07 m8 missing coolant ?

[sledheadjake]

I have ridden this sled for about 600 miles so far this year abou the 2nd ride I noticed the antifreeze was a little low so I added to it till on the full line it has been about 300 or so miles since and after my ride this weekend I went to check it and the bottle was empty but there was still fluid that i could see in the very bottom.I have checked the sled and there are no leaks on it anywhere ,Is the antifreeze able to leak out of the coolant bottle when riding?I dont know if this is a common problem with these sleds or I might have a bad seal in motor?When I do get stuck I tend to roll my sled out of the stucks most of the time.

 

[Freeride1]

Look for green juice under the seconday clutch or in the snow under the drivers. I lost a factory hose clamp on my M7 where the left tube in the tunnel connects to the front cooler. Had to pull the track to get the new hose clamp in there because it has a shield riveted over it.

 

[White Rad]

I know that mine will loose a little out the overflow tube when doing a roll-and-go to get unstuck sometimes if its on the mag side too long. If your sure its not leaking i would say there are two options.

1. Somehow you still had an air bubble in the coolant system that worked its way out . I just burped my coolant system after flattening and reinstalling cooler and it emptied the bottle twice before i got all the air out. run it till thermostat opens then put the nose up in the air above the cooler and take the top off collant bottle to burp it out.

2. gasket going south leaking coolant by?? hopefully its #1 or you risk burning it down if its eating coolant

 

[sledheadjake]

So what signs are visible on the pistons or spark plugs if I am leaking the antifreeze in to the motor?

 

[White Rad]

check this recent thread, you might ask backcountryislife for more details on what his symtpoms were but sounds like low end bog with white y pipe and plugs. sled burned down, coolant bottle was empty, he was going to tear into and check for bad gaskets leaking coolant. sounds like pressure testing the case is a good way to check.

 

[sledheadjake]

Look for green juice under the seconday clutch or in the snow under the drivers. I lost a factory hose clamp on my M7 where the left tube in the tunnel connects to the front cooler. Had to pull the track to get the new hose clamp in there because it has a shield riveted over it.

After running my sled on a stand for awhile I noticted that is the same place mine is leaking from also.After I take out the track how do you take off that shield over the hose clamp?Should I just grind off the rivets?

 

[White Rad]

nice thats a relatively easyto fix. those rivets are either 5/32 or 3/16. get a drill bit one size bigger than the rivet and drill the head out, should spin the head right off before you get into the hole in the tunnel. might have to hold it on the back side w/ some pliers. you know easiest way to take track off sled w/ mech. reverse?

 

[sledheadjake]

The head of the rivets are hidden under the fuel tank arent they?I am not sure witch way is the easiest way to pull the track Is taking it out with the diamond drive easier than taking it out with leaving the dd still in place?

 

[White Rad]

you need access to the head of the rivet to put new ones back in. I would put them in the way they came out if it were mine anyways so the rivet is expanding on the back of the hose protector piece and not the thin aluminum. might have to pull tank not sure.

Unless your going to pull dd apart for inspection i think its easiest to take apart the break side to remove track. No removing belt, 2ndary, cowling cover, reverse actuator, DD.... Just undo 5 nuts on inside of tunnel that hold brake assembly on. Then from brake side w/ long extension and 16mm socket undo bolt that holds trackshaft to DD output shaft. Take a small punch or screw driver and pry out the punch on the trackshaft nut the holds brake assembly on. (If you cant get the punch out cut it out w/ dremel or you will trash trackshaft threads. Take nut off w/ four point axle spanner socket. May have to pull that shield that is held on by two allen bolts. Now you can slide the entire break assembly off the shaft (may want to undo a few torx screws on belly pan so rotor clears easier). Note the spacer between rotor and bearing. You might get enough slack with track loosened all the way but you need enough slack to push track up and forward so drivers aren't through track windows (I've always taken the skid out, only four bolts) Then Slide trackshaft toward mag side off DD shaft then down and out. Track will fall right out and done.

 

[sledheadjake]

Just wanted to say thank you for all the help and info.With all the info fromyou guys it was pretty easy fix.