'09 X - remove air box?

[GoldenRider1]

Wondering if anyone has thought about taking out the whole air box....I was looking at it today and at first thought it was hanging from the headlight shroud and console etc, but it actually appears to hold up the headlight and console and stuff, was thinking that this could be achieved with a tubular aluminum support hoop from the top of the shock towers. Could save some weight and a whole lot of clutter, and then provide room for a big air filter and simple pipe to the intake. Like when I took the stock air intake out of my Mazda 3, was left with about 25lbs of plastic luggage looking stuff and replaced it with a k&n, one bent pipe with a filter on the end.

I'm new to this stuff - so what do you all think? What do you think the sound would be like with an intake like that? Is the stock air box this way only to meet sound emmision standards?

nate

 

[SHERMAN]

Under the hood of the xp's reminds me of a unibody car everything is holding everything else together and then velcroed to the frame. personally i opted for the timbersled intake, maybe it works better...maybe not. we'll see in the snow.i am a little worried about roll overs though

 

[Mikboo]

I also installed the Timbersled air intake. It works great for me. The kits comes with the support brace you're talking about, because yes the air box does hold the headlight assembly in place. The kit removes a lot of plastic & makes some nice room to acctually be able to work on carbs etc. I recently talked too a rep from Ski Doo & he said all of them get their personal sleds home & install this kit too. They can't do it from the factory if they want to pass emmissions.

 

[Xtremecb]

Another option is to get the race airbox for XP's from your Doo dealer. It takes a little fab work, but does draw the coldest air of all the airbox kits. The intake will be moved on top of the cowl on the left side right by the console. Never plugs in any snow condition and you get to remove all that plastic stuff.

 

[GoldenRider1]

Another option is to get the race airbox for XP's from your Doo dealer. It takes a little fab work, but does draw the coldest air of all the airbox kits. The intake will be moved on top of the cowl on the left side right by the console. Never plugs in any snow condition and you get to remove all that plastic stuff.

Do you know of a link to some info on this kit? Also the timbersled kit - any links to that one?

Agreed about the everything is holding everything else comment....was hard to determine really what the extent of the affected parts would be by trying to do this. For various reasons I do want to do it though....one being the chance of actually being able to see (and maybe fit a hand in there to wrench). A simplified and more guaranteed supply of cold combustion air being the other.

nate

 

[ledoo]

Do you know of a link to some info on this kit? Also the timbersled kit - any links to that one?

Agreed about the everything is holding everything else comment....was hard to determine really what the extent of the affected parts would be by trying to do this. For various reasons I do want to do it though....one being the chance of actually being able to see (and maybe fit a hand in there to wrench). A simplified and more guaranteed supply of cold combustion air being the other.

nate

http://www.timbersled.com/

 

[ledoo]

http://www.denysschen.com/catalogue/density.asp
Here's another link to consider roughly 2% lower air density for every 5 degrees celcius hotter combustion air. that's roughly 2% lower fuel and horsepower for ideal combustion. as well as the loss of the return pulse that charges the air box as well there is literature on resonance associated with air boxes which aid in air fuel charge mixture......... lots to think about.

 

[GoldenRider1]

hmmmm....thanks ledoo. agreed lots to think about, I think it will just run as is for this winter and then maybe make a summer project out of taking it apart and changing the air intake....

cheers.

nate

 

[winter brew]

You will lose power if you get rid of the factory settup.

 

[GoldenRider1]

You will lose power if you get rid of the factory settup.

really? why's that?

nate

 

[winter brew]

Most settups draw hot, underhood air or are not designed to resonate at peak RPM to help with airflow (look into airbox design, quite involved and robs airflow if not done properly). Plus they usually sound like poop, noisy and less power is no fun.
You'll notice most settups require fatter jetting....this isn't because it flows more air, but typically because it draws LESS air and needs a larger jet to flow the same amount of fuel as a smaller jet with good airflow.

 

[Original Tetonice]

I run K&N and they work great....When removing the airbox you will need to preventing the filters from drawing in to much heat robbing power. To keep enough cold air passing under the hood it will be important to install large vent kits on hood/side panels.

OT

 

[GoldenRider1]

I run K&N and they work great....When removing the airbox you will need to preventing the filters from drawing in to much heat robbing power. To keep enough cold air passing under the hood it will be important to install large vent kits on hood/side panels.

OT

any chance you would snap a few pics of your set up? What model# of k&n product are you using?

nate

 

[winter brew]

Here's a good read on the subject. http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/articles/2000/pipetemp/pipetemp.php

 

[Original Tetonice]

any chance you would snap a few pics of your set up? What model# of k&n product are you using?

nate

I prefer the R&M vent kit, they have a web-site....You can't see the filters very well in the photos the secondary on the clutch side and the pipe/can on the opposite side are in the way.

2-3/4 ID flange for the Mikuni Carbs you will run the 6" filter which is # SN2600. you will also want to run the filter-sock as well #SN2600PK...

OT

 

[GoldenRider1]

Here's a good read on the subject. http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/articles/2000/pipetemp/pipetemp.php

wow that is a good read...I think I understand about 50-60% of it haha. thanks though, makes me believe it's not so simple.

nate

 

[Original Tetonice]

The differance between the stock airbox and K&N Filters as it relates to Carberators and Altitudes..........Since the XP is carberated when in "high altitude deep snow over the hood powder all day long" The airbox inlet more times than not is not capable of supplying "enough air" due to the riding condition and altitude. If your riding over the hood powder or carve a lot on the clutch side where air is supplied to the stock box. Once plugged with snow you have effectively decreased the air flow supply to the box and carbs. Another example would be HP as it relates to altitude and thin air. For every 1000' in altitude you climb you can deduct approx 3% per 1000' feet of altitude. The tiny stock airbox, tiny stock inlet supply in high altitude/deepsnow conditions imo does not supply as much consistant cold air as a K&N/vent kit supplies.

Magazines 100% of the time write in "pefect world conditions" and not "real world" riding in deep snow at 9000' during a snowstorm where thin air, out side temps and barometric pressure will effect engine, pipe and clutch performance.

OT

 

[GoldenRider1]

that's the very reason I was interested in modding my air intake in the first place.....alright, I'm gonna start shopping.

nate

 

[Peak-Motorsports]

Hey guys, we just came out with a very simple and effective air box mod for the XP. It utilizes the stock intake as well as creating a hot air shroud that the timbersled intake does not (also pulls in more cold air than the timbersled intake). Additionally, it is MUCH cheaper. Go to www.peak-motorsports.com under "parts and accessory specials".

 

[snowmobiler]

all i see is pants and jackets