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15 Freeride 154 Turbo build progress

bmiller1985

Active member
Lifetime Membership
well I thought I would post some pics of the build i'm doing so far. As of now the turbo is in (still need a jumper cable to power the fuel control box because the 15 has changed), TKI belt drive is in, and the adjustable BRP riser.

As of now I've got the Ice Age rails, racewerx bumpers, and possibly Skiz ARC left to install

Also, I know my garage is a mess, I got mad after I saw the pics and bought a bunch of new shelves, work benches etc to fix the problem. But, check them out, enjoy, and if you guys see anything that I could do to help the project or sled feel free to let me know!

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Which fuel controller did you go with?

just the dobec that came with it, they have a box that auto adjusts of the stock sensors that comes out in December. i'm going to go with that one when it comes out. All in all i'm really happy with the kit. only problem I had was a few changes on the 15 models they didn't know about, Jim at Silber has been great to work with and has been a big help making it all work
 
ski-doo oem rear foot rest kit. happen to have a like new pair:

http://www.scottbiltracing.us/4-sale.html

a must have to be able to foot steer when pulling turbo wheelies...$50 shipped

in all seriousness sick looking build. very cool.

jeff

I was kicking around the idea, I just looked at them on your website, i'll order them in the next few minutes from you. the build has a ways to go, still have ice age bombers and bogeys to go on yet, along with a few more vents to cover the holes, and to top it off some custom racewerx bumpers. Still really debating a wrap though, I really like the way the sled looks.
 
I am going to be doing the same turbo install right away on my 15 T3. Could you give me a head start and let me know what you ran into that you had to fix. Any info would be great thanks.
 
Pull your gas tank off and get it out of the way. working around it makes 10x more work then trying to do it on the sled.

put the check valves in the rave lines before turbo is on.

take coolant lines off turbo and hook them up ahead of time. sucks trying to work behind the turbo.

Its a really easy kit, just small order of operations things saves a guy from putting things in his own way!
 
I am going to be doing the same turbo install right away on my 15 T3. Could you give me a head start and let me know what you ran into that you had to fix. Any info would be great thanks.

everything the guy above said, also make sure they send you the jumper wire for the power source.

Remove the exhaust, y-pipe can stay on, but leave the pipe out until the end.

Make sure you don't have anything routed between the overstructure and hood, made that mistake and it was annoying to re-route.

Take time routing the fuel lines, it's easy to take the shortest route, but then you have excess line when it comes to connect to the ecu.

Also, I had my brother machine some new bar clamps to remove the mtn strap so it would clean up the gauge mount and make it sit better. I mounted mine in front of the bars and you can see them fine without the strap. (if that's something you would be interested in let me know and I can see what he would charge for a set, they didn't take him long in the cnc.

The new sled doesn't have the 12v power source where it used to be so you have to put a jumper in with the 12v source that the oil pump hooks into. Once you understand how it works it gets easier, the directions are kind of overwhelming at first. Remember the short line for the coil is on the closest coil for coil 1, and make sure you match the secondary injector 1 to coil 1, it doesn't say that in the directions but that was an issue I ran into.

Also, the directions show a tpms plug, it's not on the harness anymore. Lay the harness on the ground, figure out which plug is which, put masking tape near each end with a tail to write on and label them, wish I would have done it the first time.

James at Silber is a huge help, i'm sure he's thoroughly annoyed by me for all the questions I had for him but he never showed it and even helped me late in the day after hours.

What altitude are you running at? what boost do you want to run?

I started at the pre set 5psi and I was wanting more. don't get me wrong, it's fast as sh*t compared to my 14 137 freeride, but i'm going to 10psi to see if it's rideable, and mainly for the giggle factor.

Also, for tuning, read the description on what each light setting is, then read them again, then read them again. knowing what each one is while you're on the sled for tuning makes a big difference. it comes pretty well set up but may need some fine tuning, James at Silber is again a great resource for this.

Any other questions let me know!
 
What fuel are you running at what boost levels?

Thanks.

i'm mainly running sea level (central Wisconsin wheelies in the field and lake, and off trail in the UP), and my goal is to run 7-10 psi. You should be safe running a 50/50 av gas (100 octane aviation fuel) and non-ethanol premium running the stock 5 psi boost. I'm personally running 100% av gas, and going to leave it at 5 psi for a base and attempt to add a boost controller to adjust from 5psi at a minimum and cranked all the way up would be 10 psi. If you do run the 5 pounds from the factory and 100% av gas the sled will kind of fall on it's face on the bottom end a little more than the ones mixed with av and premium, but it's a lot safer running a little higher mixture of av gas to avoid detonation.

from silber if I remember correctly these are the sea level fuel recomendations:

3-5 psi 30% race gas
5-7 psi 50% race gas
7-10 psi 70% race gas
10-13 psi 100% race gas

you can also go to www.silberturbos.com and download the instruction manual and the last page or two goes over all of the fuel and altitude recommendations.
 
nice work! i ran 100% av at 6psi all last yr w no issues on bottom end. ill run 10psi this yr on straight av. thats also 6-10k elevation so u can probly subtract 2-3 psi atmospheric pressure in my ap so itd be more like 3psi boost at ur elevation. i like av because its consistant and cheaper unlike race gas who some guy might have had sitting for a long time. i would think race gas barrels would have a date on them somewhere though. still too expensive for 1500 mountain km/yr though.
 
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