Hi I bought a 05 rmk 700 151 last year year with 900 miles on it. this is my first moutain sled so im looking for good starting points with the sled. My First trip last year with the sled a crank bearing locked up within 2 miles. I have since put my 04 slp performance edition 800 motor/pipe in this sled and heading to towotee in a couple of weeks. I would like to know what most are running for gearing in these sleds with this kind of motor setup for mostly boondocking and hill climbing. I also will be using a team tied clutch on this sled so any help with helix/spring choices for 9'-11000' would be great thanks for any help.
05 700 151 help
- Thread starter fullshiftout
- Start date
My setup is from "Pockets" on this site, he is well known for his knowledge.
SLP Twin pipes, stretched to a 159x2.25
Gearing: stock 21/41 but with smaller drivers.
Primary:SLP blue/pink 140/340 and dalton QAP-2 adjustables (69.5g/2000ft, 63.3g/7400ft). belt to sheave clearence at 0.010.
Secondary: TIED with 75-57.46/75-59.46, blk/green 140/220 or red/black 140/240.
A holtzmen ATACC is a godsend, no more jetting. I am jetted 490's with the ATACC.
Green/yellow strip VES springs with stainless valve upgrade: yellow for mountains.
SLP Twin pipes, stretched to a 159x2.25
Gearing: stock 21/41 but with smaller drivers.
Primary:SLP blue/pink 140/340 and dalton QAP-2 adjustables (69.5g/2000ft, 63.3g/7400ft). belt to sheave clearence at 0.010.
Secondary: TIED with 75-57.46/75-59.46, blk/green 140/220 or red/black 140/240.
A holtzmen ATACC is a godsend, no more jetting. I am jetted 490's with the ATACC.
Green/yellow strip VES springs with stainless valve upgrade: yellow for mountains.
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Pockets may chime in and tweak it more for your setup.
These aswell:
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=1111
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=353
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=370
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=366
These aswell:
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=1111
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=353
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=370
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=366
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I was thinking about going with a 73/57/46 73/59/46 helix with a red black spring. I have mtx weights that were used with this motor in a 121 but thinking of using stock polaris 10 series weights since I have so many sets of them to try. This 05 151 comes with 9 tooth drivers correct. thanks
I also just installed a set of 8'' powderhound skis to keep the front end afloat, a huge issue with these sleds. Havent had a chance to test them though.
https://slydogskis.com/shop/category/ski-packages-8-powder-hound/
yes 9t drivers is stock, i have 8t now.
I have heard the polaris 10 series weights are not very good, the daltons are very easy to adjust.
https://slydogskis.com/shop/category/ski-packages-8-powder-hound/
yes 9t drivers is stock, i have 8t now.
I have heard the polaris 10 series weights are not very good, the daltons are very easy to adjust.
Actually the deeper the front sits into the snow, the better the attack angle. With high floating skis, you trench faster because you are always climbing a hill with a steeper attack angle, instead of parting the snow and pushing directly forward with low float skis. SLP powder pros are the better choice. The deep rudder of the powder pros also helps turn the 151 track.
If the high beam switch goes out, it screws with the stator, which screws up the engine. You can unplug the high beam switch from the circuit with a star wrench, to test out whether that is the problem.
You can also gear it down and increase max RPM and therefore sled climbing ability by using a smaller top gear in the chaincase, or a larger bottom gear.
If the high beam switch goes out, it screws with the stator, which screws up the engine. You can unplug the high beam switch from the circuit with a star wrench, to test out whether that is the problem.
You can also gear it down and increase max RPM and therefore sled climbing ability by using a smaller top gear in the chaincase, or a larger bottom gear.
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Well there must be a reason all the new mountain sleds have 6.5-7" wide skis stock compared to these old 5.5". There is a fine line between pushing the sled through the snow and riding on top of the snow. In all actuality the skis don't touch alot of snow anyways when i am on the throttle.
On the gearing side it looks like the 800 151 came with a 21top and a 41 bottom gear vs the 700 having a 19/39. I see alot of people like to gear down but with more motor than a stock 800 would you run the 19/39 or put something a little faster than that in it. I have about every gear and chain option so i can run whatever is best. I would like to have the lowend power but dont want to be dead slow on the trail either and I might be by myself on this one but i like to have a little track speed also.
What elevation do you normaly ride with the 75 57 46 / 75 59 46 helix? Iam guessing if your able to pull that helix with a 159 and a 1/4" more track I should be able to also. Thanks
I have a set of red/white ves springs im thinking about trying. The free lenghth is a little longer but rates look close to the slp yellows i was going to buy.thanks
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