spend a little more for the SLP head and be much happier?

Oops didnt see this. I am very happy with my sled, and that I can run 89/91 octane with no issues. Once the DET is added, I will even have another safegaurd. Not sure which head you were referring to though.

Another question. I will be replacing my dated 02 cdi with a MY 04 cdi with a differnt curve I believe. I never had my cdi updated so bear that in mind. Do you think rejetting will be required with the new"er" cdi?

 

[Mark's RMK]

Jetting

Jetting shouldn't be affected by the head. The head I was referring to runs on premium just like the stock head.

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=18&productID=163

SLP Cheater™ Heads for 800 Twinsfor 2000-05' Polaris 800 domestic twins

Product Information:

2004-05 RMK & Switchback Stock Pipe and Single Pipe Combinations

Part #

Elevation

Retail

12-5424

0-6000'

329.95

12-5354

60000'+

329.95

Made of high quality billet aluminum for long dependable life, SLP heads provide maximum combustion efficiency for today’s fuels. With advanced combustion chamber designs tailored specifically to single or twin pipe combinations, these heads not only provide healthy performance increases, but also deliver more reliability with less chance of detonation. They feature interchangeable combustion chambers (Domes) for use in low or high altitude and easier service. Low end and midrange throttle response is improved with better top end, horsepower, and speed. The SLP Cheater™ Head uses the stock water cover plate to keep stock appearance. If fuel quality is substandard in your area please inquire for a special recommendation.

Note: 2001-05 Head Sets Include Manifold Adapter

*Fuel Blend Specification: Must use at least 1 gallon 108 motor octane race fuel with 4 galllons octaine pump fuel.

 

[Mark's RMK]

DET

DET signal is through the red temp lamp with a different signal than the overheat. I think it flashes three times for 1 second at a time. Solid 3 second fflash, off 1 second, repeats is a faulty DET sensor. Solid non-blinking is the overheat signal.

http://pi54.com/corp/manuals/Owners/9918225r03.pdf See p. 28

 

[chrismorlo]

DET signal is through the red temp lamp with a different signal than the overheat. I think it flashes three times for 1 second at a time. Solid 3 second fflash, off 1 second, repeats is a faulty DET sensor. Solid non-blinking is the overheat signal.

http://pi54.com/corp/manuals/Owners/9918225r03.pdf See p. 28

Ahh, thanks Mark. Was wondering about that. That was the head I looked up. I really am glad to use pump gas. Especially with the reg/prem switch. I try to run 91 but if I can't it runs fine. Or atleast I think, DET will prolly help determine that for sure

 

[chrismorlo]

Now where did you ever get that silly idea?, That dope on HCS?

I still think you can drill your head out ( the engine head, not the thing on your shoulders ) and bolt the det sensor to the head, there is not enough beef to drill and tap.

You don't need the whole under hood harness if you want the blinking reverse light, you just need to run 1 wire.

Speaking of which. What wires do I have to splice into at the ignition switch and also at the CDI? Or do I have to test them to find out?

 

[alsled]

Speaking of which. What wires do I have to splice into at the ignition switch and also at the CDI? Or do I have to test them to find out?

I'll have to pull the wire diagram out and let you know