03 800 rmk 151

[ericlowe4696]

ok my riding buddy bought a new sled and im getting stomped what would be some good mods all i have done is a snow stuff can. i would like any ideas u guys have. We are boondocking at 10000 ft also any tuning ideas with any mods. and cheap mods would be nice

 

[ericlowe4696]

he is riding an 09 m8

 

[rmk4ever]

Good luck catching up. Put a turbo on her.

 

[rcbc]

gear it down. chain and gears are under 200. freshen up the clutches. springs and helix are not much more. I went from a 144 to 159 for 1200, that was a night and day difference. tape your throttle wide open, electrical tape works the best. doesnt leave a mess like duct tape and holds better in cold conditions. cheaper too!

 

[whoisthatguy]

1. Drop one tooth on the large sprocket, for climbing mountains. It may require a shorter chain.
2. Add an slp single pipe and you instantly have a 900 equivalent sled, except for the track.
3. Sell the polaris series 4 track and get a camoplast challenger with three rows of 4 1/2 inch wide x 2 inch lugs. The camoplast is at least 50% more efficient than the series 4 polaris track.
4. Set your front limiter straps in the 1 1/2 position by drilling out some new holes. The #1 position is the straps fully extended, and the #3 position is the straps sucked up as tight as you can get them.
5. Repair the rear tunnel cracks that are hidden behind the black plastic side molding. Use 4 structural alum rivets and a 1/2"x1/2"x4" alum angle to span across the crack.
6. Buy SLP powder pro skis because you need the extra deep rudder to turn that bad boy in powder.

 

[ericlowe4696]

Guys thank for the ideas and laughs I will remember the black tape. Now when u say drop a tooth ur are talking chain case right. And I will be getting a new track for next season I'm missing two lugs on the track that I have . If I pipe it will I have to reject and I just did the clutches would I have to re weight as well

 

[whoisthatguy]

Dropping a Tooth
If say you had a 42 tooth lower sprocket, you would change to a 41 tooth lower sprocket. Since the 41 sprocket would then have a smaller diameter, your same chain would have more play that your tensioner would need to take out. The sharper the bend in the chain, the more horsepower you lose to the track because a greater force is delivered to that tensioner, which is robbed from someplace else. Consequently by playing around with it, you can estimate whether a chain with 2 less links will fit. Chain lengths are in even number of links since they alternate from outside like to inside link. Adding an SLP single pipe will not likely change the clutching. Since the SLP pipe allows the exhaust to escape faster, you will also need to allow the oxygen to enter faster. That generally involves just removing the twin air horns inside of the airbox, but leave the flat plate and foam so you don't suck any rags or snow into the intake. With more airflow through the system, theoretically you need slightly bigger jets so that more gas is mixed with more air. You just have to watch the plug color and listen to the engine idle. An optimum jetted engine will give a deep burbly throaty sound, when idling. The optimum plug color is chocolate brown as opposed to either black or light tan. Black is too rich with the jets being too fat. Light tan is too lean with the jets being too small. The jetting may differ between cylinders by 010. The right side tending to require fatter jets. So you don't need two of every jet size within a range. You only need one. If you sled around 10,000 feet, you will probably be up in the 240 to 300 range, for your main jets. The needle position sets you mid range jetting, so if you have bogging or missing problems in that range, you would need to change the needle position. All of the jetting is best done in your shop due to the tendancy to drop things down the wrong hole, or into the snow, when you attempt to change settings on the trail. Then you may have to tow it out.

 

[Goinboardin]

If I were going to spend the money on an SLP single, well I wouldn't. SLP twin pipes pull hard, and unless you ride some significantly different altitudes on a regular basis, they are not a pain in the *** like so many will tell you. I run mine from 9500' to 12500' without issue, and no I am not changing jets when I get up high. These 800's seem to do OK with a little extra fuel (aka when you climb higher than you're jetted for). Just don't run them lean (like try to ride 6000' feet when you're set for 10,000').

As far as beating an 09 M8, that'll be tough. But you can get your sled to be close to his without getting too wild. Sure it won't handle the same, you will work harder to side hill and boondock, but you can certainly still have some fun.

I run 10-60 weights, Team bright green primary spring (150-340), 64/38 .36 ER helix in a Team secondary with a Team black w/ purple stripe spring. Yellow SLP exhaust valves (high altitude reduces cylinder pressure, so the valves don't open when they should if you still have the stock exhaust valve springs). 330 mains, 2004 needles & needle jets in the #3 position. SLP twins pipes (the race version, though I f***ing hate how loud they are, soon to change that). SLP air horn in the air box, SLP flowrites on either side of the gauges to let more air in (I also deleted the speedo and headlight, replaced both with vents). My sled pulls 8000 RPM, so I am soon to drop to 10-58 weights to get that up a little higher, but its still strong even at 8000 RPM.

Use plugs and piston wash to dial in jetting. You want the burn ring on the ground electrode of the plugs to be at the bend. And wash should be finger nail sized clean spots on the piston tops where the intake ports/transfer ports line up. You'll have to either pull the pipe (and probably the Y-pipe) to check this, or pull the cylinder head (I don't how anyone could see wash through the plug hole).

Some maintenance items that can hold you back:
-stuck exhaust valves (need to remove them and clean them)
-ruptured exhaust bellows (they will leak oil/goop out the tops of the black caps if they are ruptured)
-bad driveshaft or jackshaft bearings, either on the PTO side or in the chaincase. If they're OK, shoot some grease in the PTO side bearings.
-bad idler wheel bearings, though you usually don't make it too far if these are bad
-broken or missing exhaust deflector (its like a little fin that cuts a trench in the snow for the exhaust gases to escape into, located just forward of the exhaust outlet).
-bad temperature sensor or one on its way out (sorry I don't have the resistance specs @ certain temps on hand for testing yours)
-dirty clutches. use steel wool and hot soapy water to wash them and the belt.
-worn out clutches. Specifically check weight bushings to see if they are hitting the spider. Also check springs & primary cover bushing. Make sure your secondary has some (between 1/16" & 1/8") float on the jackshaft.

Well, I wrote a hell of a lot more than I intended to. Hope this helps.
What sort of terrain do you ride (trees, big hills, meadows, trails, everything?). What track is on that M8 and is the sled stock?

 

[ericlowe4696]

Thanks for the help he is running a track off of an hcr and has a can on it as well. He had it dynoed at 164 hp