06 900 Clutch alignment ok???

[Teeoster]

Hi,

New here the last few weeks, and I learned so much from here that I already applied to my 06 900. I found a machine with 178 miles on it and could not resist the $3800 Price and did the leap.

I have done most of the updates discussed on here so far, and am left with the issue of what to do about my clutch alignment? I have a TEAM alignment tool and did the recommended measurements from them, with the tool square on secondary I come up with the primary being .110 off from front to back, engine tilted clockwise in chassis.

To better illustrate this, please see the attached pictures, the distance from y to the clutch is .11 larger than the X.

Is this acceptable?, if it is not what can I actually do about it? From all the posts I have read there is really no adjustment on the mounts of this machine.

One more thing, I have electric start, and I cannot install the SLP Torque arm.

Any and all advise is greatly appreciated.

John

 

[ghostwhite]

Hi,

New here the last few weeks, and I learned so much from here that I already applied to my 06 900. I found a machine with 178 miles on it and could not resist the $3800 Price and did the leap.

I have done most of the updates discussed on here so far, and am left with the issue of what to do about my clutch alignment? I have a TEAM alignment tool and did the recommended measurements from them, with the tool square on secondary I come up with the primary being .110 off from front to back, engine tilted clockwise in chassis.

To better illustrate this, please see the attached pictures, the distance from y to the clutch is .11 larger than the X.

Is this acceptable?, if it is not what can I actually do about it? From all the posts I have read there is really no adjustment on the mounts of this machine.

One more thing, I have electric start, and I cannot install the SLP Torque arm.

Any and all advise is greatly appreciated.

John

If it is as bad as you say it is you may very well be pooched. I don't know what spec is off the top of my head but I would think about replacing your mounts to see if that may be the problem and go from there. You will ultimately benefit from a set of CompFusion mounts regardless.

There are "ways" to compensate for alignment but I don't know how well a person might be able to accomplish this so I won't start rambling just yet.

 

[f15ejedi]

dO YOU HAVE ELECTRIC START ON THAT? i NOTICED THE FLYWHEEL. tHEY MIGHT HAVE LEFT SPACERS WHEN THEY INSTALLED IT. cHECK IT OUT. Sorry about the caps, I'm to lazy to re-type.

 

[Teeoster]

Shims?

Hi,

I do have electric start, where would the shims be that you are speaking of??

Could I Machine off a 1/4" from the left side of the front engine mounting bar, and shim 1/4" on the other side? This would in effect swing the engine over to the left, kinda pivoting off the flex in the rear mounts.

Spec that came with the TEAM alignment tool says .060 difference between "X" and "Y" as shown in the attached picture.

 

[SD Coyote]

I am not familiar with the team tool, but it doesn't seem to me that you have the tool properly installed on the clutches. Is it just me or does anyone else think this as well?

 

[chunkysoup]

I am not familiar with the team tool, but it doesn't seem to me that you have the tool properly installed on the clutches. Is it just me or does anyone else think this as well?

Im not positive either but i think that your rite. I think the tool has to be on the inside sheave? Not sure tho.

 

[river]

Yes on the inside back of clutch ,not were you have it ,got to be flat against the back side of clutch sheave,and the washer are behind the secondary to take out and adjust. for proper off set.

 

[SD Coyote]

I think that you will need to use the polaris alignment tool to properly measure, due to the electric start ring gear on the back of the primary.

 

[Teeoster]

Thanks for the responses

The alignment tool I have just sits squarely against the secondary outside sheave, very simple. I did this correctly.

The tool checks offset, which I was able to adjust with the shims on the secondary shaft.

The tool also checks the parallel relationship between he Primary and Secondary clutches. This is where the issue lies, the crankshaft and Jack shaft are not parallel.

If the measurement between "X" and "Y" in my previous pictures were the same, they would be parallel in theory.

So my question in another form is how do you adjust parallelism between the Crankshaft and the Jackshaft?

 

[ghostwhite]

Thanks for the responses

The alignment tool I have just sits squarely against the secondary outside sheave, very simple. I did this correctly.

The tool checks offset, which I was able to adjust with the shims on the secondary shaft.

The tool also checks the parallel relationship between he Primary and Secondary clutches. This is where the issue lies, the crankshaft and Jack shaft are not parallel.

If the measurement between "X" and "Y" in my previous pictures were the same, they would be parallel in theory.

So my question in another form is how do you adjust parallelism between the Crankshaft and the Jackshaft?

There is no factory way to adjust this. You will have to get creative.

 

[f15ejedi]

You add or remove spacers/washers on the back of the driven clutch. This will bring it out so it will align with the primary. Page 6.22 of the service manual.

 

[Teeoster]

You add or remove spacers/washers on the back of the driven clutch. This will bring it out so it will align with the primary. Page 6.22 of the service manual.

Hi, the alignment issue is not the offset, it is the parallelism between the primary and secondary clutches. adding and removing the shims only adjusts the offset.

Apparently there is no way to adjust for this from what I am seeing here??

John

 

[ghostwhite]

Hi, the alignment issue is not the offset, it is the parallelism between the primary and secondary clutches. adding and removing the shims only adjusts the offset.

Apparently there is no way to adjust for this from what I am seeing here??

John

You are correct there is no factory adjustment to correct for alignment of the crankshaft to the jackshaft.

 

[benamen]

There have been previous posts discussing this problem and what a few have done.
Here is a link to one of the discussions.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181816&highlight=clutch+alignment

 

[rmksledhead]

If that is a team tool i have never seen one that goes on that way.the two i have are curved to match the inner sheave of the primary.The straight part goes across the outside of the secondary.

 

[rmksledhead]

These can be used with electric start because the ring gear is on the backside of the inner sheave.The curved part of the tool fits on the inside of the inner sheave.

 

[welb]

I have the same tool and you are correct(as you know) in how you are using it.I have talked to Team numerous times about this just to make sure I was doing it right because mine came with no instructions.

There is some "kick" built into the motor mounts so that when the motor is under load it lines up better with the driven.If you pull back on the motor you will see that happen.

I think the link in the earlier post is for a sled other than a 900 so the methods they are using will not work on the 900.

 

[Teeoster]

I have the same tool and you are correct(as you know) in how you are using it.I have talked to Team numerous times about this just to make sure I was doing it right because mine came with no instructions.

There is some "kick" built into the motor mounts so that when the motor is under load it lines up better with the driven.If you pull back on the motor you will see that happen.

I think the link in the earlier post is for a sled other than a 900 so the methods they are using will not work on the 900.

Thank you! That was kind of the answer I was looking for.

So here is what I got from this thread:

There are no adjustments on 900 Engine mounts, unless you machine or shim the mounts in some way.

TEAM clutch aliment tool goes on outside of Driven clutch and is good for checking both offset and parallelism if you follow the instructions.

Factory has built in some Kick to compensate for torque and it may be more that the TEAM instructions say is ok.

No one really knows what amount of "Kick" is really ok, becasue it is dynamic measurement that changes based on engine load.

Compfusion mounts are a great upgrade, but still will not allow for adjustment of crankshaft to jack shaft parallelism. (Maybe there could be a eccentric cam type of design built into the engine mounts so it could be rotated a bit and adjust engine location)

 

[SD Coyote]

The polaris alignment tool is designed with what polaris feels is the proper amount of kick (twist) built right in. It is very simple to use, and works with elec start (most won't due to the tabs on the tool). I think you realize that if the shafts were parallel at idle, you would be pulling out of alignment under heavy load. The amount of twist is controlled by your torque stop. This is why a lot of people add stops or pushers ( to stop the twist when they want) to high torque machines such as yours.

 

[f15ejedi]

Adjust it like the manual says then make sure you have the proper gap on the driven clutch and go for it. I would check your mounts if you haven't already just to make sure they are good. Have you been riding this sled before or is it new to you? I came off a 670 Summit and the difference in torque is huge. You can feel the difference.