07 800R clutching

[ole]

There are many post about clutching a 07 800R but none really deal with my issue. I was one of the lucky ones that has a 800R that has ran good since day one but since the update it over revs on top. This thing runs strong out of the hole up to about 50mph running 8300 to 8400 rpm. After that you can feel it "lay over" and it revs up to about 8600 to 8700rpm regardless of snow conditions. As far as updates it had the stiffer primary spring and the clickers are in 3. The secondary has a 44-40 helix and I run this at 8000 to 10,000'. When I took in for the updates I told them I wanted a straight 44 helix because it ran good before the updates and held rpm's. Should I get a 44 helix back in it? If I turn the clickers down it will drop the rpm across the whole shift range, correct? Do I add some weight in the pin or will this affect the whole shift range as well? I can clutch a polaris or cat to prefection but am still learning Doo clutches. Ideas?

 

[Tuesday]

If its running fine then just drop a clicker.

 

[spu]

My 2007 800 R has never had belt problems, but drifting rpm and no top end. Turned out to be wrong weights in the pins from factory. Riding at 6000-8000ft and they were too heavy, being sea level weights. Once I put in 15.4 gr,44-40 helix ( better than straight 44)
spring 160-290, stock ramps, stock gearing. Running clicker 3 and not having to change it much. These engines , being high rpm are sensitive to weigth. Runs extremely well, keeps rpm at 8300 in any snow now, and clutches not too hot.( get rid of the plastic) No complaints other than dealer was useless in solving problem. Had to learn to do all clutching myself, including all updates etc. Very happy with performance. Worth the effort to learn and set up the clutches. Economy is outstanding on this sled.

 

[winter brew]

There are many post about clutching a 07 800R but none really deal with my issue. I was one of the lucky ones that has a 800R that has ran good since day one but since the update it over revs on top. This thing runs strong out of the hole up to about 50mph running 8300 to 8400 rpm. After that you can feel it "lay over" and it revs up to about 8600 to 8700rpm regardless of snow conditions. As far as updates it had the stiffer primary spring and the clickers are in 3. The secondary has a 44-40 helix and I run this at 8000 to 10,000'. When I took in for the updates I told them I wanted a straight 44 helix because it ran good before the updates and held rpm's. Should I get a 44 helix back in it? If I turn the clickers down it will drop the rpm across the whole shift range, correct? Do I add some weight in the pin or will this affect the whole shift range as well? I can clutch a polaris or cat to prefection but am still learning Doo clutches. Ideas?

Click up to 4-5 and add some (.5-1.5g) pin weight. Should give a straighter shift.
Or, very possible that the updated rollers and/or bushings are shot. My updated rollers lasted 400 miles and were junk. Bushings also wearing faster than they should, all adds up to inconsistancy.

 

[Tuesday]

I dont read anything in original post that mentions fluctuating rpms just that he is over reving. Clicking down to setting 2 should bring your peak rpms down.

 

[ole]

You guys have brought up some good pointers and I greatly appriciate the advice!!!. Knock on wood I haven't had the clutch fluxuations like some, 700 miles on the origianl belt and plastic thing was gone day one. So if I turn the clickers down it won't kill the low end since that seems to be spot on? If I add weight to the pin does that affect the whole shift curve? I'm a dummy with the ski doo clutches but I think it is a heck of a good sled

The hard a$$ camo track works a ton better with the supports ground at an angle. There is hope for the track if run powder type snow like I do

 

[ucandooit]

So if I turn the clickers down it won't kill the low end since that seems to be spot on?

Just turn down your clickers, it shouldn't effect your bottom end.