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06 900 oil level dropping

Newfusion900

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Started sled about a month ago and it was hard to start, smoked, and spewing oil out of the exhaust. I filled the oil tank and let it sit until now and it has only dropped maybe 1/4". Started it up today to move it from the shed to the garage to remove the skid and get the shocks rebuilt and again it was smoking heavy and spitting oil. My question is, is this a center crank seal problem or could a possible sticking oil cable be the issue? Have not changed over to a motion pro cable yet but I am going to do it this week. If it is a crank seal, how long can it be run like that? Will it make it til next summer? Keep in mind I live in PA and the sled will not get ridden as much as your sleds.
 
My guess it's a bad check valve or center crank seal and not a stuck oil cable since you lost oil when it wa in storage (although if you haven't checked the oil cable, you should as it is common).

I'd be leaning towards the center seal. If it doesn't lose oil when the oil is below the line going to the center crank seal, it is the center crank seal otherwise a check valve.

In terms of how long you can run it with a bad center crank seal, I'd replace it before you have to replace the entire engie...it's only a matter of time.
 
How do you determine if it is a check valve or the center seal? Especially since the level drop is so slow. It would take forever to drop down to the crankcase feed line at this rate. I have not looked at the oil cable yet but will do that tomorrow.
 
My guess it's a bad check valve or center crank seal and not a stuck oil cable since you lost oil when it wa in storage (although if you haven't checked the oil cable, you should as it is common).

I'd be leaning towards the center seal. If it doesn't lose oil when the oil is below the line going to the center crank seal, it is the center crank seal otherwise a check valve.

In terms of how long you can run it with a bad center crank seal, I'd replace it before you have to replace the entire engie...it's only a matter of time.

Mine had the exact same issue, the center crank seal. It started slow then would drain down to the crank oil outlet. After that it would run fine, but all that oil was still in the crank. Too much oil in there and it will hydrolock and seize........ center seal or check valve.... it turns your motor to a "not a matter of if, but when" time bomb.
 
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If I remember correctly the center seals can't be changed easily due to the crank having to be split so I guess this would be a good job for indydan.
 
I would siphon the oil out until it's just above the crank feed hose, wait and see if it goes below that line and you will know right there.

As for the motor, he can check your crank run out and determine if its within spec. If it were me, I would have him add the TM1 pto setup on it $1800 and new seals all around and rip it. He will also line bore your cases to match the crank I think

Otherwise could just buy the new 32mm crank from polaris and have that Installed, only issue that crank is not any stronger then the 30mm one, it still uses the huge clutch bolt..but your cases won't be line bored to match..but is like $1000 or whatever they are selling for now a days...

Depends on your budget bro, and we are all hurting I know.
 
I had indydan perform his tm1 update to my 05 motor with the new 32mm crank a while back and he did a fantastic job. The thing is that I just bought this motor used for this sled last year and didn't put many miles on it and was hoping to not have to pull it out so soon, haha. Oh well I would rather pull it for a little oil consumption than it being blown up or have a broken crank. I know this is Dan's busy season and it probably won't get done this year. Like I said before it doesn't get used much but it's my dads sled and I'd like to see him get some use out of it when the snow flies.
 
crank seal is leaking for sure. Might be able to get away with riding it if you don't ride it much unless it's turboed then it will blow oil all over your damn sled. :face-icon-small-dis
 
if it has Dans TM1 on it, i would call him and tell him about it. I know he wont warranty it since its not from his product/work..but he may make an exception and add it to his work load this season.

worth a shot IMO...would prolly be like $300 i would think...just a guess tho..

Dan is the best of the best and stands behind his work and 900 guys..and will go above and beyond..hes helped me when times were bad, trust me ;)
 
Dan's TM1 is on my 05 900 not the 06 900 I am having issues with. Do you guys think if I keep starting it on a regular basis and running it up to temp to try and keep blowing some of the oil out it would be better for it?
 
It's been a while and I've been pretty busy but finally got around to looking at it today. The oil cable is definitely sticking at times. I wonder if this is enough to be causing my problem? Over oiling the engine at an idle and then allowing it to fill the cylinders enough after I shut it down to make it harder to pull over and smoke like crazy and blow oil everywhere when I first fire it up? Any ideas? After I install the new cable I will keep a very close eye on it. Very strange how it was fine for several months in storage and problem appeared after I started it one time.
 
Went to finally start my 900 for the year she didn't want to start and acted like a crank bearing was shot. pulled the clutch side plug and found it covered in oil. looked at the oil tank and it was empty. got it all out of the crankcase and she runs fine now. i'm guessing that it is the check valve that stuck open since it emptied the whole tank. my question is where is the check valve located?
 
Well it seems as if the sticking oil cable was the culprit. Installed a new motion pro cable, after I had to modify the throttle body end, and the sled no longer hydrolocks and spits oil everywhere.
 
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