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SLP Twins for 2009 800 Dragon??

IQ?

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Anyone get em to work?
Alot of sets in the swap- are they waste of money or cant guys set em up
i have a set lying around from a sled i traded in and planning to give em
a try.
i have the SLP ecu also.
Former owner said they wouldnt pull Rpm.
Any input.
BTW im putting em in a ported engine
ED
 

SLDHVN

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Get ahold of F-Bomb on the forum here. I was going to do the same, he is very knowledgeable about the twin set ups. Also take a look at his better boards website, under the digiatron section there is some awesome reading about tuning with egts(i am assuming thats what you will be using).
 

AndrettiDog

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I've heard that they run awesome when you get them setup. But they are temperamental and require 50% race fuel at a minimum. You also have to do some work under the hood to make them fit. I think you have to remove the monoblock cylinders but you would have to check with SLP. Hardly sounds worth it to me.
 

F-Bomb

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If you do it the Carl's Cycle Sales way completely and keep your octane right at proper mix for your set up it is the most outstanding performance mods you can do the 800 for the little amount of money. Well worth it and kills an SLP single pipe/clutch kit pump gas setup.

Most of the ones you see for cheap are there because guys thought they could install the pipes and go. That isn't how it works. The finniky part is getting the package right to start with and then keeping your fuel correct. I experimented around with all kinds of variations of heads 09 and the new style but none worked as well as the original 09 with a carls cut.

The best setup I found require:
09 head and head mod for your alt and what octane you want to run
a clutch kit from Carl's
remap
EGT's
95.5 octane at 5000-8000 feet average 10-30* (this is what most would call a 50% race gas head)

You must be very precise on your octane level to achieve a consistantly high performing 800 twin.
 

IQ?

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What flash did you run? Carls or SLP?
You know i cant send parts all over the world (Living in Sweden)
For porting,headcut and custom reflash....
i know Carls is really top notch and i have never heard a bad word
or dyno# either from them.
I dont care about dyno#
as long as my sled rips-and make the other high hp monster go home...
Im gonna go with BradW 12:1 Head,my own porting Cyl-heavy case mod.
and single ring pistons(Ihave loads of them after the updates)
Nothing wrong with em-just make the clearence right.
Ihave some Monoblocks i have ported and re-nick to my spec.
after some expensive lessons learned....

*What egts do you run? especially in mid cruising speeds?
*Flash?
*RPM?

Idont care about clutching-your conditions dont comply over here...
We have our specs.

BTW Rob do you have any BB black in stock for 155"
Price?
thanks
Ed
 

F-Bomb

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12.1 you must be riding at a very low alt?

Do you have access or knowledge of Power Commander? I'd say that is your best bet since you are porting and running an unknown head setup. I'd run an ecu with 08 or 09 maps and sensor settings. The 2010 setups with the updated heads throw codes and mess with your timing making it almost impossible to find a good combo. Then control your fuel with the controller and an EGT.

My EGT reads are based back from ideal at full throttle 20 second pulls.
So lets say that is 1270 and 1300 full soaked 20 seconds. Then I want 80-90% of that at instant/short duration reads from 6000rpm to full. They will roll up to perfect heat if you let the duration run up to 20 seconds minimum. Some times holding it for minutes (like playing in a deep powder meadow) at mid to 3/4 you will get a hot soak. Obviously this is where people fry things so it's a good time to test and be able to run up some fuel in that area if you see it. Its somewhat of a performance sacrefice because some setups will heat soak and go danger lean on long duration but still be fat and poor performing in short duration heat cycles. It confuses most amatuer egt runners and tuners. That's do to poorly engineered systems with combos that aren't ideal (head, porting, fuel, timing, exhaust). That is probably the number one reason to simply buy what is done and proven to perform.

Remember your egt reads are independant to your engine and your engine alone. Reports tested against your plug reads and expected RPM results from your system.

buy a simple digatron 2 window egt and learn how they work...very valuable..NO WAIT I"D SAY INVALUABLE AND MANDATORY ON THESE MOTORS IF A GUY IS GOING TO DO ANY FUEL ADJUSTING OVER STOCK.

We always have boards of everyone of the 28 models in stock and shipping daily. We started the season's production 3 weeks ago and the machines are running day and night. We manufacture about 300 sets a week at peak. You should also check out our new chromoly replacement foot bed support bars for the Polaris IQ RAW. The combo is awesome on that sled and hugely improves the stiffness of the chassis so it's quicker. You know how awesome the PRO is for handling?..well if you compared the pro to the iq raw in this photo you wouldn't buy a PRO. Of course not fair as total custom holz sled versus stock but the PRO takes alot of it's cool new suspension and ride aspect directly from this sled. Shoot me an email and i'll set you up for a dealership deal on Better Boards and or Bars. If you need EGT's or any other parts I can put those in the box as well. Rob
Polaris.jpg
 

IQ?

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Yes of course i have egts- im only looking for#to look for.
On My turbo it wont run under 1300 and i have
Seen Max of 1510f!!!
But thats because its blows to much unburned duell
That burns in y-pipe.
À NA motor would be toast àt those #
I think turbos are to expensive and to overkill
Àt our elevations 6500 is the highest we get!
4000-4500 is normal mountains here
Id like à more snappy less expensive
Combo that works for the average
Tuners .
Dependable 170hp with pump gas/additive.
I have à race turbo also but its overkill àt low alt
Funny in the open but to sluggish
When you detune it for low alt/pumpgas.
I have pc5 with auto tune also.
Big seller for low alt..
I have some old -09 flash
Will try when snow falls-btw we have
Snow on the peAks here now!
2 inch!!
Let it snow!!
 

F-Bomb

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We had an entire white mtn a week ago. Yesterday it was 103* in town! We never really ride until December...which is ok since I need to get through the sled show season. If I'm out riding I might scratch :face-icon-small-hap our display!

The good news here is we are finally having a fire season. We have three good burns going right in the prime riding spots and that just makes things awesome when the snow gets here.

BRIEF EGT REPORT USE LESSON FOR EVERYONE:

You almost have to disregard the thought of an actual number on your gauge. One thing you might try is replacing the Y pipe on your turbo and place the probes further out and hopefully you won't see those radical numbers. As far out on the Y as you can get without mixing the gasses. 1/4 inch towards the motor from the split is ideal. You should experience less radical reads. I also put mine on the bottom of the Y so they are not getting hammered when you are in there working on stuff. My 8 twin pipe is perfect at around 1350 ish while my 660 is perfect at 1175 max 1200. The point is they are not relative to each other. In a sense your individual jugs are not relative to each other either. It's hard to get used to especially if you only ever witnessed reads under 1300 on alot of sleds. I run 4 sleds with EGT's and they all mean something different.

The numbers do not mean state of tune...they are simply something in scale that you can relate to. They could just as easily be in a color coded scale. You have to test and compare your reads to your plugs at multiple RPM's and also at different durations of those RPMs to figure out what your real state of tune is.

You are right about the altitude. A 6lbs (I am relatively positive that is the max pump gas boost for that low of alt) pump gas turbo at 4000ft has almost nothing on a really good running twin pipe. The normally asperated isn't starving yet at that alt. I have to switch setups to be ideal when we run at 3-5 versus my everyday setup which is designed for 5-8. A little bit can be done simply with octane but it's best with a tuner or different map. You can also use your ethanol wires as a slight fuel enrichener for alt changes. It's all pretty experimental with lots of variables that must be in place. I think that is why so many people have negative experiences with twins.
 

IQ?

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Thanks for the answers Rob
Real good info.
Yeah i know egts are hard to read
Sometimes you need to stick à piston
To know were you reach the limits.
I like turbos and always have-and realize
After riding with BurandtBackcountryAdv.
Last year they are à must àt 10kfeet and up
His racegas Assault felt like à 170hp sled
Àt that alt.and the stage 3 mods like 115-120hp
Àt our alts.we ran 10-58 weights in the stock
Spare sled....we run 10-68s...àt our alt.
Quite à diff.
 

IQ?

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Time for update on this thread.
Had my Burandt Replica out for a rip this weekend
Twin piped with our porting and BradW head
I must say it absolutly f****** ripped!
The pull at 8350-8500 ihave never felt from a NA twin before.
Thanks F-Bomb for some good advice(and good products)
Ed
 
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C

Clarke673

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I have the same exact set up and my sled is running awesome. All i need is to work on my super fat low end power and set my TPS. My sled hauls ***. I am running a stock ECU and letting the PCv +auto tune get it close to dialed in for me. I am running at 6500 feet currently, experiencing no DET, and i am running a 13.5 comp head. I am running 91 no corn added, and it runs better every time i go out. I order a clutch set up from Fastrax so once i get that in i will be in nirvana. It is crazy how muich usible power i have. Soem twins only make power at WOT, thease things pull hard from 50% to 100 % throttle.


FYI to anyone doing a twin pipe install, do your self a favor and buy a 8mm hex head socket with a ball on the end….and it better be a long one.

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IQ?

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Ok Clarke anymoretuning?
I have installed pc5 and autotune now just like you( i want the most out of this sled)
What afr are you running?
Slps or own?
Now after break in it runs fatter and fatter i think i need some negative#
on top.
Ed
 
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