2002 Summit 800 engine problems

[Goinboardin]

So I was trying to be a good friend and help my buddy replace the top end on his 2002 Summit 800, however, I failed to remove the lower radiator hose before pulling the cylinder. Some coolant spilled into the crankcase, I thought no serious problem, just pull the drain plug, spray with carb cleaner, then rinse several times with oil. Seems to me there is no drain... I was wondering what sort of suggestion the Ski Doo guys might have. Thanks in advance for any suggestions, and some ridicule is probably in order.

Also, the hole reason for the top end rebuild was a torched piston on the PTO side. The exhaust side of the piston melted down to the ring, while the rest of the dome is relatively normal looking (a little sooty). The walls of the piston (all the way around) are scored badly, and the cylinder has sheets of piston stuck to it. He said it ran out of fuel then wouldn't start when refueled (locked up at that point). I'm wondering if it could be as simple as going lean because he ran it out of fuel or if there is likely a different issue (like bad crank seal?). Thoughts? I told him we should probably pull the motor completely and have someone who has experience with crank work go through the bottom end before we reassemble (there could be peices of piston in the crankcase, and I've never assembled a bottom end before, don't want to screw his up).
Thanks

 

[RKT]

Take a shop vac with some small hose and suck the coolant out of the bottom end. Do it sooner rather than later so that the bearings are not basking in liquid..

 

[JustinB]

I always have syringes in the tool box for this. Or as RK suggested take a shop vake a small tube and go all getto on its a@@ with ducktape it works really well. Also on re assembly buy caged wrist pins it will save you the headache!

 

[turbolq4]

So I was trying to be a good friend and help my buddy replace the top end on his 2002 Summit 800, however, I failed to remove the lower radiator hose before pulling the cylinder. Some coolant spilled into the crankcase, I thought no serious problem, just pull the drain plug, spray with carb cleaner, then rinse several times with oil. Seems to me there is no drain... I was wondering what sort of suggestion the Ski Doo guys might have. Thanks in advance for any suggestions, and some ridicule is probably in order.

Also, the hole reason for the top end rebuild was a torched piston on the PTO side. The exhaust side of the piston melted down to the ring, while the rest of the dome is relatively normal looking (a little sooty). The walls of the piston (all the way around) are scored badly, and the cylinder has sheets of piston stuck to it. He said it ran out of fuel then wouldn't start when refueled (locked up at that point). I'm wondering if it could be as simple as going lean because he ran it out of fuel or if there is likely a different issue (like bad crank seal?). Thoughts? I told him we should probably pull the motor completely and have someone who has experience with crank work go through the bottom end before we reassemble (there could be peices of piston in the crankcase, and I've never assembled a bottom end before, don't want to screw his up).
Thanks

the crank seal is not real likely the cause of the piston failure as these motors have two seals on the PTO end of the crank. maybe he got something stuck in the carb and leaned it out. also check to make sure the oil lines are on the pump, they have been known to vibrate off and cause this kind if thing. How many miles are on the motor? Shop vac all the coolant out, tape up the passages, and use a blower to get all the foreign stuff out. Its alot cheaper than tearing the bottom end apart and paying for grease that costs more per ounce that cocaine! good luck

Oh, and check the carb boots for delamination!!

 

[Ox]

You wunna git your new pistons from RKT above ^^^^^.


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[Summit8]

Dittos on the shop vac, or, I take and soak all the coolant up with paper towels, spray the bottom end down good with lectra clean or starting fluid, soak that up out of the cases, then soak all the bearings down good with fogging oil while turning the crank over. All lubed up and ready for reassembly.
On the seized piston, yeah don't wanna be running out of fuel while running wide open, loss of lube. Check plug color and piston wash while riding to make sure you're not running too lean under normal operating cond. You may have issues in carburation. RKT heads allow this motor to run alot leaner and more efficiently.

 

[Goinboardin]

Thanks for all the tips guys, I used a dropper type thing to remove most of the coolant, then paper towels. Then carb cleaner, soaked that up with more paper towels (did this twice), followed by some oil while turning over the crank. Before assembly I'll get the oil out and use a shop vac, then some fogging oil.

Plugs look plenty rich (maybe a little too rich, but I'll check again once its run & broken in later this year), I ran my sled a little bit more lean all last season (about 600 miles) without any issues (1990 Polaris Indy 500). Piston wash: I need to do some reading, but the tops of the pistons had a fair amount of carbon build up on them, except where the PTO piston was molten on the exhaust side). The sled in question has 1300 miles on it, only mod being a can, but stock pipe. I'll suggest the RKTech setup (though he said he doesn't want any more power?!?!), if it were my sled I'd be all over that. The oil lines were still attatched, and I'll go through the carbs to be sure it was just running out of fuel that leaned it out.
Thanks again

There's a small crew of college kids I ride with and most didn't grow up working with tools at all, so I've been teaching what I can (don't have to buy my own beer that way...and save my friends some cash).

 

[JustinB]

IF you don't want to go the RKT way, You can buy the MBC kits. I bought one last year and I also am running an RKT big bore (awesome Power). For the price if you don't want the power you can't go wrong with the MCB and It comes with everything you need including the caged wrist pins and dual ring pistons.

http://www.mcbperformance.com/
They have awesome customer service ran into a problem last year with my kit the fixed in in two days.

 

[turbolq4]

check the carb to engine boots, they are very prone to delamination....poof goes the motor!