Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2 warped clutches in 1 day?

RMK-King

Super-Moderator
Yesterday we were riding in deep heavy powder and the primary clutch stuck shut on 2 of the 2012 pro rmks in our group, one had 200 miles on it and the other had 750. Pulled the primary spring out and worked the assembly back and forth and it is real tight and hangs up,mechanic said the shaft is warped and both need new clutches. This is the first I have heard of this,did they have a bad batch of clutches in 2012?
 
Last edited:
That just doesn't sound right, no way for the steel shaft to wharp from that small amount of heat...maybe a bushing issue? Some belt residue or other contaminant built up on the shaft?
 
Shafts don't "warp". Shafts do break but two sleds in one day is possible but not real plausible. If upon disassembly the shafts aren't broken at the first thread, then put new moveable sheave bushings in and go back riding.
 
Clutches were clean,like I said one only has 200 miles. We mentioned replacing the bushing, the Polaris mechanic said if everything slides back and forth easy it could be the bushing. But since neither slide easy at all he said the clutch is shot and will be replaced under warranty. I have been running p85 clutches from mid 80s to current and have never had one do this,much less 2 in one day. We are all kind of mind boggled about it.
 
Excessive heat in the clutches will cause the aluminum face of the clutch to expand enough to crush the bushing inward reducing clearance and causing the the movable shieve to stick.
 
Agree with the comments above.... get a "second opinion" from another mechanic.

As Rick! said... there have been some that broke the shaft... but not were deformed in some way.

Look for the common denominator in the group.

Unless you dropped it off a bridge onto concrete, you wont have a "warped" clutch shaft.

Do either of these clutches have "kits" in them?

Did you change the springs or weights?

If so, what did you use to align the cover as it was tightened down?

When you say that you

"Pulled the primary spring out and worked the assembly back and forth and it is real tight and hangs up"


did you put the cover back on and try this... or was this with just the sheave and no cover?






.
 
That a great observation, with out the cover to guide it they will stick all the time the tolerences are a bit tighter these days. We've had several bushings go bad but usually on 12's or 11's after summer sitting.
 
I would be pulling the spider and checking out that bushing. BUT, I can see from a dealer point of view, it is less time and effort to warranty the clutch and get the customer back on the snow. Perhaps it is a little problem but the time to diagnose and fix is not worth it ???
 
imo your shaft aint gonna warp, no way, no how. check your spider! my '11 pro had spider slapping the towers @ 700ish miles ( i told them it was sticking in gear here and there) a week later- brand new primary under warranty is installed (hellz ya). my '12 pro pre-season check-up for this season very similar (950 miles). my mechanic told me spider was on the verge of doing pretty much exactly that my '11 did and then cleaned and replaced parts as needed.
i know clutches shouldn't do that in the first place but case in point KEEP THEM CLEAN! just blowing them out does ok. the way my mech. says he does it is (on sled) spray it down with simple green, let it sit for a couple minutes (no more than 8-10 for sake of residue penetration), then pour a bucket of hot water over it to rinse it.
Y'all might think poo clutches suck but you should ride on a doo clutch to see what a SHOTTY clutch really is.
(p.s. don't attack what my mech. says, he only does what works in his own world- but he is pretty dang good)
 
Here’s a little more information on this topic as I was riding one of the sleds that went down.

The sled I was riding was a 12 Pro RMK with an SLP stage three kit. Sled was running great when we started off in the morning. We hit some powder, dropped into a couple draws with even better powder, still running good. A little bit later, did a couple of climbs with it working pretty good. After one pretty good climb, I noticed it was starting to fall on its face when I would let off the throttle. Thought maybe, just ingested some snow but then it got worse.

Worse meaning, when you would let off the motor would lug it down and want to die. First thought was maybe the TPS but when opening the side panel and taking a closer look, you could see the primary was not returning to fully open.

The primary was staying engaged about 1/8 to ¼ inch, hence lugging it down and causing it to stall out. Messed around with it for a while and took off but it slowly kept getting worse without even working it hard.

Needless to say, two of us turned around and headed back to the trailer. It drove okay back to the trailer as long as you kept the RPM’s and speed up and did slow down.

Made it back to the truck and tore into it. The spring, weights, rollers, shaft, spider and everything else all looked okay but it was dirty but not horrible.

Once the primary spring was out, the sheave would move back and forth fine until it got close to fully open (neutral), then it got really sticky and would stop, unless you pulled it hard, then it would go into fully open. Basically that last ¼ to 1/8 inch like before.

After talking to the mechanic, he suggested putting it back together without the spring and see how the sheave would move back and forth. His suggestion was that if it moved the same without the spring, it was probably the bushing. If it got stickier or worse, then the clutch was shot.

So, threw it back together and went to move the sheave back and forth and it was actually worse without the spring. It was stickier and harder to move back and forth without the spring.

Well, threw it back together and my trip was done as the dealership did not have a clutch on hand. :face-icon-small-sad

As far as the second sled, that one was a bone stock 2012 Pro RMK that was ridden in the same areas as the first sled as well as two other 2012 Pro’s. All the sleds were ridden by their perspective riders and ridden in the same areas (no one switched).

Along with the other Pro’s we also had an M8 and an IQ 700 RMK, which none of these had any issues.

The second sled, made it further then the first but in the end was acting up worse and by the time it made it back, you could barely ride it.

Fast forward, we made it home and dropped one of them off at the dealer. My dealer said they were going to rip into it and see what they can find. Right off the bat, they thought maybe the sheave bushing but time will tell.

I’m sure it’s heat related but why just two out of four sleds, which all four had no extra venting??? My 2012 Assault is vented up and never had an issue with that one.

Anyways, both will obviously be covered under warranty but in the end, it shortened up a good trip which really sucks!
 
I’m sure it’s heat related but why just two out of four sleds, which all four had no extra venting??? My 2012 Assault is vented up and never had an issue with that one.

Anyways, both will obviously be covered under warranty but in the end, it shortened up a good trip which really sucks!

This is a head scratcher.

FatDogX, good post and description.

This one was the sled that had 750 miles on it?

If so...
In that time this is the first time this has surfaced as a problem?

It was OK when you first installed the SLP clutch kit?




.
 
This is a head scratcher.

FatDogX, good post and description.

This one was the sled that had 750 miles on it?

If so...
In that time this is the first time this has surfaced as a problem?

It was OK when you first installed the SLP clutch kit?




.

Yes FatDogs sled was the one with 750 miles, this was the first time the problem surfaced on either sled and it just got worse the more it was rode there after. The SLP clutch kit has many previous trips on it with no issues. The sled with 200 miles is 100% stock and the clutch has never been touched whatsoever.
 
Last edited:
I heard one polaris mech over her say that if the clutch is overtorqued when istalled (over 85ft/lbs?) the shaft can get disformed when it gets hot.

Have seen this exact problem on a D8 a couple of years ago, never found out what caused it back then. But when I heard of the theory above I got it confirmed that the owner had installed the clutch torqueing it by "feel".

Not sure if this is the case at all, but it kind of makes sense to me.
 
Same clutch bolt and clutch with different taper on the 900's torqued to 96 ft lbs. Lots more heat in the primary often and not really an issue.

Anything is possible though.

Fatdog and Sledmax... did you verify if the problem is in the spider or the clutch post?

Pull the spider and on them, put the cover back on with the bolts and see if the clutch moves freely.

That will tell you if it is the shaft or the spider sliders/towers that are sticking.

MH
 
Ive had this issue arise a couple of times over the years. One of the sleds had several thousand miles on it when it occured. Clutch would bind and stall the motor. Both times it ended up being the cover bushing was binding. Replaced bushing no more issues.

I have no idea why after so many miles on it that it started to bind, it should have been worn and sloppy.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top