Since you cant buy the 2.86" pitch, 7-tooth Drivers alone from Polaris... you will need to go with the Avid drivers.
You will need the drivers, and the chaincase mod (Fastrax does this)...
De-bond and removed the chaincase, mod the case, re-install with Lords-406 adhesive press on the drivers, install the track and have some fun.
The stock gearing will be improved, IMO, with the switch to 7 tooth drivers... the clutching, you'll have to decide for yourself...but there are many options.. one of which you may already have on your sled.
For the drivers...
You can go with the Center drive 7-tooth from Avid
CLICK HERE
OR, IMO a better way to go...The "power claw" style Combo drivers... trim the rails and run an anti stab kit.
CLICK HERE
SKADI on the forums here (Emily Moreshead) was the first to do the chaincase mod in collaboration with Fastrax.
From a previous thread:
an 7-tooth, 3" pitch driver gives about .3" additional lug-tip clearance with the same track... ie.. a 2.86" pitch 2.5" lug CE track with 8t drivers will have .3" less clearance than the 3" pitch 2.5" lug CE trck with 7t drivers.
You will need to remove and modify the chaincase to allow for the 7t drivers however.... FTX has these cases on Exchange with the mod done or will do to yours on request.
You will also need to get the adhesive and gun to bond the case back onto the tunnel (important)
Skadi:Since Allen was doing my skid swap I thought I would have him do my track swap as well. I decided to go with the new Peaks track from Camoplast and it wasn't quite as simple as just a track swap for me!! Due to some of the conditions we're forced to ride in here in the beautiful Northwest we thought it best to give my sled just a little more clearance through the tunnel. The 2.5" track with the stock drivers was TIGHT!! Allen and Curt with Fastrax and Eric (Mtnhorse) thought long and hard about the BEST way to go about this. There were a few ideas and we decided to go with the cheapest first since we all know we're all watching our pocketbooks these days!! The solution was to mill out a portion of the chaincase so that smaller drivers could fit! Easy!! (well, easy for a shop like Fastrax to do!!) Curt advised Allen on the best way to do this so that it could be done quickly but in the future if I need to do this I will send it to Curt as he's getting himself fully set up to have this milled and to turn it around quickly!
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From another thread.
Also...When moving to smaller drivers... you will need to keep an eye on the track nubs rubbing on the top of the front arm of the rear suspension.
Also... even when you run new Avid Extroverts.. you need to run factory tension on the track... loose tracks don't run well as correctly tightened tracks... and dont last as long.
Wahl Brothers... $47 ... popular with the 7tooth driver crowd.
http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=19740&cat=319
"Track Carrier"
Just wondering if anybody's checked if these are rubbing.
The only place that shaft could go would be 1 3/8" in front of front of torque arm. It might be close when rails come to top. But how come no one else installs these when doing a 7 tooth driver.
Is there any other spot that it wouldn't hit susp. arms?
FF, I can see where your confusion comes from... but NO WORRIES.
It goes aft of the front suspension arm... The wheels are almost out to the edge of the shaft... maybe 3/4" in from the inside of the tunnel.
Remember that the down tubes of the front swing arm of the rear suspension taper inward towards the rails... and that there is a space between there and the tunnel.
The cross shaft of the Wahl track carrier mounts aft of there and the swing arm does not come into contact with it.
You can see in the photo where Allen Mangum of Timbersled products mounted this "Track Carrier" in his sled...The red arrow points out the button head 316SS screw used to mount the shaft in the tunnel.
ALL 7 tooth driver equipped sleds that have the stock suspension and drive train will rub on the wear bars on the arm...Weather people see it or not...It's there.
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