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09 600 rmk clutch alignment results

S

SaskRMK

Active member
Well i have finally checked the alignment at 4k miles. With a non oem clutch tool and with the secondary pushed inward against all of the washers the face of the secondary is 1/8" away from the tool closest to the primary and further from the primary it is 1/4' away from the tool. From my understanding this would mean my engine is sitting crooked in my chassis? Regardless of adding or removing washers i am still going to be out 1/8 of an inch between both measurements. I have read of adding washers under motor mount studs or slotting the engine straps, is this my only choice to have this realigned properly?

With the clutch tool installed should the secondary be touching the tool with the secondary pushed back into the washers? As i stated with it pushed into the washers i am out 1/8" on one side and 1/4" from touching the alignment tool.

Can some one shed some insight on how to actual align the clutches properly? I have read the manual with the tool and some information online but it was vague.

clutchalignment.jpg
 
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Well i have finally checked the alignment at 4k miles. With a non oem clutch tool and with the secondary pushed inward against all of the washers the face of the secondary is 1/8" away from the tool closest to the primary and further from the primary it is 1/4' away from the tool. From my understanding this would mean my engine is sitting crooked in my chassis? Regardless of adding or removing washers i am still going to be out 1/8 of an inch between both measurements. I have read of adding washers under motor mount studs or slotting the engine straps, is this my only choice to have this realigned properly?

With the clutch tool installed should the secondary be touching the tool with the secondary pushed back into the washers? As i stated with it pushed into the washers i am out 1/8" on one side and 1/4" from touching the alignment tool.

Can some one shed some insight on how to actual align the clutches properly? I have read the manual with the tool and some information online but it was vague.

clutchalignment.jpg

Looks like your engine is crooked like you said, but first take your SLP alignment tool and place it up against an accurate straight edge like a drywall T-Square or carpenter's level and measure with some vernier calipers to confirm that the alignment bar is "straight"

Check out my engine alignment thread under "INCREASING YOUR IQ"

With the IQ's, you can NOT shim to correct mis-alignment (Although you can shim to correct on the EDGE chassis sleds), slotting the engine brackets is your only option on the IQ's

Remove your secondary clutch bolt, and slide the secondary towards you until the front LIGHTLY contacts the alignment bar. Then using a stack of feeler gauges ACCURATELY measure the air gap at the rear of the secondary ( I realize it should be approx .125" based on your post, but take the time to measure it this way)

Then remove the primary & secondary clutches and check your Center/Center

11.5" is spec, so butt an accurate one foot metal ruler up against the jack shaft and look for EXACTLY 11" at the center of the crank (Jack shaft is 1" OD)

Once you check that, I can tell you real close how much to slot the brackets to save you the slot, bolt the engine back in, re-slot, etc.

On my 2007 D-7 I removed the engine.

On my bud's 2007 D7, we removed the 4 motor mount bolts and propped the engine up with 2 x 4 's, left EVERYTHING CONNECTED ( coolant lines, wiring, fuel lines, etc) It was a P.I.T.A. to get at the 4 engine bracket to case bolts, but it did save time.

BTW, do you have a SLP limiter on the MAG side up against the recoil housing?
 
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Hey Kraven thanks for the in depth reply. I have used a stack of feeler gauges and confirmed i have .108 gap furthest away from the primary clutch. My center to center is 11.5".

I had blocked my engine up earlier this season in order to change a broken engine strap with out removing the engine.

I do no have the slp push limiter on the mag side.

thanks!
 
Hey Kraven thanks for the in depth reply. I have used a stack of feeler gauges and confirmed i have .108 gap furthest away from the primary clutch. My center to center is 11.5".

I had blocked my engine up earlier this season in order to change a broken engine strap with out removing the engine.

I do no have the slp push limiter on the mag side.

thanks!

Slot the MAG side engine bracket holes (going forward) .130" to .140" (slightly more than 1/8") and remember to "PULL" The engine forward before tightening the bracket to case bolts.

PLEASE triple check your C/C

I realize that you said 11.5", but if it's a little short or long, now's the time to address it.

No slot on the PTO side bracket UNLESS you want to find tune the C/C.

Leaving on a 5 day sled trip in the a.m.

Post tonight or next week Wednesday if you need help
 
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