After having a chance to ride a 2016 TS kit I wonder how much of the great new ride is from the new track or all things combined? Would a track/Spring upgrade on a 2013 be worth it or just put that money toward a new kit?
2.5 Convex Upgrade-Worth It?
- Thread starter TillTheEnd
- Start date
R
Rush44
Well-known member
The track is a significant part of the 2016 kit for sure, but there is no doubt that the new suspension gets up on the snow better. I'd say those two things combined are responsible for the vast bulk of the 2016 performance bump over 2015. Of course the TSS is nice, but it has to be setup right to make the climbing and deeper snow performance better.
If I had a 2015 or older kit I'd probably do the track upgrade and the TSS.
If I had a 2015 or older kit I'd probably do the track upgrade and the TSS.
I think the upgrades would be money well spent. We have upgraded a few kits and I always get a call back after the first ride with "Wow, what a difference!!".
Thats a tough choice since the upgrade cost is similar to just getting a newer kit. More or less just looking at the budgeting and what makes sense to you, if your planning on riding lots more in the future, I would point you at a newer kit, but if you don't ride quite as much, then just upgrading and saving a few bucks would be the ticket. I love pushing these things to the limits so there is still a gap between a fully updated 13 kit vs a 16, but if your more of a casual rider, most likely wouldn't notice the little gaps.
Track goes that much better in the deep and makes the trail a world of difference. TSS is also such an impressive upgrade especially if you have any desire to jump, pound the whoops or race the trail.
When you say "set-up right" what exactly do you mean? I have a 2016 ST with TSS and have ridden it 4 days. Two days with settled snow and a crust and two days with 2-3ft of powder.....
Climbing performance was significantly better on the settled, crusty snow. What should I do to make it perform better in the deep snow???
I have the TSS and its my understanding it will go with me to a newer kit at least up to a 16... It was a huge improvement on my 13 but the dirt bike "feel" of the 16 was undeniable. I also should say I have all the current upgrades except the flex arm in mine. I race these things all spring/summer/fall on dirt so I tend to ride it harder than some. Just rather wrap a new track for $800 than buy a new one and wait to sell this one with twice the cash tied up....
Slightly stiffer so it mimics the performance of a fixed strut more to keep the bike tall and up out of the snow. I tend to just run mine about 20% stiffer then the reccomended pressures all the time.
go deep snow
the issue with going good in deep or soft snow is making sure that there is pressure on the back of your track while you ride.
If you have the kit on a flat concrete floor check to make sure you have the back set of track paddles on the floor and they have some pressure on them...............fact is for deep snow more pressure on the back of the track and slightly picking the first set of paddles will make a difference is how your bike performs in the deeper loose snow.
So on an ideal 3rd shock system, best is a slightly over long shock that settles into the ideal length with you on the bike with gear..............or you will give up some deep snow performance. 1st 3 rd shock system I built I couldn't get a long enough shock / strut length and it was not good out in the trees.........way bad. Stopped and put my old strut back in..........oh wow huge difference, sent me back to the drawing board.
the issue with going good in deep or soft snow is making sure that there is pressure on the back of your track while you ride.
If you have the kit on a flat concrete floor check to make sure you have the back set of track paddles on the floor and they have some pressure on them...............fact is for deep snow more pressure on the back of the track and slightly picking the first set of paddles will make a difference is how your bike performs in the deeper loose snow.
So on an ideal 3rd shock system, best is a slightly over long shock that settles into the ideal length with you on the bike with gear..............or you will give up some deep snow performance. 1st 3 rd shock system I built I couldn't get a long enough shock / strut length and it was not good out in the trees.........way bad. Stopped and put my old strut back in..........oh wow huge difference, sent me back to the drawing board.
C
Corban_White
Well-known member
I have found this with my 3rd shock setup. The limiter strap is a tad long (especially with 400psi in the shock) but when I sit on the bike geared up it sags just enough. It is still a bit longer than the strut rod but only while i'm sitting still, and I don't do that much! I have been out in chest deep powder with no performance loss from the strut rod, in fact, I think it works better in the powder and on the trail. The third shock has only improved the bike IMO.
So I keep looking at options and heard from a few guys that the '16 ST just get on top of the snow better. In the past the 137 was needed by a bigger guy just to stay on top of the snow. Is this still the case with the 16/17 new suspension geometry, or does the new ST work well enough to offset heavier riders? Or is this all in the convex track? Also I am looking at some used '16 SX 137 which appear to have the older side plates, do they have a similar attack angle ect as my '13? Or do they have the same improved float characteristics?
Not sure about those specifics, but I have an '16 sx120, with a relatively light bike, and a 210 lb rider, got up and moved in the deep powder really well.
Buy a lt if u ride in powder up hills
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