09 M8 Turbo shuts off after steep climbs, won't start back up.

[arctic matt]

I wanted to add to my previous post that I have tried to start my sled using the threads posted many times by turning off the kill switch and pulling it 3 times with full throttle and then turning the switch to run and pulling again with no throttle...no difference seems like the engine continues to back-fire pop and sputter trying to stay idling but if you give it any throttle it will stop. I did manage to get it started and get higher throttle and actually ran it for about 15-20 minutes but everytime I tried to let it idle it would go back to this limp mode. If I shut it off it goes back to the sputering popping and difficulty starting again??? I am confused with this limp mode setting I keep reading about? How long can a sled stay in limp mode? Also if it is heat soaked.....how long does that last? If there is a sensor biult in to protect the motor from overheating and shuts the motor down how is it reset? How long does it stay in this situation?? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Is there a wrench flashing or codes showing up. Do you have proper fuel pressure. Usually with the heat soak issue its only when you shut it off hot and once it starts its good to go. Sound more like a bad sensor or something is wrong with the kit. Whos kit???

 

[savage]

Heat sensor

Probably the heat sensor. You can unplug heat sensor wire ( yellow and under the coolant container) pull once, reconnect the wire and your machine will start.

This is just a band aid, not a solution. I have mounted a heat sensor switch on my dash to make the process easier.

 

[jhurkot]

if i don't let mine idle down after being mean to it, it's a pain to start. it will idle at like 2800rpm and then when it drops down to 1800rpm it's fine to shut off.

 

[arctic matt]

Is there a wrench flashing or codes showing up. Do you have proper fuel pressure. Usually with the heat soak issue its only when you shut it off hot and once it starts its good to go. Sound more like a bad sensor or something is wrong with the kit. Whos kit???

I purchased this sled off KSL this year and I do not know the name of the Turbo Kit? I looked all over it and find no brand. The oil container is orange in color? I am trying to find the phone number to the guy I bought it from to find out. I think what puzzles me the most after reading all these threads on turbos and the problems with "Heat Soaked" and with not starting....my symptoms are different in that my sled runs up a big hill usually the second time I attack the hill it "Shuts my motor off" and then it goes into this limp mode where it tries to start but sputters, pops and when it does start it sounds like it is either flooding or is in this one cylinder limp mode everyone is describing?

 

[arctic matt]

I purchased this sled off KSL this year and I do not know the name of the Turbo Kit? I looked all over it and find no brand. The oil container is orange in color? I am trying to find the phone number to the guy I bought it from to find out. I think what puzzles me the most after reading all these threads on turbos and the problems with "Heat Soaked" and with not starting....my symptoms are different in that my sled runs up a big hill usually the second time I attack the hill it "Shuts my motor off" and then it goes into this limp mode where it tries to start but sputters, pops and when it does start it sounds like it is either flooding or is in this one cylinder limp mode everyone is describing?

I have occassionally seen the "wrench with the 06 code" show up but rarely. I do have the "Toggle switch" in this sled....previously put in by original owner. I was told that this sled was Bret Rasmussens' sled....I would contact him but I havn't got his number either? I also wonder about this toggle switch...is it suppose to be "On" all the time or just to start the sled?

Thanks

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Your problem doesn't sound like a heat soak problem. The switch is just so if it is heat soaked you flip it to off pull until it fires then turn it back on and it should start and run. Can you post pics of it. What kind of tuning gauges does it have and does it have a fuel pressure gauge. Sounds to me like it is going lean, maybe your boost pressure line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator has a hole in it or something. Or its a deto code, call a dealer and ask them what the 06 code is, are you sure its a 06 code.

 

[Ricks 32]

ECU code 6 is water temp sensor. If your toggle switch, which is the hot start switch is turned on it will act like a choke. I only use mine when I'm starting after sled was hot.

My sled has an ECU code 6 right now and it won't go off. I'm going to dig into it later in the week, but I was told by dealer that most likely its a bad wire or connection due to they haven't seen any water temp sensor's going bad.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

ECU code 6 is water temp sensor. If your toggle switch, which is the hot start switch is turned on it will act like a choke. I only use mine when I'm starting after sled was hot.

My sled has an ECU code 6 right now and it won't go off. I'm going to dig into it later in the week, but I was told by dealer that most likely its a bad wire or connection due to they haven't seen any water temp sensor's going bad.

This sounds like the problem, either its been left in the wrong position, a loose or broken wire to or from the switch and sensor or a faulty sensor.

 

[arctic matt]

Your problem doesn't sound like a heat soak problem. The switch is just so if it is heat soaked you flip it to off pull until it fires then turn it back on and it should start and run. Can you post pics of it. What kind of tuning gauges does it have and does it have a fuel pressure gauge. Sounds to me like it is going lean, maybe your boost pressure line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator has a hole in it or something. Or its a deto code, call a dealer and ask them what the 06 code is, are you sure its a 06 code.

I will try and get some pics, I believe this is a Boondocker Turbo, it has the Boondocker Control box the guages are

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Your temp switch needs to be in the on position, should fix all your problems, surprised you could even start it.

 

[arctic matt]

I will try and get some pics, I believe this is a Boondocker Turbo, it has the Boondocker Control box the guages are

koso gauges. I also finally got it started again and while I had it running I tried to keep it running while flipping the "choke/Heat sensor Toggle" from On to Off and noticed that it did effect the rpms. I also notice after about 3-4 minutes of keeping the sled running by keeping the rpms up around 4500-5000 that the engine light came on and also it read TEMP on the gauge. No codes or wrench showed up. While I had it going I then toggled the temp/heat switch to On and the Temp light stopped, then I toggled it to OFF and the light came back and so did the word TEMP on the gauge. I don't know if this helps or not but I hope so. I then slowly let the rpms come back down hopeing that it would idle on its own without dieing like usual. It idled for a few minutes and then I could hear it slowly going back into this sputter mode and it died. I tried to restart it and I pulled another 15 times or so useing the steps mentioned earlier with the kill switch off pull 3 times then kill switch to On(Start) mode....wouldn't start? I do not have a fuel regulator.

 

[arctic matt]

Probably the heat sensor. You can unplug heat sensor wire ( yellow and under the coolant container) pull once, reconnect the wire and your machine will start.

This is just a band aid, not a solution. I have mounted a heat sensor switch on my dash to make the process easier.

Thanks for the tip, I tried that and it didn't work. I wished it would of. I checked all the connections and the wires and everything looks fine???? hmmm.

 

[arctic matt]

This sounds like the problem, either its been left in the wrong position, a loose or broken wire to or from the switch and sensor or a faulty sensor.

Since I purchased the sled it has always been in the "On" position. It ran fine for the first 5 or 6 rides and then this problem came about when I would hit big long hills or if I hit two good climbs back to back then on the second climb while it was pretty much at full throttle suddenly it would lose power and kill the motor. Then back to the not being able to start, or if it did start it was like on one cylinder and if you gave it any gas it would die. Thats when I started really wondering what position this "heat/sensor toggle" switch should be in? Some posts say you only use it to "Start it" with like a choke after the engine has been heated up and then you turn it off? So I am confused by the conflicting posts? I appreciate all the help here.

 

[TREE_MAGNET_777]

Haven't been here in a while so if these have been suggested sorry...But sounds like you are running out of fuel. Have you cleaned your smart valves in your tank??? May be plugging after a hard run. Also how many miles are on your reeds??? some say sleds will run rotten when the break..Hopes this helps

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You do have a fuel regulator, you should install a fuel pressure gauge so you know whats going on. When the boost is applied it ups the fuel pressure, if that is not working right it can really cause problems. Reed usually make them run like crap on bottom but you can't usually tell on top, but if you have over 500miles on the reads they are worth checking. I would also check the ground to the bd box, I know in the past the bd kits had a power problem, where they where getting the power from wasn't right and now have a new wiring harness with better wiring, are any codes showing up on the bd box, You might want to try unhooking the fuel pump wires and reverse the polarity to make it run backwards to flush it out, then drain all the gas and put new gas in. But for some reason I think it has something to do with fuel pressure. You may want to find a good dealer that deals with bd kits. or convert it to a twisted kit and make life simple.

 

[arctic matt]

You do have a fuel regulator, you should install a fuel pressure gauge so you know whats going on. When the boost is applied it ups the fuel pressure, if that is not working right it can really cause problems. Reed usually make them run like crap on bottom but you can't usually tell on top, but if you have over 500miles on the reads they are worth checking. I would also check the ground to the bd box, I know in the past the bd kits had a power problem, where they where getting the power from wasn't right and now have a new wiring harness with better wiring, are any codes showing up on the bd box, You might want to try unhooking the fuel pump wires and reverse the polarity to make it run backwards to flush it out, then drain all the gas and put new gas in. But for some reason I think it has something to do with fuel pressure. You may want to find a good dealer that deals with bd kits. or convert it to a twisted kit and make life simple.

Thanks for all your suggestions, I will try to check the ground out on the BD box, and get the fuel pressure checked out or install a gauge. I have had the reeds checked out. I had a previous problem with the sled about 2 months ago with the sled, alot like the previous posts with turning off the sled and it not starting again. I took it to a dealer and after 850.00 worth of tests and chasing what they said was a ghost it finally came down to a PIN in the wiring connection harness was loose or bent? Go figure it was causing my enjectors to squirt large amounts of fuel during the start up and would flood the engine! So now I am really concerned about letting some shop just play around chasing things down racking up a bill if you know what I mean. So if someone else has had a problem like I am having I just hope they post some information before I take it to some where. Thanks for all info I appreciate it!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Is it a race gas kit. If you install the gauge you can get reading at idle and under boost, it should have a regulator that is boost actuated and increases fuel pressure when boost is applied. So as you build boost the fuel pressure should increase. What are your egts reading when it first starts to die and after.

 

[mmsports]

Reads

that is a common symptom of reeds starting to go. How is the bottom end?
Or that you have some piston damage.

 

[Ricks 32]

Your "Temp Light" is coming off when you flip your hot start button b/c you are bypassing your Water Temp Sensor and not allowing it to send a signal to the ECU telling it that the temps are too hot. Only use the toggle switch to start the sled once it's hot. After it starts (I even turn it off after the sled fires once yet doesn't start to avoid flooding).

I'd check the reeds as well.

Good luck

koso gauges. I also finally got it started again and while I had it running I tried to keep it running while flipping the "choke/Heat sensor Toggle" from On to Off and noticed that it did effect the rpms. I also notice after about 3-4 minutes of keeping the sled running by keeping the rpms up around 4500-5000 that the engine light came on and also it read TEMP on the gauge. No codes or wrench showed up. While I had it going I then toggled the temp/heat switch to On and the Temp light stopped, then I toggled it to OFF and the light came back and so did the word TEMP on the gauge. I don't know if this helps or not but I hope so. I then slowly let the rpms come back down hopeing that it would idle on its own without dieing like usual. It idled for a few minutes and then I could hear it slowly going back into this sputter mode and it died. I tried to restart it and I pulled another 15 times or so useing the steps mentioned earlier with the kill switch off pull 3 times then kill switch to On(Start) mode....wouldn't start? I do not have a fuel regulator.