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14 Oil pump delete.

1

1rarel78

Well-known member
Gonna do my delete 2morrow or Friday. Any advice? The directions r terrible. I saw on Arctic cat chat that you don't have to remove the case lube hose. Think he just put a grease fitting on the end of the hose and filled it up? Jeff at BDX sent me a guide to drill a hole to access the banjo,but it makes no sense to me.
 
Do you use the drill hole guide so you dont have to pull the skid plate? How much weight do you save if you put their chaincase plate on? Not counting oil weight(I only fill my oil to the window).
 
Here is what I did. I used one of the one way check valves from the oil system and the main oil line from the tank to the factory oil pump. Cut just the tip off the large end of the check valve and remove the spring and check valve from inside. Install the small end of the modified check valve into the oil line going to the water pump/oil pump drive center section under the motor. (See photo). The large oil hose fits perfectly over the large end of the check valve. Use factory clamps. attach to upper frame rail and cap the end. Locate the end of the oil line in an area that is easy to reach, as you will use this hose to add oil ever so often.

Used with BDK oil delete kit.


IMG_8410.jpg
 
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I like that idea. How often do you have to add oil? Does the BDX instructions say to leave the bottom banjo or just put a bolt in it?
 
I like that idea. How often do you have to add oil? Does the BDX instructions say to leave the bottom banjo or just put a bolt in it?

Unfortunately, snow levels, or the lack-there-of, in our area has not allowed me much riding. My plan is two or three times a year...every 300 miles or so. I oiled and greased the shaft, per instructions prior to adding the BDX end cap. BDX sends a threaded plug to place in the bottom of the crankcase. Like what I did better.

May be overkill, but I'm okay with that.
 
Oil delete seems to be a very common mod on these proclimbs and I'm not sure I totally understand why?
Weight savings ok, (the container weight) but the oil is now taking the space in your gas tank.
Controlling the mix (40:1 using syn) vs whatever the pump is doing from the factory (32:1?)
Are these the ONLY 2 reasons so many are doing this mod or is there something else I'm missing and could that please be explained?
Considering oil delete myself.
Thanks
 
Oil delete seems to be a very common mod on these proclimbs and I'm not sure I totally understand why?
Weight savings ok, (the container weight) but the oil is now taking the space in your gas tank.
Controlling the mix (40:1 using syn) vs whatever the pump is doing from the factory (32:1?)
Are these the ONLY 2 reasons so many are doing this mod or is there something else I'm missing and could that please be explained?
Considering oil delete myself.
Thanks

the oil in the tank is reducing the weight of the gas that the volume of oil is taking up..not to mention usually at least three litres would be in oil tank and only max one litre in main tank..

makes for more room to work and the mixed gas is a constant where the auto seems to be rich on bottom etc etc..

it just seems much cleaner and crisper mixed..

jmo
 
I just did my 12 and a buddies 13. I left the banjo bolt in the bottom of the case and added a small hose that extends to the exhaust side of the sled. Then just use a needle on a grease zerc to squirt a few pumps in every so often.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gonna do my delete 2morrow or Friday. Any advice? The directions r terrible. I saw on Arctic cat chat that you don't have to remove the case lube hose. Think he just put a grease fitting on the end of the hose and filled it up? Jeff at BDX sent me a guide to drill a hole to access the banjo,but it makes no sense to me.

When I wrote that it was on a 2012. The 13+ now has easier access. The 13+ allows you to install a zerk right in without having to have more line and junctions wich adds risk imo.

Drilling the bottom panel and putting in a plug like you would find in the bottom of an M series air plenum allows you easy access and a nicely sealed setup.




Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
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Oil delete seems to be a very common mod on these proclimbs and I'm not sure I totally understand why?
Weight savings ok, (the container weight) but the oil is now taking the space in your gas tank.
Controlling the mix (40:1 using syn) vs whatever the pump is doing from the factory (32:1?)
Are these the ONLY 2 reasons so many are doing this mod or is there something else I'm missing and could that please be explained?
Considering oil delete myself.
Thanks

Climbs faster and attracts the ladies more. "You have oil delete?!" Happens all the time.
 
Where do you drill the hole? The Template Jeff sent me from BDX makes no sense to me. Think u have to be a rocket scientist to read it. Don't really want to drill out the 16 rivets. Like the idea of leaving the banjo on the bottom of the engine. Why do u even have to add grease to the lower case . BDX wants you to just install a bolt to plug up the hole. BTW HAPPY NEW YEAR!
 
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if you drill the hole, it would be right under the banjo fitting.

zerkz.jpg


Remove the bolt on banjo, add zerk or bolt.. plug hole.


If you want to run with just oil... go for it, I'm not a fan, and I've seen a few failures otherwise. Having never seen a failure with grease, I'm going to stick with my opinion that this is far & away the best way to do it, and it's EASY/ cheap. zerk is $.60, and if you don't already have grease in a gun, you shouldn't own a sled. :D Grease sticks around, and will mix with premix that comes in & thin out... but it will stay there a long time. The thickness means that it's not going to drip out a tiny hole, or around the bolt if you happen to have a slightly poor seal... it's just insurance.
 
Sweet, I,ve got at least 1. Did not realize the throttle bodies had coolant running through them.
 
OK. The first thing you do,is find someone with small hands to do this for you!! Then,drain the f'n oil tank!! I did the tank last,and was tired and frustrated. Did not think twice about this,no way they would not separate the tank from the chaincase. Took me an hour to clean up the giant mess!!! My hands and lower arms are hamburger. What a pain in the ***. Sure I could do the next 1 in half the time though. Thanks for the help guys.
 
OK. The first thing you do,is find someone with small hands to do this for you!! Then,drain the f'n oil tank!! I did the tank last,and was tired and frustrated. Did not think twice about this,no way they would not separate the tank from the chaincase. Took me an hour to clean up the giant mess!!! My hands and lower arms are hamburger. What a pain in the ***. Sure I could do the next 1 in half the time though. Thanks for the help guys.

You didn't read that writeup I did very closely did you ;)

Haha! at least you're done :D
 
if you drill the hole, it would be right under the banjo fitting.

zerkz.jpg


Remove the bolt on banjo, add zerk or bolt.. plug hole.


If you want to run with just oil... go for it, I'm not a fan, and I've seen a few failures otherwise. Having never seen a failure with grease, I'm going to stick with my opinion that this is far & away the best way to do it, and it's EASY/ cheap. zerk is $.60, and if you don't already have grease in a gun, you shouldn't own a sled. :D Grease sticks around, and will mix with premix that comes in & thin out... but it will stay there a long time. The thickness means that it's not going to drip out a tiny hole, or around the bolt if you happen to have a slightly poor seal... it's just insurance.


ROFLMAO! I had a ZRT 800 back in the day, and Cat didn't put in any way to lube the countershaft so as soon as original lube was gone it blew up. So we would put a grease fitting in the case and a grease zerk almost looked like pic above. It was SOOOOO REDNECK to get out a grease gun so you could ride and I made up my mind I was never doing that again.

Oil pump will do nicely for me!




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Know this has been talked about before 32/1 or 40/1 premix ratio? How often should I grease the zerk in case? Stock sled.
 
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