09 600 RMK bogging white plugs

[SaskRMK]

I own a 2009 600 RMK with the only modifications being an MBRP silencer can and SLP Intake screens and recently i have had some bogging issues. I will be on the throttle at say aroun 7200 RPM get a few hard bogs, drop to 6800 let off and get back on the throttle and its fine. At first i thought i was taking on some snow as the air was FULL of heavy ice dust last time i was out riding. I tossed some new plugs in, went for a 15-20 minute tear and upon removing them the tips were white. From my understanding my sled isn't getting enough fuel and the bog i am feeling is the ecu cutting me out so the motor doesn't pop. Has any one ever had any similar issues and how did you deal with it? I was thinking of running an injector cleaner because the injectors may be clogged. There was no lights flashing when it bogged and i only use NGK plugs and Shell V power premium fuel


Thanks for taking the time to read my issue.

 

[SaskRMK]

ttt

 

[retiredpop]

Possibly the fuel filter is partially plugged.

 

[skibreeze]

White plugs are definitely lean. Could be injectors, fuel filter, tps set incorrectly or bad.

 

[freerideordie]

there was a reflash for the 2 inj. rmk... it was for a lean bog at lower elevation.

 

[SaskRMK]

Was that update only for the 800 motors? Tomorrow im going to ride it with some fuel injectors cleaner as well as a New fuel filter. Any tips on removing those connections without the proper tools? I have many specialty tools but not one for this type of pressure connection. I would of purchased the tool but picked the filter up last minute and would like to put it in before i ride tomorrow. Should i be riding the sled in this state? 95% of the time its fine and doesnt bog. Any way to test the TPS sensor?

Thanks

 

[kenairmk]

The tool for removing the fuel filter can be had for less than 10 bucks at any parts store.

 

[SaskRMK]

What should i star testing?

should i ensure i have 60+ psi fuel pressure? can i attach the gauge off the fuel line that is right beside the fuel filter line on the threaded bung?

I picked up the fuel filter line tool and it looks like I'm better off pulling the air box to swap the fuel filter.

Today i also noticed that the 10% ethanol resistor was installed and i have been using shell premium V power fuel which contains no ethanol. Could this be causing my issue?

I rode the sled with half of some premium fuel from the lake that may contain ethanol and a half tank of non ethanol fuel (shell v power) with some injector cleaner, It seamed to bog less but its still bogging a few times an hour at WOT and my clutch side plug is white but my can side is normal(brown)

Any other thoughts guys? My last resort is having to take it to get professionally looked at because i don't trust many shops/dealers and have all the tools to do it myself but need the help diagnosing what it may be.

Clutch side plug^
Thanks again guys

 

[sonday_2]

Try puttin a new set of plugs and remove the non ethanol resistor out and try running it, see what happens then and look at plugs. If not go get that flash, my cousin sled, thee pistons seized on him.

 

[SaskRMK]

Alright but the fuel I'm going to be running will not contain ethanol so would it not be wise to keep the non ethanol resistor installed? Im going to drain my tank of this half mystery lake fuel and get a solid tank of Shell V power(no ethanol) and run the non ethanol resistor with new plugs.

I already ran the sled with the ethanol resistor (half of fuel may have had ethanol) and new plugs and it still bogged. The bog is intermittent and sometimes only happens 2-3 times an hour during hard riding

I also have the upper SLP intake screens without the factory polaris foams installed. Is there any way i could be getting to much air into my engine for the amount of fuel?

 

[diamonddave]

How many miles are on this sled?

At least you've been able to figure out which cylinder is most likely causing your symptom. As far as the resistor goes, I don't EVER run mine even though I am now running non-ethanol fuel. We've been told that running the resistor, the ECM richens the fuel mixture by 5%. Considering how poor the quality of fuel is today at the pump, I won't take any chances.

As for your lean cylinder goes, I would be looking at the throttle body intake boot VERY closely. They are tearing right around the outside of each of the bolt holes. It can be very hard to see without removing the airbox and wiggling the throttle bodies. I would check the exhaust bellows for partial tears, or dirty valves that are gummed up. These can cause different runnability symptoms.

How is your oil usuage? Have you been checking it to see if your sled is using the correct amount of oil? I like to add at least an ounce of oil to each gallon of gas.

Is your coolant level going down very, very slowly? A head o'ring or base gasket can leak and cause a lean cylinder. I'd recommend dooing a Compression test and also checking your TPS. There is a thread in the sticky's IQ to build a tool to set and adjust the TPS. Fuel pressure can be tested on the bung on the return line. 58 psi +or- 1-2 psi.


That's all I can think of for now. Keep us posted.

 

[SaskRMK]

Hey Dave thanks for taking the time to reply. There are under 1500 miles on this sled and it had been rebuilt at Polaris after going down while being operated by the original owner. So your saying that you would never run the "non ethanol" resistor no matter what fuel you are using?

At the start of the season i inspected and completely cleaned my exhaust valves and while i was up at the lake last weekend i pulled my valves to check for rip/tears because of the bog issue i was having and was unable to find any damage.

My coolant has not been going down and my sled doesn't seam to be using excessive amounts of oil but much less than my friends 900. can adding a little oil in your gas cause any issues?

I am going to have to check my fuel pressure as well as test the tps to ensure they are proper. This evening i will have to unload my sled pull my air box and check those boots for damage.

I also have the upper SLP intake screens without the factory polaris foams installed. Is there any way i could be getting to much air into my engine for the amount of fuel?

In order to remove the factory intake box to check the throttle body boots do i only need to undo the strap at the rear of the box to remove it? do i have to undo the band clamps on the throttle bodies to pull the box? it doesn't seam like i can get any tools on the clutch side clamp without having to remove the clutch to access the hole behind it. I can barely see the boots but want to fully remove the box to ensure they are not damaged. Any tips would be a help.

I just did a compression test and its just under 120 on each cylinder



Thanks again

 

[SaskRMK]

Well i would of liked to fix this myself but the sled is still under warranty so im going to have to drop it off on Monday. From my understanding it could be one or a combination of the following things.

Improperly set TPS
Clogged/ruined injector
ripped throttle body boot
leaky crank seal
clogged fuel filter(low fuel pressure)
etc

 

[r9559]

what is the piston wash like? remove the exhaust valve to have a good look.