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07 M8 clutching help... Pulling hair out!!

fasta76

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
07 M8 162.

SLP Pipe kit, BDX intake and new powerclaw. Ride between 5000-8000 ft

I started with my old yellow/white in primary with dalton ajustables set to 71 grams. An orange in secondary with 42/36 helix with shift assist and high torque rollers. 7600rpm

Then went with a new yellow/white in primary with 67.5g and shift assist and new orange in secondary with no change.

Now running a cutler gold/white with 67.5g and a OVS torshional with a 42/36 helix with a red/white spring set in the middle hole and outer ring set to the tightest setting and now gettin about 7900rpm.

Any help would be great.. Dont have much hair left!!!!!
 
Ahhhhhhhhhhh ?

so what's the problem ? you want more rpm or less or looking for ?


Lots of different clutching setups for that sled with happy owners depending upon their goals. Can't help unless we know what you want.
 
Need more rpm!!! Slp says to shoot for 8100-8200 RPM so I'm looking for around 300 more.
 
d&d red in primary....or tighter hole in torsional...or try straight 36 helix..or lighten the weight and or possibly redistribute the adjustable screw in the weight towards the tip...??
 
I have no more weight to pull out of the weights!! Im thinking a higher finshing spring but i want to make sure i get the right one!! The one i have now is a 135/305.
 
d@d red i think is 170.340....the 170 puts your engagement around 4400...thats to high...dalton has some 150/340...thats what i use...but you need around a 340 finish...if tighter hole in torsional secondary shoudn;t you get 200 rpm per hole tighter..??...any stock weights around you can drill or grind..??...i have some dalton numbers..i will check for ya...back in a bit...
 
d@d white..135/330 dalton red/black 150 /320...i get engagement at 3700 with 150/320..7850 to 7950 top rpm..but my wieghts are loaded in the heal...your in a differant ball game...looks like the d@d white might be your babe...but CAT has to have something for a spring...??
 
nothing seems likely from cat

ARCTIC CAT DRIVE CLUTCH SPRING CHART
p/n Rate @
2 9/16 in.
Rate @
1 5/16 in. Color
LIGHT 0646-148 53 lb 224 lb Red/Blue
0646-150 72 lb 188 lb Silver
0646-149 74 lb 228 lb Red
0646-376 75 lb 275 lb Gold
0646-147 114 lb 267 lb Yellow/Green
0646-373* 114 lb 267 lb Yellow/Green
0646-155 121 lb 240 lb Purple
0646-229 122 lb 285 lb Yellow/White
0646-248 143 lb 290 lb Orange/White
0646-379 122 lb 285 lb Yellow/White
0646-684 158 lb 290 lb Black
 
i wonder if you would get spring bound if you put a 40_60 thou shim/washer with spring in primary to increase finish..it probably would not affect engagement to much
 
Good call with spring bound...

Use a black marker, see where your rub marks are.

Did you check how high the belt runs in the primary? If the belt doesn't rise to the top of the sheaves, your cup depth might not be quite there. OR the spring your using is too long. Every manufacturer is different.

Are there rub marks on the spider side of the outside of the spring?
Spring cup might be too tight.

Are there any scrape marks in the towers? Buttons worn out?
Do your weights have scrape marks on them? Rollers worn out?

Have you tried a new spider? You might find a dealer with an old M7 spider- they fit.
Or borrow a friend's primary set-up and take it for a rip.
Or swap secondaries on the trail.

Putting more and more spring tension might make your set-up real finiky.
 
How does it run now?

Maybe your RPM's are off by 200. How does it run compared to similar sled? Are your weights free I would do a complete inspection of Primary. Make sure a roller is not wearing out weights are not catching and are free not to tight and also that your spider does not have to much slop.
 
Thanks for all the replys!!

When i went through everything before the season started everything was in great shap! i opened up the spring cup when i instaled the new spring. But i will go through everything agian. Sled runs well but seems like it missing just a little!! And imm sure the 200rpm could be it!
 
your running to much aftermarket **** in those clutches. run cat weights they are different when it comes to the way they are cut. your helix in the sec. is to aggressive. go with straight 36. orings that hold the weight pins centered, take the one behind the nut side and flatten one side so your weights free fall. don't take to much off so that you have slop but just enough that your weights swing easy.

My set up is;

68 gram weights Cat
stock titanium yellow/wht pri
shift assist
rock rollers
orange sec
stock helix
bdx belt deflection adj
 
I put a RK tek clutch kit on my sled....ran the Sno Pro Green in the Secondary and put an Orange/white in the primary.....loved how it backshifted while descending off a climb....Recently purchased the 2010 M8 and already broke the primary spring...I put in a Orange/Black for now...

edit....I ran 68 gr weights pulling 7700 r's at 9,000 ft. and above....fyi
 
Last edited:
I ran a nearly identical setup on my 07 M8 and my clutching was close to yours. I ran stock cat 67 gram weights at 9000 feet and a softer primary spring. RPM at 9000ft was 8050. I had an A/F gauge and Boondocker box. With that setup it is really lean in a couple spots, even at 9000 ft. I would see 15:1+ at 6000 RPM on the stock map. A little tuning may give you the power you are missing. If I remember right I had keep the mid range pretty lean, around 14:7:1 and adjust the top so it was running around 13:1 at WOT. You can easily lose 200 RPM at WOT if you are to rich. Just a thought.
 
Thanks for the help guys!!

I just dont want to keep throwing parts at it!! Im thinking of moving my spring in my secondary to anothe hole! And then maybe play with my controler a little to see what i can get.

The photo is just after install. I have ajusted the outer ring to the tightest setting so if i move the spring to the right one hole that should really ad some twist right?

Thanks agian for the help guys..

clutch 005.jpg
 
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