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'15 vs '14 Jackshaft comparison pics

CO 2.0

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The '15 shaft on the chaincase end is a lot better thought out. Less parts and easy snap rings on everything. I swapped all the '15 stuff needed over to my '14 for under $100. I used the chaincase bearing from my '15 since I'm putting a belt drive on that one. If anyone wants to buy a brand new '14 shaft for cheap let me know. Got it off warranty.



 
Is the shaft larger on the clutch end with a larger radius where the shaft diameter changes?

Now the question for me is: Do I want to swap out my jackshaft before I go pick up my belt drive kit at the end of the month?
 
I'll measure that end when I stop back home sometime today. The middle of the shaft is the same diameter. And the chaincase end is obviously much thicker on the '15 and has less sharp tapers on it. It's simple on that end too. Seal, bearing, washer, snap ring, another snap ring, gear, snap ring. That's it.
 
Boondocker,

Diameter is the same on the clutch side behind the splines and the section going through the bearing
 
I wouldn't trust a cat jackshaft for anything. Mine broke right where it necks up on the clutch side. I installed a turbie shaft.

2014-09-19 16.10.21.jpg
 
Is the shaft larger on the clutch end with a larger radius where the shaft diameter changes?

Now the question for me is: Do I want to swap out my jackshaft before I go pick up my belt drive kit at the end of the month?
Better make that decision before you order the kit.
 
Better make that decision before you order the kit.

I already have my name on one. Tom's shop is just down the road from my house so I can make the change pretty easily since I don't have to ship it across the country haha. It's just a matter of which style of top pulley he hands me.
 
Boondocker,

Diameter is the same on the clutch side behind the splines and the section going through the bearing

Thanks for measuring that. From the picture, the radius where the shaft changes diameter before going through the bearing looks to be larger on the new shaft. An increase in the radius lowers the stress concentration there quite a bit and will make the shaft less prone to failure without actually increasing the shaft diameter. This is the point where people have been snapping them off, correct?
 
If they didn't change the rocwell it will all mean nothing, it will just snap just outside the bearing on the chain case side and still snap on the PTO side, I have sold many many shafts and it seams that you mountain guys break them more on the PTO side to where the trail guys break them on the chain case side, as you can see the middle diameter is still to small and will allow the flex witch does not help the clutches to stay aligned because of the bowing of the middle section, It may be a tad better but they will never cut it either in the long run.
Look at the chain case side picture, the bevel after the spline is even bigger than the old design, that's the weak point now
 
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Anyone that takes the time to switch jackshafts and just puts another cat one in is wasting their time. Sure makes a mess when it comes undone.

Screenshot_2014-09-24-14-03-00.jpg Screenshot_2014-09-24-14-02-57.jpg Screenshot_2014-09-24-14-02-47.jpg Screenshot_2014-09-24-14-02-51.jpg
 
Mine broke behind the bearing. My secondary was fine as I was able to stop quick enough. How much was the shaft you put in?
 
300$ if you look at the pic it had an obvious flaw in it. So I don't trust cats manufacturing process

It looks like a standard cyclic loading shaft failure to me. The shaft started cracking on the left side (looking at the end of the shaft straight on), and started propagating across a ways before the crack made its way all the way around the shaft. That defined oval area is just the last part that finally broke off all at once. No definite flaw, just over stressed for the application.
 
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