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Stop, drop and roll

rmk727

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Oct 3, 2008
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SO.DAK
I understand mechanically what a D&R does but just what does it do to the handling of the sled, why does it go better in the pow, is it worth it? What are the draw backs?
 

Hardass

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Troy Montana
Moves it down and back gives you a lot flatter attack angle. this lets you climb up on the snow instead of sawing in to it. i have seen people go to far though then the front gets real heavy when not fully on the gas. there is a balance between not enough and to much.
 
S
Mar 11, 2009
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If you D&R the chaincase and change to larger drivers (re-gearing accordingly) then you dramatically flatten the attack angle. If you do the D&R without chaging to larger drivers (or if you D&R too far) then you run into the issue of the track rubbing too hard on the metal guards at the top of the front torque arm. If you drop the skid to deal with that issue you start defeating the purpose of dropping the chaincase for better attack angle.
 

J-Dog

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D&R is not worth the work you put into it I put fastrax D&R on my 08 D8 and I couldn't tell a differance . There are better things to spend your money on like intake , reeds , pipe ,clutching and gearing .
 
S

Spaarky

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Oct 5, 2001
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I would strongly disagree. I love the effects of my Fastrax DR. It was a fair amount of work, but I was tearing into mine anyway. I think it was alot of bang for the buck... in comparison.

intake , reeds , pipe

I would take the drop and roll over any of those 3, easily. IMO, unless you have a controller, those 3 are a waste. Intake may help on handlebar deep days.
 
with a d&r it will allow the sled to tractor up the hill better, the stock dragon goes from moving to stuck in the blink of an eye, with a d&r the lesser approach will allow the sled to stay up on top of the snow and moving. with a proper approach angle the track is packing the snow before it takes a bit to go forward, the stock dragon approach is just over 30 degrees which is almost 8 degrees over the optimum approach angle, being this steep pushes the snow aside and slows track speed, and then your stuck
 

Hardass

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Just dropping the rear will throw things out of wack. the only way would be to move the skid up in the chassis which would impreove the attack angle but no clearance so the only way is to move the drive shaft down. there are lots of kits out there i'm sure. i did a hrp on my edge and it is only a 5/8 drop but it did help noticably. With the newer sleds i'm not sure how much room there is for a drop before you are moving the jack shaft into the tunnel. i have seen drops that leave the driver hanging below the bulk head not good for me though. (hitting stuff) The new dragons do seem like they go pretty good then it's over as stated,With the steaper angle the track is trying to claw it's way UP on to the snow and giving your front end to much lift, going up instead of forward.
 
Who makes the best kit? Or are there kits made for this sort of thing?

fastrax and fabcraft both make D&r kits, the fabcraft kit requires welding on the bulkhead which is a bad thing because it takes strangth away when you apply heat to the heat treating in the bulkhead and makes it weaker. the fastrax kit requires no welding and includes stainless laser cut reinforcement plates to strangthin the bulkhead.
 
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