put slp pipe on with their clutching specs-71g mtx with 40-36 helix. I ride at 9000ft and higher. Does not pull any harder than stock. In fact I lost low end snap. low end is more sluggish than stock set up. cluthcing help needed.
09 m8 clutching with slp pipe kit
- Thread starter rwebb35
- Start date
thanx Bacon! I will put stock helix back in and keep you posted. what about these slp weights? arctic cat recomends 68g for 9000ft and higher. i have read on this site that some people do not like the mtx weights. Just wondering what they do not like about them?
Jason! THis is how my sled is running too. I am going to try the stock 68g weights and stock 36 helix with my slp set up. I will keep you guys posted.
Stock 68G cat weights also felt real lazy in my 09 M8 with the slp pipe. Went back to the 70G cat weights with a 125/340 speedwerx H5 primary spring and it pulls hard, way harder than the 68's even in a climb. Rode yesterday at 9K and was getting 8000rpm in a hard pull. I would go with 70's and 340 finish rate on primary spring.
B
Bacon
Well-known member
Did you get the clutch reshimmed when you put in the MTX weights?. My setup is 09 M8, mesh hood, SLP pipe, and 71g MTX weights. Everything else stock. Other than loading up a little when idleing too long, I can't imagine it could work much better. This is running 8500-10,000ft.
If you put a boondocker box on there it will clean up that low end.
I have this exact same setup on my 07 M8. My tach says im still only pullin 7850. Like I said, im runnin the 40/36 helix with the 71g mtx with 3g in the heel and 1g in the tip. I also installed a shift assist. I would like to see 8000 on my tach but im not sure what direction to go. It pulls pretty good but as the OP stated, just dont seem much better than stock. Would goin back to the 36* helix be best? The reason i went with the 40/36 is for the 3700 rpm engagement, with the 36* helix i was gettin a 4100 rpm engagement, but i never took it to the mountain with the 36* helix in. The other option i have is to run without any weight in the tip and leave the 3g's in the heels. This is all for 3000-7000ft elevation.Sorry if it seems like im stealin the thread, just have this same problem and want to figure it out.
J
JasonAK
Well-known member
I agree,
I put the the SLP 140/340 spring in and went up 2 grams on the primary. Sled now pulls hard all the way though from 4000-8150. I am still running the 46/36 Helix but I am at 0-3000 Ft.
Jason
What weights are you running?
Add me to the mix too guys.
I now have my 09 M8 153" Sno Pro in the shop and it has a dealer installed SLP single.
The helix is a BDX 42/36 with the stock orange spring. I ordered a shift assist kit for it but, it isn't here yet.
The primary spring is stock and it is still set up with the 73 gram stock weights but, that seems rather heavy to me for my 3-7,000 feet elevation, right?
Should I try to get a set of 68 or 70 gram weights to try next?
I now have my 09 M8 153" Sno Pro in the shop and it has a dealer installed SLP single.
The helix is a BDX 42/36 with the stock orange spring. I ordered a shift assist kit for it but, it isn't here yet.
The primary spring is stock and it is still set up with the 73 gram stock weights but, that seems rather heavy to me for my 3-7,000 feet elevation, right?
Should I try to get a set of 68 or 70 gram weights to try next?
J
JasonAK
Well-known member
77 Gram Arctic Cat Weights. I have no pre-load on the secondary. I hit 8160 RPM's at 1600 ft.
Jason
J
JHG
Well-known member
Man there's a lot of unanswered questions in this thread.
rwebb, if you like that helix and how it's shifting then drop weight in the primary. You will feel it when the sled hits about 8000. That pipe needs 8-8100 to run well. Make sure you only change one thing at a time though. I like the straight 36 but I also run a torsion kit.
You can change the engagement with the primary spring. I've never had much luck with MTX weights. If you take all the weight out of the tip I think it's probably not going to hold the R's up top. Just like above, you either need a shallower helix or lose some primary weight.
Have you tried the 73's yet. With an SLP pipe and compression setup at your altitude it sounds pretty close. For comparison, I've got 67's in mine at 9500' with a torsion kit and 36 degree helix. I see 8000 most of the time. The torsion kit likes less weight than the stock compression setup. When I still had the compression setup I was running 71's in the primary.
Grind from the side of the weight, pretty even from heel to tip.
You can put the shift assist in but you will need to figure out a way to compress the secondary to get the bolts out of the helix. Also I would replace the screws holding the helix on. They have loctite on them so you will probably need a little heat to get them out. Careful with the heat though, just a little and make sure its pin pointed where you need it.
rwebb, if you like that helix and how it's shifting then drop weight in the primary. You will feel it when the sled hits about 8000. That pipe needs 8-8100 to run well. Make sure you only change one thing at a time though. I like the straight 36 but I also run a torsion kit.
You can change the engagement with the primary spring. I've never had much luck with MTX weights. If you take all the weight out of the tip I think it's probably not going to hold the R's up top. Just like above, you either need a shallower helix or lose some primary weight.
Have you tried the 73's yet. With an SLP pipe and compression setup at your altitude it sounds pretty close. For comparison, I've got 67's in mine at 9500' with a torsion kit and 36 degree helix. I see 8000 most of the time. The torsion kit likes less weight than the stock compression setup. When I still had the compression setup I was running 71's in the primary.
Grind from the side of the weight, pretty even from heel to tip.
You can put the shift assist in but you will need to figure out a way to compress the secondary to get the bolts out of the helix. Also I would replace the screws holding the helix on. They have loctite on them so you will probably need a little heat to get them out. Careful with the heat though, just a little and make sure its pin pointed where you need it.
I'll throw my setup to list - even my sled is different. Maybe someone may get some other ideas from this? My sled is CF7 with RS 8 big bore (stock pipe and stock fuel) so power should be quite similar as piped M8? I'm at 0-3000ft and running 141" with 60/60 gears. But longer gears may compensate the longer track?
My setup:
- CPC 65-75 weights set to 70.5 loaded at heel. Stock CF7 weights are 75gr, so I'm running way lighter even there's more hp.
- Stock Y/W primary spring
- Stock 44/40 helix
- CPC red/white torsional (same as Cat R/W?), at 3rd hole.
- Belt clearance set below 1mm by grinding down collar from the stock clutch spacer and added 1.5mm spacer
Engages at 3300 rpm and pulls hard up to 8000 in my tach. Really like those CPC adjustable weights!
My setup:
- CPC 65-75 weights set to 70.5 loaded at heel. Stock CF7 weights are 75gr, so I'm running way lighter even there's more hp.
- Stock Y/W primary spring
- Stock 44/40 helix
- CPC red/white torsional (same as Cat R/W?), at 3rd hole.
- Belt clearance set below 1mm by grinding down collar from the stock clutch spacer and added 1.5mm spacer
Engages at 3300 rpm and pulls hard up to 8000 in my tach. Really like those CPC adjustable weights!
Thanks bighoe, just got a couple more questions. Like I said, i have the heels loaded with the 3g rivets right now so if i dont take anymore outta the tip but instead out of the heel, am i going to see an increase in top end RPM's or will i be working backwards? The last thing is, Ive been thinkin about goin to a torsional secondary setup but ive heard fairly mixed reviews on them. Would i see some better performance if i swapped over? Thanks again.
J
JHG
Well-known member
As far as the loading, I have had mixed results. Last year I tied tip loading the weight and it seemed sluggish until the top but it held RPM's really well once you got it wound up. I then loaded the heal and the bottom end seemed better the the RPM's would go from like 7800 to 8100, back and forth at WOT and not hold a specific RPM. I ended up taking the adjustable weights out and going with stock cat weights. So far they have been the best of both worlds. I'm sure other people have had different experiences but that was just mine.
As far as the torsional secondary, I really like mine. It uses less primary weight but seems to backshift much better. The compression setups can work really well too. This summer I'm going with the STM secondary and selling my RKT. I have a friend running the STM and so far it's been sweet and it uses the old style helixs that are cheap and easy to change.
G
geo
Well-known member
One thing that is often forgotten is the force applied by the weights is exponential to the rpm and only linear to the mass.
So more hp doesn't mean it needs more weight if the rpm has increased. Depending on how much rpm is added, you could need less weight with more power.
Get your target rpm first, then add helix to see if you got enough hp to pull the added gearing. Lighter weights backshift easier and you'll know really quick if you trying to pull too much gear on a hill.
MO anyway.
Geo
So more hp doesn't mean it needs more weight if the rpm has increased. Depending on how much rpm is added, you could need less weight with more power.
Get your target rpm first, then add helix to see if you got enough hp to pull the added gearing. Lighter weights backshift easier and you'll know really quick if you trying to pull too much gear on a hill.
MO anyway.
Geo
