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1100T HCR First Ride Impressions

KSH

Steering Wheel Holder
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
1100T HCR first ride, first trip 549 miles
These are my observations

This sled is a Billy goat.
With The snow conditions in West, it wasn’t if you could climb it. The question was how high and fast you wanted to climb.

Rear Suspension
I have it set-up like my 07 with the Burandt kit and like it.
Barely tight front shock and 125 in rear.

Front Bumper
I built my own and it has already paid for it's self.
If I had left the stock one on it would have been destroyed and might have damaged my hood when I broke my TieRod and bent the a-arm.
950.jpg


Track
I miss my 2.5 Camo Xtreme.

Brake
I don’t know if the brake has no feed back or if it’s that the powderclaw has no braking ability.

Oil Leakage
I had two incidents with leakage, the first was with the sled laid on the clutch side and the second is the picture further down.
This has convinced me that a roll over valve is mandatory.

Skis
Perfect on the trail when aligned, Just ok after some encounters with trees.
We had a crust, so if the front end broke through it was a handful, but under power they seemed to work just fine.
I will be getting a set of 8” SlyDog’s

Side panels/ vents
I had originally ordered Moddsrods vents to install, but bought the cat side panel set.
The sled needs that much ventilation , but steam from a overheat on clutch side and being pushed onto stock can has put holes on both sides
I will be installing the vent kit over the cats fog skin vents to cover the holes and stiffen the sides.

Can
I had built my own can and with it wrapped with header wrap it ran cooler and was louder, just not annoying.
Stock can, nice and quiet but very hot and heavy.

HCR Cooling
It overheated three times and was because the scratchers were not down, operator error.
But my only warning was the surging, I had no warning lights but they work on cold start-up and when it's too late.

Front end and Turning Radius

For me it seemed hard to pull over at times.
And because it corners excellent like a trail sled and I need to replace an a-arm.
I will be installing the 38" set. I want a mountain sled not a trail sled.
It does need more turning radius in my opinion.


The weight, DAMN

This thing makes my 07 M1000 feel like a 440
I have made this maneuver many times with my 1000 , bump the throttle hop down to the next ledge
But this time I did not bump it hard enough to spool the turbo and it just dived like a kamikaze.
008-6-1.jpg

0207121309a-1.jpg



These pictures were taken by my Dealer and he said they would be held against me for future warranty claims. He says the tree is obviously not stock :face-icon-small-hap


I wanted a 800, but my dealer could not get me one. For the money I will have in this sled to get it set-up for me. I could have had one heck of a modded out 800.
Am I impressed with the sled, NO. But I’m not unhappy with it.
I will spend another grand getting it set-up for me, then I will hope it will impress me.
 
Last edited:
KSH:

Once you get wider skis, the diving is reduced alot and you have better control in all conditions........

This sled takes a while to get used to.........

Like you, I have almost 500 miles on the sled (All powder miles)

I like it more and more every time I ride it. Going from a two stroker to a four stroker is a learning process.

There are times where this sled is very impressive, and times where it falls on its face. All I know is, those times where the sled falls on its face are getting fewer and the impressive times are getting greater.

Frankly I think it is seat time. I am going down a learning curve that I dont even know I am on...... More and more grins with every ride, and less and less frowns with every ride.......

I especially agree with your quote:

"This sled is a Billy goat.
With The snow conditions in West, it wasn’t if you could climb it. The question was how high and fast you wanted to climb."


"
 
Well, I'm in a better mood about the sled.
I stripped off all the plastic's yesterday to look for any issues.
Other than needing to install some real hose clamps, I could not find no real issues.
My 38" a-arms should be in Monday.
I just need to get the roll-over kit and ski's ordered.

This was the only future problem I found, another day and it would have came off.
16-1.jpg
 
I haven't had any problems with my sled yet but with all these threads about low rpms due to loose hose connections, I think i should give the sled a full look over and check all clamps in my warm shop before my next trip out. Poking around under the hood in -20C looking for a loose hose wouldn't be ideal.
 
Well, I'm in a better mood about the sled.
I stripped off all the plastic's yesterday to look for any issues.
Other than needing to install some real hose clamps, I could not find no real issues.
My 38" a-arms should be in Monday.
I just need to get the roll-over kit and ski's ordered.

This was the only future problem I found, another day and it would have came off.
16-1.jpg

There has been alot of speculation over on HCS on how the hoses need to go on the BOV Selenoid there. Yours is the same as the fiche. Mine is opposite and I think everyones are different. Either way after trying to hook mine up like yours i find that the bottom hose ends up having to make a tight bend.

Also I have a couple different styles of clamps coming tommorrow to try. Small worm drive ones and crimp ones. Have to see what is best. It is to bad that both the Waste gate control valve and the bov control valve nipples done hav
 
Well, I'm in a better mood about the sled.
I stripped off all the plastic's yesterday to look for any issues.
Other than needing to install some real hose clamps, I could not find no real issues.
My 38" a-arms should be in Monday.
I just need to get the roll-over kit and ski's ordered.

This was the only future problem I found, another day and it would have came off.
16-1.jpg

It is to bad the Wastegate control valve and the BOV control valve dont have barbs on the nipples. Alot of guys saying to use a dab of super glue.

I have a couple different styles of clamps coming tommorrow to try. Small worm drive and full circle crimp style. We will see what works the best.
 
It is to bad the Wastegate control valve and the BOV control valve dont have barbs on the nipples. Alot of guys saying to use a dab of super glue.

I have a couple different styles of clamps coming tommorrow to try. Small worm drive and full circle crimp style. We will see what works the best.

If you take a sharp edge, you can scratch some barbs in, it does not take much. Then a good clamp will hold it.

Super gluing it will make it a bugger to work on it later.
 
If you take a sharp edge, you can scratch some barbs in, it does not take much. Then a good clamp will hold it.

Super gluing it will make it a bugger to work on it later.

Good idea! The metal nipple may be a bit harder to do this on though.
 
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