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08 D8 engine questions

I went riding on saturday 1/22/11 and i made it a mile from the truck and my sled running good had to shut it off to wait for the rest of the group to catch up started it up let it idle for a min and then took off again made it 300 yards and it was really boggy.... boggy means that something is bad to me so i shut the engine down as fast as i could... pulled the spark plugs and the clutch side was grey with no aluminum on it just grey... anybody know what this means???
i hope i didnt screw anything up i got towed back to the truck to prevent any other engine probablems. im running a pcv with the slp map in it dyno tech is sending me a better map....
 
bogging

If i had to guess, you were in that mid range on a hard pack trail. I have the same problem with my 09 D8 but I havn't had anything go wrong or have had any flashing at all. I also haven't had the warranty update that everyone has gotten. The problem that you posted sounds just like what I have all the time but I get through it by feathering my throttle and keeping my R's out of the midrange. To me, its either all throttle or no throttle on the trail when getting to the hills. I know this doesn't really help with anything but I just wanted to say that you aren't the only one out there who has been scared of the "mid range bog"
Happy trails
 
I'd guess cold seizure. Sounds like you may have been running too hard, too soon.

I also agree with XC6rider that it is possible that you may of had a mini cold seize, Since you did not find any alum. on the plugs did you notice if any of the spark plugs slightly loose?

It sounds like you need to just keep paying close attention and monitor everything else that is happening since there are still other possibilities.
 
how long were you sitting? these sleds will bog if the pipe is cold. I am not sure on your plug.
 
the spark plug on the exaust side was brown the color i like them too look and my temp was to 115 degrees.... idk there wasent anything on the spark plug but that it was grey and the other one was brown it was a cold seize what all damage would that do???
 
i was playing in the powder verying the throttle.. jump onto the road shut my sled off for not more then a min. and started it up let it idle for idk almost a min and then took off again
 
can i still run it i havent got to look at it yet so i cant tell you in depth on what the inside looks like but if everything looks fine in there... then what run her and see what it does??
 
another thing is is idk if it was about to seize or what but as soon as i hit the kill switch. the track locked and everything was dead so idk what the deal is still havent had enough time to tear into it been busy trying to make money so if it did do somethin im not out for long
 
Snowman#1,

Have you ran it now since you towed it back to the truck? When you say that the track locked up it doesnt sound too good but you can start with a inspection if you want to play it safe like with the exhaust valves removed, or do a compression test, or just start it up and let it run if it will since you did not find any alum. or loose plugs it may be something a little more simple.
 
alright ya ill do that tomorrow got tomorrow off.... is there anything you can run in the fuel for like a injection cleaner??? is maybe one of the injectors pluged or somethin
 
alright ya ill do that tomorrow got tomorrow off.... is there anything you can run in the fuel for like a injection cleaner??? is maybe one of the injectors pluged or somethin

Snowman#1, It is good that you want to be proactive but unless you have some reason to think you have bad or contaminated fuel you should not have to waste your time messing with the fuel. If you suspect the fuel is questionable then I would change it out since there has been a fair amount of bad fuel out there in the last few years.

If you get it running and it runs fine just give it some good warm up time and let it get to over 100 degrees and see what happens. How many miles are on your sled and is it all stock, updates or what kind of mods, or etc. this may help too.
 
that turns the spark plug white?

No, a lean condition will turn the plug white. Gray, is from aluminum deposits.


Cold seizure makes more sense also, now that i see he was in 115 temps. I just assumed since he said it happend a mile from the truck, and the fact that he had to stop and wait for his friends. (leads me to believe he may have been running too hard before it was fully warmed)

I try my best to allow my sled to hit 120 before riding, and then after that, I ride very gently for several minutes. Too many guys will see 120 for a temp then take off hard. It still takes several minutes after seeing 120 before the piston and cylinder wall have quit growing. Coolant may be 120, but the piston may be well below that, especially lower on the skirts (where the quick temp change affects the most, and rapidly)
 
Do a compression test on it see how that looks. If psi isn't matching, or the cylinder is low, pull the valve and take a peek at the piston.


Like R44 says, it may have been something else causing you're bog. Something in the drive system binding or holding up could easily cause a bog, and would also cause more load on your engine, which may have helped contribute to wear in the engine...
 
Snowman#1, Yeah right around 130ish sounds right? What matters most is that both cylinders are very close to each other compression wise. There are some other variables like if one cylinder is wet and one is not the readings will be off but as long ast they are both cloe you will know it is not compression related.
 
Im not sure on the psi with the head, or for you're elevation in general.

The biggest thing you're looking for is that both cylinders are the same, or very close. If you think it's supposed to be 130, I'd like to see both cylinders above 120 and only a few lbs difference between the two.
 
another thing is should a guy pull the monoblock off and make sure there isent anything wrong with it??? i just rebuilt my dads 09 dragon for him so i know what im doing
 
At the least, I'd pull the head and inspect the crowns and cylinder. I'd be better now than losing an entire engine due to crap coming apart!

If nothing else, do the compression check, and inspect the pistons through the valves, or exhaust ports, and also try to get a good look at the entire crown of the pistons. If compression is good, and if the pistons looks good, you might be fine, for how long is the question.
 
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