08 dragon clutch allignment

[POLZIN]

Does anyone know if I can use the same clutch alignment tool for my 06 900 on an 08 D8 ? its back from the shop again and now I have a slight belt squeal. its only the third time its been back since the top end "UPDATE" . I dont own the sled but Im riding it until mine is running again and i cant live with that crap.

also are we floating the secondary on the dragons like the 900s ?
assuming the tool is the same the alignment is way worse than my 900 was from the factory

thanks in advance

 

[Kraven]

ALIGNMENT TOOLS

Does anyone know if I can use the same clutch alignment tool for my 06 900 on an 08 D8 ? its back from the shop again and now I have a slight belt squeal. its only the third time its been back since the top end "UPDATE" . I dont own the sled but Im riding it until mine is running again and i cant live with that crap.

also are we floating the secondary on the dragons like the 900s ?
assuming the tool is the same the alignment is way worse than my 900 was from the factory

thanks in advance

Yes, sort of.

The Fusion came with a wider secondary the TSS-98.

The 800 has the TSS-04, which is narrower.

So if you use that older tool on the DRAGON 800, use a stack of feeler gauges look for an additional .100" gap at the secondary, and it'll be good.

I prefer approx .030" of float on the secondary, although some guys like to run more.

BTW, you seem to have found out how much "twist" the engine has, and it's way too much, been there, several times, check out my TECH TIPS THREAD, all the info is there, under INCREASING YOUR IQ pinned at the top.

My 2007 D7 and my bud's had the secondary touching the alignment bar in the front, and .180" air gap at the rear. Yeah, it was that frigging crooked, use to "glaze the belts, and the belt would not come up to the top of the primary. I slotted the mag side engine bracket to correct it.

I got it to the point where you can leave the engine in, all connected, and remove just the MAG side strap, 2 1/2 hours start to finish

Also, you didn't mention which BRAND of alignment bar you have.

The SLP tool is parallel (straight) and the POLARIS SPX has .075" of built-in kick.

SLP recommends only .020" -.040" of "kick/twist with no engine limiters

ZERO -.020" with their MAG side push arm.

I have pix of the different style alignment bars posted in my TECH TIPS thread under INCREASING YOUR IQ" pinned at the top.

Hope this helps

 

[POLZIN]

I think your right about the twist . but in this case I think we have a problem from some idiot at the dealership being in a hurry or being generally incompetant. I run the tss-04 on my 900 as well so the clutches being the same the alignment should be similar and it seems it would be in this case.I use the SLP tool to do so . I let it float a lot so it wont squeal at least until I can correct it. Is there more room for adjustment in the 800 mounting system ? the 9s had 0 adjustment and it was a major issue correcting the alignment.

 

[Kraven]

ENGINE TWIST cont'd

I think your right about the twist . but in this case I think we have a problem from some idiot at the dealership being in a hurry or being generally incompetant. I run the tss-04 on my 900 as well so the clutches being the same the alignment should be similar and it seems it would be in this case.I use the SLP tool to do so . I let it float a lot so it wont squeal at least until I can correct it. Is there more room for adjustment in the 800 mounting system ? the 9s had 0 adjustment and it was a major issue correcting the alignment.

IF the SLP tool you have is over one year old, more that likely it's INTENDED for use with a TSS-98, even if you used it on the TSS-04 on your 900, it may not have been correct?????

SLP only came out with a specific tool for the TSS-04 approx 1 year ago, I have the SLP tool instructions where they recommend the .100" conversion factor so their tool can be used with both styles of secondaries.

Alsaka Mike on here has a tip where he loosens the Chain-case bolts, and moves the chain-case, thereby "angling" the jack-shaft a bit, and thereby moving the secondary and hopefully improving the alignment.

I have not tried this technique, but it may be worth a shot.

My 07D7 and my bud's were so far off, slotting the engine brackets were the only way to correct them.

How much of an air gap do you have at the rear of the secondary when you slide the secondary out (bolt removed) to where it LIGHTLY touches the front of the secondary??

 

[POLZIN]

Well i inherited anoter D8 with clutch problems yesterday ! This one keep binding on the weight and roller when at full extension . 1200 miles of easy riding too . I wll dig into that later . I think I will just order a new tool and eliminate confusion .

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Hey guys, when you run into a sled where the belt alignment is cocked..try this...loosen the 4 bolts holding the chaincase to the tunnel...install your alignment bar in the clutches, then simply push/pull on the top of the chaincase to align the clutches, once there, retighten bolts, far easier then slotting motor mounts and seems to hold the alignment better as well...had one sled I couldnt get enough movement from the chaincase alone and had to slot the motor mount straps as well..but normally I can get them with just the case...and I will say this..the polaris tool works better for me then slp's...just much more accurate...

 

[chumbilly1]

Has any of you tried the fastrax motor mount for the IQ? I just found some sort of mount issue on mine and I am wondering if this might help with alignment issues as well. When the pto front mount fails isnt it usually a broken bolt? I can see the head is still on mine, but it looks like it is a allen head instead of a regular hex bolt head. Does this sound right. Thanks

 

[Kraven]

Hey guys, when you run into a sled where the belt alignment is cocked..try this...loosen the 4 bolts holding the chaincase to the tunnel...install your alignment bar in the clutches, then simply push/pull on the top of the chaincase to align the clutches, once there, retighten bolts, far easier then slotting motor mounts and seems to hold the alignment better as well...had one sled I couldnt get enough movement from the chaincase alone and had to slot the motor mount straps as well..but normally I can get them with just the case...and I will say this..the polaris tool works better for me then slp's...just much more accurate...

Mike,

I previously mentioned your chain-case tip , see post #4, paragraphs 3 and 4, a few posts and a couple of days ago

On the POO /SPX tool, please keep in mind that it has .070" to .075" of built-in "kick" Although it's a high quality built tool, it's way more "kick" than SLP and others recommend.

Just so the user is aware of it and NOT to assume it's parallel or straight like the SLP tool. That way the user can decide which route to go.