'11 Pro RMK 800 - Intermittent Cut-out Issue
- Thread starter Merlin
- Start date
Have you had the sled out this year yet to verify proper runnability?
Murph's post (not trying to swell his already swollen head) lends a lot of merit. These sleds are hard on plug wires and boots. This is what it really sounds like is/was happening. I've used the SLP replacements. Keep a set in the truck and on trips.
Even though you've replaced injectors, I wouldn't throw this out as a possible cause. The injector placement in this motor lends the injector to developing carbon deposits. Ultrasonic cleaning by a shop like Dr. Injector is what I used to do but I started using a bottle of Chevron Techron added to a fresh tank of fuel and have solved 4-5 sleds with that trick. Used to use it all of the time for engine runnability issues in the automotive industry before I made a career change.
Highly Rec a BR9EYA plug.
Finding wire problems in the TPS connector requires taking the connector apart. Not saying your test wasn't diligent but these can be difficult to replicate in the shop (wiggle test)
Murph's post (not trying to swell his already swollen head) lends a lot of merit. These sleds are hard on plug wires and boots. This is what it really sounds like is/was happening. I've used the SLP replacements. Keep a set in the truck and on trips.
Even though you've replaced injectors, I wouldn't throw this out as a possible cause. The injector placement in this motor lends the injector to developing carbon deposits. Ultrasonic cleaning by a shop like Dr. Injector is what I used to do but I started using a bottle of Chevron Techron added to a fresh tank of fuel and have solved 4-5 sleds with that trick. Used to use it all of the time for engine runnability issues in the automotive industry before I made a career change.
Highly Rec a BR9EYA plug.
Finding wire problems in the TPS connector requires taking the connector apart. Not saying your test wasn't diligent but these can be difficult to replicate in the shop (wiggle test)
Thanks for the info. gents,
I haven't rode it yet this year but I wanted to look into the issue before the first trip. Call me a pessimist but I'm not much of a believer in things healing themselves over the summer. LOL
TRS had suggested checking the plug wires as well. The plugs wires were routed & tied up pretty good & I had already looked at them while I was doing EV maintenance but I took a closer look anyway & everything looked OK. No signs of abrasion, corrosion, or arcing. I didn't take them apart but for the time it takes I'll probably just cut back a bit & redo the connections. Then when it's apart I can do the individual resistance checks on the plug caps, wires, & coil secondary circuits.
I'll also keep the Techron & BR9EYA in mind.
Glen
I haven't rode it yet this year but I wanted to look into the issue before the first trip. Call me a pessimist but I'm not much of a believer in things healing themselves over the summer. LOL
TRS had suggested checking the plug wires as well. The plugs wires were routed & tied up pretty good & I had already looked at them while I was doing EV maintenance but I took a closer look anyway & everything looked OK. No signs of abrasion, corrosion, or arcing. I didn't take them apart but for the time it takes I'll probably just cut back a bit & redo the connections. Then when it's apart I can do the individual resistance checks on the plug caps, wires, & coil secondary circuits.
I'll also keep the Techron & BR9EYA in mind.
Glen
So I just had almost the same exact issue with about the same setup as you and I replaces everything, and it finally came down to my power commander was junk, was sticking my pto side injector wide open:
Thanks for the info. & Merry Xmas!
Did your machine log any injector related codes?
Did you do any testing to confirm that the PCV was faulty or did you just swap it out?
Did your machine log any injector related codes?
Did you do any testing to confirm that the PCV was faulty or did you just swap it out?
No codes
I have the same problem on my 2012. Do you find that it happens more often whe it's warm out? Mine is so bad when it's above my guess 32f out that you can't hardly even ride it. If it's cold out I have very few problems other than if you sit for a short time and let it soak up heat. It will clear up then if you start riding it in the cold.
Orcajo, have you checked your tps settings? What color injectors do you have?
Earthad58, it has the yellow injectors. I have not checked the TPS. If the TPS is off will it cut out when it's warm? My riding partner has the same sled but a 2011. His does the same thing when it's warmer out. Mine acts up before his tho, I just contribute it to I might ride a little harder than he does.
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply.
Ambient was above 32F when mine was acting up this past spring. I didn't have an opportunity to ride it during colder temps. to see if anything changed.
Merlin, just to be clear. My sled is stock other than the MBRP can on it. I have been having this problem for two years now. I do believe that it is temperature related, but what is doing it has me puzzled. I have been out 4 times this year and the last time out gave me the problems. The only thing different was the warmer temperatures.
Do you think it could be fuel vapor locking? I have packed snow down by the fuel rail and that seems to help.
Thanks for your help!
Do you think it could be fuel vapor locking? I have packed snow down by the fuel rail and that seems to help.
Thanks for your help!
I haven't had any experience with these machines & fuel vapor locking issues.
Being that the fuel is constantly circulating through the rail and back to tank I don't know how vapor could build up. Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak & the flow is too low or the pump is somehow aerating?
Either way the only thing I could suggest is to monitor fuel pressure while you're riding & the machine is acting up.
Being that the fuel is constantly circulating through the rail and back to tank I don't know how vapor could build up. Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak & the flow is too low or the pump is somehow aerating?
Either way the only thing I could suggest is to monitor fuel pressure while you're riding & the machine is acting up.
Issue Solved(Faulty ECU Connector Terminals)
Hello,
Just an update on the intermittent cut-out issue I was having with my '11 Pro RMK 800.
Faulty terminals in the 34 pin ECU wiring connector were to blame. Specifically, the terminals for the TSS circuit.
I could duplicate the intermittent cut out issues I was having last spring by wiggling 34 pin ECU connector with the engine running & track off the ground. Engine RPM would drop instantly to just under clutch engagement speed(symptomatic of faulty TSS / circuit) During more testing / wiggling I found the machine would occasionally not respond to any of the hard kill inputs(key switch, kill switch, or tether) - It would just keep running.
Upon replacing the terminals in the ECU connector for the TSS input, hard kill input, & the shared sensor common ground, all of the problems disappeared.
After the repairs I took the machine to forum member Rhodsie for scanning. There were 8 counts of P1555 "Throttle Release Switch Signal Circuit Short to Voltage" which roughly coincides with the # of hiccups I had while riding last spring & and the failures I induced by wiggling the ECU connector in my shop.
For those who are interested, the ECU connectors are built by JAE, model MX23A. I purchased the replacement sockets / terminals from Digi-Key P/N 670-1682-1-ND. Just an option other than buying a complete harness from P.I.
After reading multiple posts of elusive electrical gremlins other forum members have been chasing I think it would be wise to always consider the ECU connections in the troubleshooting equation as the style of connector used on these machines(at least the '11 models) leaves a lot to be desired IMO.
Thanks again to all who responded with suggestions & advice. Hopefully this helps someone prevent a few grey hairs down the road. LOL
Hello,
Just an update on the intermittent cut-out issue I was having with my '11 Pro RMK 800.
Faulty terminals in the 34 pin ECU wiring connector were to blame. Specifically, the terminals for the TSS circuit.
I could duplicate the intermittent cut out issues I was having last spring by wiggling 34 pin ECU connector with the engine running & track off the ground. Engine RPM would drop instantly to just under clutch engagement speed(symptomatic of faulty TSS / circuit) During more testing / wiggling I found the machine would occasionally not respond to any of the hard kill inputs(key switch, kill switch, or tether) - It would just keep running.
Upon replacing the terminals in the ECU connector for the TSS input, hard kill input, & the shared sensor common ground, all of the problems disappeared.
After the repairs I took the machine to forum member Rhodsie for scanning. There were 8 counts of P1555 "Throttle Release Switch Signal Circuit Short to Voltage" which roughly coincides with the # of hiccups I had while riding last spring & and the failures I induced by wiggling the ECU connector in my shop.
For those who are interested, the ECU connectors are built by JAE, model MX23A. I purchased the replacement sockets / terminals from Digi-Key P/N 670-1682-1-ND. Just an option other than buying a complete harness from P.I.
After reading multiple posts of elusive electrical gremlins other forum members have been chasing I think it would be wise to always consider the ECU connections in the troubleshooting equation as the style of connector used on these machines(at least the '11 models) leaves a lot to be desired IMO.
Thanks again to all who responded with suggestions & advice. Hopefully this helps someone prevent a few grey hairs down the road. LOL
Amen brother...glad to see you got it fixed. Just goes to show we are all pi$$ing in the wind with these sleds when it comes to giving advice for runnability problems.
You are correct about the wiring, connectors, entire electrical system "leaving a lot to be desired."
Polaris builds the best out of the box handling sled. But that's where it ends. And of course, the 11's were the worst with this kind of issue.
The quality of the electrical system leaves ALOT to be desired going back to the first EFI Polaris, the 900.
It's too bad because the Pro and Axys could be so much better with just a little better quality from the factory.
You are correct about the wiring, connectors, entire electrical system "leaving a lot to be desired."
Polaris builds the best out of the box handling sled. But that's where it ends. And of course, the 11's were the worst with this kind of issue.
The quality of the electrical system leaves ALOT to be desired going back to the first EFI Polaris, the 900.
It's too bad because the Pro and Axys could be so much better with just a little better quality from the factory.
Thanks Dave,
I have to concede that my troubleshooting was flawed the from the start as I should've had it scanned before I touched anything. No tech. can efficiently troubleshoot any type of machine that runs an ECU without at least retrieving the fault codes first.
It'd be nice if someone in the aftermarket would provide an affordable scan tool or even just a simple code retriever.
D.W. is too spendy for the average guy with only his own machines to work on.
I have to concede that my troubleshooting was flawed the from the start as I should've had it scanned before I touched anything. No tech. can efficiently troubleshoot any type of machine that runs an ECU without at least retrieving the fault codes first.
It'd be nice if someone in the aftermarket would provide an affordable scan tool or even just a simple code retriever.
D.W. is too spendy for the average guy with only his own machines to work on.
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