1100t Chaincase Nut

[Turbo11T]

I switched the track out on my 11t yesterday only to find a couple things.

1. the nut on the jackshaft doesn't seem to be tight at all. I don't know if it is suppose to be on the 11t?

2. Belt had just started to pull a cord.

3. The 11t with the oil tank on the chaincase cover is crappy to work on.

4. Auto tensioner seemed to be loose. Chain looks good though still.


So I guess here is my main question. About the jackshaft nut. It is not tight.
I realize that the tcl on the 11t is a different animal but I would think that it should be at least more snug.

Thoughts?

 

[RACINSTATION]

Both the 800 and the 1100 have loose nuts. They only had the service bulletin on the 800. You need to make sure it is set at 51 ft/lbs of torque and that the lock tab is secure so it won't loosen up again.

 

[Turbo11T]

Both the 800 and the 1100 have loose nuts. They only had the service bulletin on the 800. You need to make sure it is set at 51 ft/lbs of torque and that the lock tab is secure so it won't loosen up again.

Sounds good I was just looking at the race manual. Any type of tool that is already made to tighten that nut that is readily available? I can build one I just would rather not go to that much work.

 

[nosajlleb]

I'm sure Cat sells one for about 40 bucks. Looked into it, either buy there socket or use the screwdriver/hammer technique and guess at the torque. What track you goin with?

 

[Turbo11T]

I'm sure Cat sells one for about 40 bucks. Looked into it, either buy there socket or use the screwdriver/hammer technique and guess at the torque. What track you goin with?

I can machine a socket to work.

I am going with a 156 2.5 camo extreme. Would love to get a 156 3" but I need to be able to ride the sled here in mn if it ever snows as well. The 2.5 is pushing it. If the track was easier to change like my rev was I would put a cut down attack 20 on for MN riding and get a 3 incher for out west but It isn't that fun changing the track on the proclimb.

I am excited about a bigger lug moving more snow. The PC may have a place that it really shines I just don't know that it is on a 640lb sled.

 

[Turbo11T]

Ok another question. What was cat thinking with double chain? I really like having reverse. . . But really. Between the actuator, shift fork, another set of gears and chain this is probally 5lbs. Then you have some of that spinning all the time? Dumb. I want to remove it but I just don't know yet if I want to go without reverse? I am not convinced that the new "fix" will fix the reverse issues either.

 

[nosajlleb]

any cracks in that chain or does it look like a metallic shaving sprinkler head went off in there?

 

[catf1000s/p]

51lbs is to much, it will put to much load on that bearing, have a friend turn the jackshaft while using a screw driver with a hammer to do it, if you want to, crank it to 51lbs and you can tell by spinning the shaft from the secondary side, there is a washer update like the 2 strokes coming out for that sled, cat just don't want to do it until the new reverse goes in, I'm telling you not to do 51 ft lbs, 3950 miles on just a screw driver deal and still tight. cat also went down to 37 ft lbs for that nut and that puts to much load on the bearing.

good luck
Belanger Racing
catf1000s/p
Frank

 

[Turbo11T]

any cracks in that chain or does it look like a metallic shaving sprinkler head went off in there?

I have not looked the chain over that close yet. The oil had a little mettalic in it. Not as much as I have seen before on other sleds though.

 

[nosajlleb]

haven't torn into mine yet. Before leaving Utah I held her WFO for about three miles just to see if it would blow, never did. My sled was not a belt blower and both belts I used look like they have a slight glaze, but had to unplug reverse sensor and noticed metal shavings all the way up in the vent tube. Alotta people have noticed small cracks near the outside of the links looks almost like a hairline crack.