B&M Fabrications Limited Edition Axys Running Boards

Well I just got my art work in from B&M and thought I should share some pictures and get the word out! The fabrication on these is simply beautiful!

At this time, these are a Limited Edition run as the Labor and material makes the pricing higher than the standard tube board. These LE boards have a machined Flat piece that bolts to the tunnel instead of the tubular setup that rivets to it.

I have got a set myself and will do a install write up on here with some pictures and maybe a video.

1: Notice the taller foot well loops. This will aid in less knee and ankle injuries caused by your boot getting stuck in the stock arrangement.

2: The larger spacing reduces snow build up. The machined flat back holds virtually no snow compared to the stock boards and the typical round bar used on other designs.

3: Much stronger design than the stock setup. The machined flat back provides strength to the tunnel.

4: With traction screws installed, they provide an increase in traction during all conditions.

These are simply Bad A&* looking and can be shipped powder coated!

Call B&M today and ask about the LE Axys boards!
612-202-9245
info@bmfabrications.com

Quantities limited!!

Agree completely they are absolutely the best and most thought out boards on the market. Super stoked to try mine out next week

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nomasittinright said:

Agree completely they are absolutely the best and most thought out boards on the market. Super stoked to try mine out next week

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Gorgeous!

Mine are at the Powder Coater now!

Looks like there will be a lot less snow buildup at the rear. Great design!

Question:
I will call Brian in the am... but do these come raw and you have to get powder coated, or is that an option that B&M offers-
Really liking these no sno boards- cause the stock AXYS ones, are no better than the 11-15 pro boards IMHO

S/C

You can get them either raw or powder coated. Raw will be a little less money

X2 like he said! He can have them powder coated before shipping.

Thanks- Black PC for me...
S/C

Those are awesome!!


I ran their boards on my 12' T pro and loved them. Only thing I didn't really like was the tube against the tunnel. It always had some ice around it, this new design is gonna be the ticket.

Got the boards back from the coater and went ahead and installed the traction screws. Please note I used black Kold Kutter Traction screws instead of the Original Gold Traction Screws sent with the kit.

What do these weigh compared to the stock boards?

Bushwacker1 said:

What do these weigh compared to the stock boards?

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I will get both these and the stock boards weighed this weekend, I will post as soon as finished.

Bushwacker1 said:

What do these weigh compared to the stock boards?

Click to expand...

Didn't weigh mine, but I don't think theres much of a difference. These boards WILL TAKE A HIT! Hit a rock, this weekend, so hard on a sidehill my sled went airborne. Definitely would have shattered the stockers. I am definitely happy with my purchase! Also have the BM Fab exo front bumper that is holding up very well.

You guys going to be making shorter boards like what skinz has been doing?

Stock Boards 2lbs 14.8oz
B&M LE Boards 4lbs 15oz

On the stockers... + a bit for the footwell loops you cut off??


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mountainhorse said:

On the stockers... + a bit for the footwell loops you cut off??


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Correct, I did not measure the stirup I cut off. Probably all in all with rivet and hardware they would still be 2lbs heavier. I'm more than ok with it due to the extra strength added plus they will hold less snow which we all know is weight.

Installed my boards this weekend and figured to take some pictures for a write up. Disclaimer: Install is how I felt best done at the time. There may be better ways to do so but I ran into no issues installing these. They are extremely well built and fit absolutely beautifully.

First step is to remove the stock boards.


Remove push pins from both side of sled to get the side panels loose. (clutch tool & push pin from left side)


Remove Rear bolt


Remove front two 10mm bolts and drill out front two 3/16" rivets.


Next drill out all remaining rivets that hold the board on




Next step is to cut off the factory foot loop. I used a sawzall to do this.


For this cut I also used a sawzall, I apologize for not getting a better picture for this step. I first cut through the factory weld, next I used a pair of channel locks to pull the rest of the tube from this location (not shown). After doing so this is what your left with and is ready for clean up.


After using a grinder this is what I had, you can finish this any way you feel necessary.



The next step is up to you, I cut my lip down in order to hold less snow and have a finished look. You can skip this step if so desired but IMO looks much better cut and will not hold snow. How much you cut off is also up to you. I used a cutoff wheel to cut the tunnel lip off.

I only cut the single layer tunnel lip leaving the double section intact for strength. You will see what I mean when you start.






I used a black paint pen to color the cut tunnel to give it a finished look.

Left side cut


Right side not cut


Next step is drop the skid, you do not need to remove it from the track but you do need to drop it. I recommend hanging the rear if possible or find another way to lift the rear.

Next you need to remove the two factory nuts and bracket from the factory over structure. I recommend doing one side at a time.



Once bracket is out you will need to hammer/press out factory bolt from the top hole.


The new provided allen head bolt will be used in place of the factory bolt.



Next you may reinstall factory bracket and bottom fastener leaving it loose until boards are installed.


Next you will test fit the boards, you will want to make sure your new top foot well hoop bolt lines up. At this time bolt up the upper bolt as a test fit. Once tight you can mark you tunnel holes that will need to be drilled.

At this time you will also want to mark your foot plate holes on the new boards. You will waant to drill these holes while boards are removed.


Once marked you can remove the boards and start drilling the tunnel.



Once drilled you are ready to mount the boards. For me, I bolted the foot loop to the tunnel first, followed by the tunnel bolts, then the rear board mount bolts followed lastly my the skid. This worked perfect for both side with zero issues. You will need to drill two holes and rivet the rear suspension bracket to the boards.






Simply follow the steps on the other side to complete the project.

Nice write up! Fit and finish looks nice.

That is exactly how I do it. Nice work! It makes me happy to know that there are more people out there who honestly care about attention to detail....even the littlest ones. People like that are getting fewer and farther between. I see you went to the effort to coat the over structure as well.

Bryan

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