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06 800 Summit Clutch Problems

I have an 06 Summit 800. The sled is bullet proof and absolutely has no problems... except that i go through a primary clutch once a year. I clean it about every 3 to 5 times a year and i have had to rebuild the whole thing each year. It just simply wears out. Does anyone have any suggestions on maybe an aftermarket clutch? I was considering using Team parts in it this rebuild but i don't know anything about if they are better or not. I put a Team secondary on and have had no problems there, just the stock primary. Please help me with ANY suggestions you might have.
Thanks!
 
I have an 06 Summit 800. The sled is bullet proof and absolutely has no problems... except that i go through a primary clutch once a year. I clean it about every 3 to 5 times a year and i have had to rebuild the whole thing each year. It just simply wears out. Does anyone have any suggestions on maybe an aftermarket clutch? I was considering using Team parts in it this rebuild but i don't know anything about if they are better or not. I put a Team secondary on and have had no problems there, just the stock primary. Please help me with ANY suggestions you might have.
Thanks!

I but thicker O rings and it tightens up the buttons much better than stock, it allow the bottons to stay straight and last much longer.Go to a supply house and take calipers/tools.An extra .002 will do the trick
 
I have an 06 Summit 800. The sled is bullet proof and absolutely has no problems... except that i go through a primary clutch once a year. I clean it about every 3 to 5 times a year and i have had to rebuild the whole thing each year. It just simply wears out. Does anyone have any suggestions on maybe an aftermarket clutch? I was considering using Team parts in it this rebuild but i don't know anything about if they are better or not. I put a Team secondary on and have had no problems there, just the stock primary. Please help me with ANY suggestions you might have.
Thanks!

2x on the bigger O-rings
one of the main problems with the Ski-Doo 800 at an idle it shakes bad (1500 to 1900 rpm) this transfers to the clutch and this is where the clutch gets much of its wear I recommend to bring up the idle to just were it stops shaking so bad (2100 seems to get it out of the shake) to high and it will not come down very well (to fast coming down a hill). You have to idle to warm up the sled but you can keep it at a higher RPM and this will help.
The ones i have set up like that are getting better life out of the clutch.
When you clean the clutch just blow it out with air. (Do not use and cleaners) on moving part it will wreck O-rings and bushings even dish soap will swell bushings. Do clean the face with scotch bright pads (the green one for dishes)DRY
 
A few things....check your crank runout. If it's excessive it will shorten clutch life.
When you say rebuild.....are you replacing every wear component or just what "appears" to be excessively worn? Reason being that if everything in the clutch is not perfect, it will accelerate the wear of other components. If everything is perfect, it should last quite a long time.
Also, clutch setup is a factor. More heat means quicker wear. HUGE pin weight puts more stress on arm pivots and rollers. A moderate spring and moderate pin weight is the best route. I limit setups to no more than a 320 finish on the spring. You can go bigger, but typically need more pin weight to match and this causes quicker wear.
I should add.....this is for everyday mountain setups, I know there are situations that need big pin weight/spring.
 
Do you ever have anything nice to add to posts or are you just a dick to everybody?

How is that being a dick you uneducated punk? If you dont know how to properly rebuild your clutchs(as you have hinted) so they dont go out, you need some help! Dont you? There are people out there that can teach you the tricks( as stated above ) on how to do them. HAVE A NICE DAY!! :lips:
 
A few things....check your crank runout. If it's excessive it will shorten clutch life.
When you say rebuild.....are you replacing every wear component or just what "appears" to be excessively worn? Reason being that if everything in the clutch is not perfect, it will accelerate the wear of other components. If everything is perfect, it should last quite a long time.
Also, clutch setup is a factor. More heat means quicker wear. HUGE pin weight puts more stress on arm pivots and rollers. A moderate spring and moderate pin weight is the best route. I limit setups to no more than a 320 finish on the spring. You can go bigger, but typically need more pin weight to match and this causes quicker wear.
I should add.....this is for everyday mountain setups, I know there are situations that need big pin weight/spring.

very good points brew
Too many people think big spring and more weight is better and that is just not true. When you have them working against one another it will build heat.
Heat is your enemy in clutching also to high of gears will shorten clutch life.
 
How is that being a dick you uneducated punk? If you dont know how to properly rebuild your clutchs(as you have hinted) so they dont go out, you need some help! Dont you? There are people out there that can teach you the tricks( as stated above ) on how to do them. HAVE A NICE DAY!! :lips:

Just like you stated in a differnt thread that some one posted a sled for sale, he even stated that he posted in the wrong area and you told him (learn how to read). I really don't care, I know how to set up a clutch but why don't you either help in the post or don't say any thing at all just my 2 cents, I don't care either way. And you have a nice day TOO. :lips::lips::lips::face-icon-small-hap
 
i am trying to get my 06 clutch set up as well. i dropped a gram of pin weight to try lowering the primary setting from 5 to 3. dropped the weight for the last ride of the year, but still had to run on 5. should i try another gram of pin weight? maybe when the gram of pin weight came out the secondary was adjusted as well?
 
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