new team gears, and chain- tension and extra washer?

[ullose272]

just got my new team 19/43 gears and 74p chain. got them on but barely. there is no slack, the adjuster is all the way out and theres no very very little slack. is it because it is all new? and the bottom gear came with a washer i can only imagine goes behind the gear after doin some measuring. is this right?

 

[ullose272]

anyone?

 

[HUNDO]

Don't know what you're running (sled wise) but mine takes a 76p for a 19/43 setup. And yes, the washer goes behind the bottom gear

 

[ullose272]

edge chassis

 

[ullose272]

so i was thinking i could take a little material off the tensioner so i can get a little more slack in the chain?

 

[HUNDO]

...or you could get the correct chain for your setup. Something's wrong if it's that tight.

 

[INDEEP]

If you have a 74P chain your using the correct chain for a Edge chain case. There is very little slack in the 19/43 gear combo. I think that's a advantage, less of a dog leg in the chain.


May have to zoom in on this:

 

[ullose272]

that is not the problem, i have the bolt backed all the wat out, i can just get the tensioner on, barely. but thereis like no slack. after looking at it im goin to shave alittle material off the tensioner so it can back off a little bit more, im sure it would be fine if it was a used chain but it is brand new as are the gears so there is no wear or strech

 

[skibreeze]

that is not the problem, i have the bolt backed all the wat out, i can just get the tensioner on, barely. but thereis like no slack. after looking at it im goin to shave alittle material off the tensioner so it can back off a little bit more, im sure it would be fine if it was a used chain but it is brand new as are the gears so there is no wear or strech

It won't take too long to stretch the chain, and you don't need any slack in the first place. JMO.

 

[ullose272]

so you would just run it?

 

[HUNDO]

It seems I must be wrong about it being too tight...I had the same issue when trying to run a 74 on a 19/43 and was afraid to run it like that. Seems like grinding/shaving material off the tensioner is asking for problems but then again, I could be wrong about that too

 

[skibreeze]

so you would just run it?

Poo does tend to screw the pooch on alot of chit, but I would run it.

 

[ullose272]

It seems I must be wrong about it being too tight...I had the same issue when trying to run a 74 on a 19/43 and was afraid to run it like that. Seems like grinding/shaving material off the tensioner is asking for problems but then again, I could be wrong about that too

its in an area of the tensioner that shouldnt be "load bearing" and shouldnt give up any structural integrity

 

[Ten-Zing]

Grind the heel of the tensioner a little bit. I run a 20/43 in the same chaincase.

A 19/43 combo = 62 gear teeth 62/2=31.... add that to 42.24 and it equals 73.24, which is how much chain length you need, round up to the next nearest even # equals 74.

How'd I get 42.24?? chaincase length center to center = 7.92" A chain has to span that distance twice, once up, once down. A chain pitch is .375" long between pins. So 7.92" x 2 = 15.84, divide that distance by .375" and it equals 42.24, which is how many chain pitches it takes to span the center to center distance (7.92") twice. Then of course counting gear teeth totals (top and bottom gear) and dividing by two is because the chain only engages half a gear at a time, and each tooth requires a chain pitch (.375")

Anyhow, going to bigger gears fills the space and the tensioner gets in the way, grinding it back is not a problem, been running it for 5+ years.

 

[Ten-Zing]

Oh, BTW.

Don't install your gears right away with the chain on. Throw both the top and bottom gear on, then use a straight edge against them. One gear will be further out than the other (most likely) you will shim one gear out to basically be the same as the other. Don't just generally throw the stuff on and put a washer behind on arbitrarily. THe shims you put behind a secondary clutch on the jackshaft obviously work. Shim the gear that is further in until the straight edge shows each gear to be flush. This extends gear/chain life when the gears are squared to each other.

 

[winter brew]

If you can get the gears/chain installed by hand then it's not too tight.....and it will stretch a bit. Put ONLY the gears on, install the bolts and lay a straight edge across them to see if you need to do any shimming.

 

[Ten-Zing]

His problem will come from sliding in the tensioner arm. After installing the chain and gears it's got slack. But when you slide on the arm it becomes very tight, in fact, the arm won't fit if you have a 20t top gear with a 43 bottom. The heel of the tensioner needs to be ground down where it interferes with the outer wall of the chaincase. If you grind off little by littler until it fits just right with a little bit of chain deflection there becomes no need for a tensioner bolt. Rather the bolt becomes basically something you install as a plug.