06 M How to swap drivers and brakes/rotor assembly

[likkerpig]

I'm going to be replacing the stock drivers with the BDX lightweight drivers, did a track swap last year so I'm semi familiar with the process.

Question I have is, how do you remove the brake disk and brake calipers so they can be swapped over to the new drivers. I didn't pull them when I did the track swap, just slid the whole assembly to the RH side.

thanks!!

 

[mtn mike on boost]

you need a special socket to pull the brake nut off.you also need to replace that nut when re assembling.
just so happens i have that socket and 2 nuts all brand new never used for sale if interested....mm

 

[G-Force]

I did that same swap out last year, only difference I bought the drivers from BDX pressed onto their lightweight shaft, think it was only like $90.00 and they pressed the drivers on, so I knew the spacing was going to be correct, as opposed to monkeying around with it trying to get them lined up on the new shaft
G.

 

[ndmtnsledder]

When I did mine I did it with the drivers on already. Its not worth it to try and do it yourself I've pressed my own on a few times out of necessity because of a specialized setup to put a 3.0pitch on a firecat but even with all the right equipment its still a huge pain.

 

[moderatebill]

Why can't you reuse the nut? I just did this and reused the nut, but now am worried.

 

[likkerpig]

I bought the ones that were already pressed on, no need to make more work for myself. I was just curious if there was any special steps needed to remove the brake disk and brake calipers. I assume you just need to remove that goofy nut deal and the drive shaft should slide right out. Or be pounded out if it's rusted on. Are there any other bearings or anything like that on that shaft?

 

[bee1971]

Remove DD Gearbox - Remove track off driveshaft like you did earlier (This takes all the weight off that driveshaft)
Reinstall Brake Caliper to chassis (That way when your pounding on the driveshaft , the brake caliper is securely attached to chassis , and the driveshaft will bee absorbing all the impact) and yes there is a good chance it will bee rusted inside the brake caliper bearings

That retainer nut on driveshaft - Can bee removed with a good punch and a BFH if you dont have the special socket
The only reason they want you to replace the nut is , because after it is torqued down on installation , your supposed to drift punch it slightly in the recessed area to secure it in place - Well over time the threads could get a little screwed up if you keep reusing the nut over and over again

Also once you have the brake caliper off , check the two bearings inside the caliper
Thats another project - Your probably better off replacing those also with any miles on the sled

Bee1971

 

[ndmtnsledder]

The nut is also a one time lock nut from what I was told.

 

[moderatebill]

Bee1971 thanks for the good comments. I did as you said on removing the nut with a punch and BFH. The shaft is a bastard to break free, but finally knocked it loose after a couple good swings. I put a pipe inside the shaft and hit that with the BFH so I didn't bugger up the threads on the shaft.

 

[bee1971]

The nut is also a one time lock nut from what I was told.

Not really a locknut at all - A new one can bee spun on by hand

It becomes somewhat of a locknut after you drift punch it in the recessed area of trackshaft , to lock it in place

You can reuse it as long as the threads on the trackshaft nut are still decent.
Once its torqued down your supposed to drift punch the nut again in the recessed area of trackshaft - Well if you keep doing this over and over again with the same nut , your eventually going to screw up the threads and weaken the nut

 

[furthur]

My bearings felt fine, but when I drove them out, they shook water out of them. How do they survive that? They are expensive...$70 for the pair. Prob. good insurance, though.

John

 

[bee1971]

My bearings felt fine, but when I drove them out, they shook water out of them. How do they survive that? They are expensive...$70 for the pair. Prob. good insurance, though.

John

The bearing part # is 6909RS - 45mmx68mmx12mm Sealed Bearing - You can get them on Ebay much cheaper with free shipping , or try your local bearing supplier - I bought 4 of them off Ebay for both Crossfires last summer , total was under $60 for all 4