Suspension setup/theory

[bopper]

Hey guys looking to fine tune the suspension on my 14 800 turbo this year. Currently I have the floats in the front and have zero pro coil overs in the rear with a z bros coupling block. I would like to make my front end feel lighter when riding in the tight trees , what setups do you guys run? Also how much air in the front shocks?


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[High Country]

Nice rig bro !!
Can't help ya on the suspension till I get some seat time out east or west !!

 

[predator800]

This what I've been told by a couple professionals. Without scales to set up your suspension.
Front shocks: should have 1" sag. Put a zip tie around the shaft(not proper word I know) right where it enters the shock, lift the front of the sled and measure the distance. Should be 1" of sag.
Rear suspension: press down on the sled as much as you can a few time and let it rise on its own. It shouldn't go all the way back. Then take a measurement off you rear bumper. Stand on you sled , preferably with all your gear. Measure again and it should drop 1.5" to 2 ". If not set the preload til it does. That should give you good back country set up. Skis should feel lighter and the sled should jump out of the snow better.


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Edit. That would be with suspension uncoupled.

 

[bopper]

yea it rides well, I rode it all last season is. I just find with the powder pro's the steering can be heavy when stop and go in the tight trees.

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

I have 200 miles on my 2014 162 limited and I have been out testing the past 3 weeks...With stock skis front shock setting works best for me at 75#.... With a more aggressive ski I decreased the shock pressure to #60.....Higher shock pressure equals more ski pressure while lower shock pressure equals less ski pressure...I also played with the limiter and found the 2nd to last hole works best...I also went a 1/2 turn softer on the center spring....and the rear shock is set at 145#.

 

[Chewy22]

I also went a 1/2 turn softer on the center spring....and the rear shock is set at 145#.

About how many threads showing with 1/2 turn softer? I've moved mine so not in stock position any longer.

 

[suitcase]

does the coupling block hender your rear skid preformance in the trees?

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

I tested Mohawks ( very similar to PP ) Big No No...After testing Stock, Mohawks & Grippers the grippers work very well.

DPG

 

[polarisfornow]

I have 200 miles on my 2014 162 limited and I have been out testing the past 3 weeks...With stock skis front shock setting works best for me at 75#.... With a more aggressive ski I decreased the shock pressure to #60.....Higher shock pressure equals more ski pressure while lower shock pressure equals less ski pressure...I also played with the limiter and found the 2nd to last hole works best...I also went a 1/2 turn softer on the center spring....and the rear shock is set at 145#.

I'm sure that's a good setup for aggressive meadow riding but are you getting any real transfer with the skid so stiff. Mine would just treanch like that. I run just a shade over 110 in the rear and I can just tractor around on top of the snow. Unless you weigh like 260 then it would work.

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

I'm #270 dressed ready to ride.

DPG

 

[polarisfornow]

I'm #270 dressed ready to ride.

DPG

I'm right at 200 fully suited up with backpack snd everything.

 

[backcountryislife]

No number any of us give you will be a ton of help... snow, rider weight, preferences... lots of variables.

I prefer a light front end, and enjoy riding skis up, makes the sled feel better to me.

I tend to let limiter out a notch or two from stock, set skis up with 1-1.5" sag, and set up rear shock for transfer, which setting up center for sag/ weight.

I tighten up center, and loosen rear... go till it's a bit out of control, then back it off a tad till I find the happy medium.

One thing to keep in mind from what predator said above... my only disagreement, 1" at the shock shaft isn't 1" on the machine, leverage rate changes that, so I measure from the machine or I'd be about 3/4-7/8" on the shock (I'm thinking ratio is about 1.5:1... I'm sure someone will correct me, that's just a guess) Either way, just take that into consideration.

My approach is rather different from most... some folks hop off my sleds feeling like they're a bit loose, but nobody hops off without a smile

 

[polarisfornow]

I kinda like my set like yours bcil. Make the track do the work and keep the skis in the air. Sled just feels lighter and make responsive. I've tried several sets of skis and for what I can tell none of them make much of a difference in the air.

 

[predator800]

does the coupling block hender your rear skid preformance in the trees?

Coupling causes your rear shock to work with your centre shock. Coupled keeps skis down. Stiffens up rear suspension. Good for climbing. Uncoupled rear suspension collapses easier letting skis come up. There is a little more to it but that's the basics.


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[bradburck]

I am with Kaleb on this one for the most part.

I run with limiters all the way out and decent pre-load on the front track shock. I also prefer a bit less air in the rear shock then most and run between 110-125 lbs. I think it is important to get the skid out of the tunnel and let the track do the work.

I have longer shocks then needed in the front with the bdx front end, so I use less pressure then most to get the same result, but usually keep the front end low enough in pressure to get a bit less sag then you guys at about 1/2 inch or so.

I re-drilled the mounting location for my front track shock to give that a try this year. It gets the skid out of the tunnel a bit more. I want the front track shock to handle the initial contact without bouncing, but then have enough pressure to extend all the way out in the softer snow to get the sled up out of the snow. I want my skis 6-10" out of the snow on a straight climb, makes it fun but manageable.

everyone is a bit different, but that is what I like.

 

[suitcase]

I know what the different types of supension are and what they do, I have holtz and timbersled rear skids on sleds. What I don't have is a discription of how well the Zbros block functions in the trees, Does it completely disable the sled from being functionable, or is it something you can live with untell you pull up to a steep climb. Im not wanting to spent the money on another rear skid this season, Im having to build two new sleds this season. one is a turbo, I am wondering how it is working or how it is not working in the trees. Ive never gone the cheap route before.

 

[slyrydr]

I tested Mohawks ( very similar to PP ) Big No No...After testing Stock, Mohawks & Grippers the grippers work very well.

DPG

are you saying that you didn't like the mohawks ? what were your concerns, riding trails, soft snow, crusted snow ? i just bought a pair, but haven't mounted them yet....i've tried pp's and didn't like them when the snow got hard on ridge lines or when crusted for some reason....tell me more

 

[Dam Dave]

Dump the powder pros, way to aggressive and too much float

 

[slyrydr]

Dump the powder pros, way to aggressive and too much float

...yeah, i quit using the pp after 4-5 rides last year, and went back to stock...slp told me the mohawks were less aggressive, more like the slt ski, but with more float..

 

[bopper]

I know what the different types of supension are and what they do, I have holtz and timbersled rear skids on sleds. What I don't have is a discription of how well the Zbros block functions in the trees, Does it completely disable the sled from being functionable, or is it something you can live with untell you pull up to a steep climb. Im not wanting to spent the money on another rear skid this season, Im having to build two new sleds this season. one is a turbo, I am wondering how it is working or how it is not working in the trees. Ive never gone the cheap route before.

I only rode with the z bros coupler in June but I liked it a lot the sled was in control on climbs and I had no problems in the trees. I haven't had it in good powder to try yet but I was just looking for tips in case I want to make adjustment


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