Hello all, I have looked and looked and looked I have had several issues and I think some may be related so I am going to do my best to describe them. So today we went and rode it was -5 F and they did not want to start I had to give them a little throttle and pull which I thought was odd for a cfi machine but what ever it was freaking cold. I let them both warm up to 100 before heading out on the trail I just putted on the trail until it was 120 there was plenty of fresh snow on the trail so I didn't think anything about just staying on the trail. My check engine light was sort of flickering not a blink a flicker I thought it might be due to the cold. Once warm I hammered throttle and engine light on steady. I stopped and shut it off restarted same problem light flickers at idle on solid at throttle. Did a couple of small hill climbs and then went to big open field about foot of new snow. Played a bit in the field not enough snow to cover intake but engine started bogging bad through mid I could not accelerate through it I could lift stab it again and it sometimes would bog sometimes not. I thought it might be freezing up or seizing something anyway so I brought it down to an idle and I could keep the engine running but gauge stopped working throttle up and it would come back on. A week ago odometer stopped working it only had 16 miles on it since new when it stopped working. I am thinking electrical problem because other sled same warm up same purchase date and oil and break in and it had no problems today just mine. The bog also went away but check engine light never did and once again it is on solid. Thanks for any help oh and charge indicator never dropped off of full and I tried not running hand warmers and running them to see if it was a voltage output problem.
09 dragon 800 Check engine light
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^x2! I would think your constant CE light is telling you DET (detonation), which is most likely from a hot/lean condition. The bog and not being able to get it to run above mid range is the LIMP mode (ECU changes timing and shoves more fuel into the cylinders to protect the motor, get rid of the lean condition). My bet is you've scuffed at least one of the pistons (probably the MAG side).
Pull the exhaust valves like Skitter suggested, takes a total of 5 minutes. This will enable you a small view of the exhaust side of the pistons.
It was not limp mode my other dragon flashed a five code on a warm day with a new rider nursing the throttle and I rode it with the light flashing and it was a distinct limit like a rev limiter kicking in I can't really explain the difference I just could feel it. This was a bog not the computer shutting it down. It was almost like the coils where not getting enough voltage to run the limp mode had a very distinct sound and feel I knew right away it was doing it and I had to shut it off and restart it to get the limp mode to go away this I could idle and wait a second then go again with the check engine light still on and it would sometimes do it and sometimes not. I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow I have not tested it yet to see if the light still comes on and stays on and I will pull the valve and see if any engine damage has happened. That is what it felt like was happening but it was hard to tell. Thanks for the help so far.
5 flashes = the Pipe Temp sensor
I heard that the timing will be retarded a bit to try and heat up the pipe.
I heard that the timing will be retarded a bit to try and heat up the pipe.
the sled is at the dealer now to see what is going on with it. I will let everyone know what they tell me. I hope I will not have to do the 2010 update I was hoping to finish out the season with the 09 stuff. I wanted to start next season on the fresh top end.
If your pipe sensor is bad, I would like to take the old and bad one off your hands.
Why would you want a bad temp sensor?
I want to play with them and see if I can find out what causes them to go bad. Mostly toying around.
well if that is what is wrong and I can get it back you can have it
Thanks, if that is the case shoot me a PM with your e-mail and I'll even send you some postage $$.
Ok, Talked to shop today they seem to think it is an electrical problem the only code in both machines was a crank sensor code but they said it sets that when the reverse is used so there was nothing in the computer. They also said that they have never seen one just have the check engine light on solid. So who freaking knows at this point more than likely I will just ride them this weekend and see what pops up this time. Or maybe if they can fix the speed o it will take care of the other problems. They said the cylinders looked good so I guess it was not trying to seize up. So once again who freaking knows
Well here is an update I rode this weekend it ran fine at first but as the day went on it still had the infamous mid range bog no check engine light the speedo did not get checked so it still does not work but it did not seem to matter. It seemed like the more I ran in mid the worse it got. If I ran wide open or ran mid then let it idle it did not do it. If I played in a field just sort of mid range carving then went to pull a hill it would bog very similar to every other post on this site. The old back out and stand on it again and it goes away. I am thinking power commander at this point
Fixed
Finally I am making head way. It is so hard to solve these problems there is so many variables air temp-fuel-oil-mapping-mechanical-elevation-engine temp-clutching..... It is a pain so I just tried one thing at a time to see what changed so first I changed plugs went to the iridium ngk. No change, then I went to different oil from VES gold to KLOTZ I have used this oil for years in banshees so I figured I would give it a whirl and it smells good. No change, then I tried a couple of gallons of nav gas to bump octane and no real change mixed with the KLOTZ smelled even better so I went the oposite direction on fuel went to 85 octane no real change. So then I got it to start bogging out and plugged in the ethanol wires. It went away completely. In my paper work it says to plug them in when not using ethanol and unplugged when using but on this forum many people are saying the opposite. Mine now runs good and the wires are connected. I am going to continue to run KLOTZ see what happens. Hope this helps someone else
Finally I am making head way. It is so hard to solve these problems there is so many variables air temp-fuel-oil-mapping-mechanical-elevation-engine temp-clutching..... It is a pain so I just tried one thing at a time to see what changed so first I changed plugs went to the iridium ngk. No change, then I went to different oil from VES gold to KLOTZ I have used this oil for years in banshees so I figured I would give it a whirl and it smells good. No change, then I tried a couple of gallons of nav gas to bump octane and no real change mixed with the KLOTZ smelled even better so I went the oposite direction on fuel went to 85 octane no real change. So then I got it to start bogging out and plugged in the ethanol wires. It went away completely. In my paper work it says to plug them in when not using ethanol and unplugged when using but on this forum many people are saying the opposite. Mine now runs good and the wires are connected. I am going to continue to run KLOTZ see what happens. Hope this helps someone else