M7 rear suspension ? RUBBING??

[biggdaddy]

I have a 2006 M7 162track that I am having problems with the rear suspension of it is bottoming out and sounds like the track is hitting the tunnel. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I had blown shocks and I also put on the heavy duty springs. I am a big man at 6'3" and 300 lbs. The problem also sometimes is that I can stop and push down on the rear suspension and it will go all of the way to the bottom with one finger and stay there. And I can get back on and go for a short little ride and it will go back to normal. I am not sure what is actually taking place and am not sure I want to take it to the dealer and let them tell me, they told me last time this heavy duty springs and rebuilding the shocks would fix it and now two rides latter I have the same problem. I would greatly appriciate any feedback or do I need to look at aftermarket for my size. Again any help would be great. Thank you.

 

[DonoBBD]

Is this a used sled that you bought? A lighter rider could have moved the lower spring slider back lighting up the spring rate. Take a look and see if there is two holes and the slider is in the rear hole.

 

[bgs8379]

06 m7 153

I have a 2006 M7 162track that I am having problems with the rear suspension of it is bottoming out and sounds like the track is hitting the tunnel. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I had blown shocks and I also put on the heavy duty springs. I am a big man at 6'3" and 300 lbs. The problem also sometimes is that I can stop and push down on the rear suspension and it will go all of the way to the bottom with one finger and stay there. And I can get back on and go for a short little ride and it will go back to normal. I am not sure what is actually taking place and am not sure I want to take it to the dealer and let them tell me, they told me last time this heavy duty springs and rebuilding the shocks would fix it and now two rides latter I have the same problem. I would greatly appriciate any feedback or do I need to look at aftermarket for my size. Again any help would be great. Thank you.

Biggdaddy , i have the same problem did you ever get yours fixed ?

 

[biggdaddy]

rubbing

Yes, sled was purchased used. It did have a smaller rider maybe 175lbs. Not sure what spring your talking about? More information would be great. Any more info would help alot thank you.

 

[superfast]

Most likely your shocks have gotten water in them and when they get cold they lose pressure just have to rebuild them

 

[dhart]

Even when your shocks are rebuilt and you install stiffer springs, you will still notice that sometimes your suspension is easily compressed and then is stiff at othertimes. This happens when only the rear idlers are touching the snow. All of the weight is transferd to the rear arm and the suspensions collapses. Move your sled forward a few feet until all the track is touching and you'll find that the problem is gone.

This is not really a problem, because when you are riding your track runs over these uneven spots at speed and the suspension does not collapse. Pull a wheely and you'll fins your suspension totally collapses the same way.

One way to help this problem is to make sure you track is loose when you are adjusting your suspension. That way you don't confuse track binding for a tight suspension. Good Luck.

 

[polaris660rmk]

Even when your shocks are rebuilt and you install stiffer springs, you will still notice that sometimes your suspension is easily compressed and then is stiff at othertimes. This happens when only the rear idlers are touching the snow. All of the weight is transferd to the rear arm and the suspensions collapses. Move your sled forward a few feet until all the track is touching and you'll find that the problem is gone.

This is not really a problem, because when you are riding your track runs over these uneven spots at speed and the suspension does not collapse. Pull a wheely and you'll fins your suspension totally collapses the same way.

One way to help this problem is to make sure you track is loose when you are adjusting your suspension. That way you don't confuse track binding for a tight suspension. Good Luck.

true also i hear my track rubbing somtimes when it is to loose. just my .02

 

[biggdaddy]

Checked track

We checked the track and it was really lose so we adjusted the track and two different riders tried to ride it to see if it was just me or what and even with my son 15 years old and maybe 145lbs it was still doing the rubbing thing. This sled is the cleanest M7 I have seen. Just not sure this sounds just like the track is running up against the tunnel or something this is not just occasionally it is happening with almost every bump or whop. Anymore help would be greatly appriciated. Thank you.

 

[m1000snowman]

same with mine

mine rubs the same, its not that bad but normal from the day i bought it

 

[Shelfrost]

If your hifax is worn down the track will rub on the underside of the front shock in the skid. I am 250+ with gear and had same issues with m7. Bent 2 arms where the top idlers sit from slamming into the rails. You need to get your rear shock revalved for your weight. I put a Timbersled rear skid in and had the rear shock revalved for a 300 pound rider. It is working awesome now. Watch the video on the Timbersled website. I liked the theory behind it.

 

[mtnmax97]

learning curve

I think you just need to lose some weight and stop consuming all the that high frutose corn syrup.
Did you not learn anything this weekend

Just go buy a M1000 and it will ride much better

 

[cowkiller]

Tighten your front spring on the rear up. Mine did that a lot then I tightened the spring up and the problem still only happens once in a while in the really bumpy stuff.Tells me I need to rebuild,
If you tighten too much the sled will want to go straight on you,because you have taken all the pressure off the skis. loosen until you find where you like it.
Sometimes the lock nut will vibrate loose and the spring slowly works it way loose. Tighten it up and I think you will find it much better to ride as well.

 

[spomey]

check the inner most drive lugs/nubs on the inside of the track are they worn?

have you had the rear skid out?

Check the front mount of the rear shock....make sure it is above the stationary pivot point and not mounted below it.

It can assemble in the wrong direction easily and do very wierd things.

spomey

 

[biggdaddy]

still looking

I am looking at all of the things that everyone has mentioned. Thanks for the feed back but I still do not see anything out of place or worn yet. The dealer opens today and I am going to check with them and see if they are going to back up the shocks that they rebuilt 2 rides ago. Anymore help would be greatly appriciated. Thank you again.

 

[AZ800]

So, did you say that you cranked up the spring pressure on the front skid spring?
My wife's M7 has always been set as soft as it would go front and rear (stock shovk valving, never even had them out of the skid, and at 1500mi, niether shock is blown yet).
Last weekend I rode the M7 for a day and noticed it bottomed out real easy (I'm 200lbs + gear). Took the front spring up about 3/4 way and the torsions springs all the way up and it cured it over all but the worst hits to the front of the skid.
WIth you being 300+ lbs, I'd imagine the front spring is not stiff enough for you even maxed out on adjustment.
I know what you were feeling....it would feel like the track ratcheted for a second when the susp took a hit.
I know, not what you were describing, but shelfrost mentioned the track rubbing on the front lower shock arm. This was a problem as well, but it is just a vibration you can feel in the running boards. Real evident in the soft snow on mine. If it's happening, you'll see where the driver lugs on the inside of the track are hitting this arm. There's a sleeve over that shaft. I cut out the sleeve on the bottom, still keeps th shock centered, btu the vibration is gone.
Also, remember, even if your shock(s) are blown, the susp should still hold you up, just no dampening. Shocks, although the y do provide a small bit of support, rebuilding the shocks won't really make the suspension harder to compress, just control the bouncing better.

 

[Samurai]

Save yourself the time and frustration go with a ZBROZ rear shock. It will be set-up for your individual specifications.
Rubbing issue question- Do you see any inner guide lug damage on the track? Like bruiseing or wear to the little nubs.
Check to see someone hasn't flopped over the shock arm. It changes the geometry of the shock set-up and doesn't allow smooth movement and causes the shock crossover to hit the track. Also it is hard on the shock seals and causes premature wear.
Good Luck
Tosh

 

[biggdaddy]

thanks

thank you I am doing some more checking on everything that everyone has talked about. I will post what I find and what seems to be the problem and the solution. Thanks again.

 

[Burndown1]

If your hifax is worn down the track will rub on the underside of the front shock in the skid. I am 250+ with gear and had same issues with m7. Bent 2 arms where the top idlers sit from slamming into the rails. You need to get your rear shock revalved for your weight. I put a Timbersled rear skid in and had the rear shock revalved for a 300 pound rider. It is working awesome now. Watch the video on the Timbersled website. I liked the theory behind it.

Change your hifax, their is a wheel kit to put on the shock shaft to help this. do both, what ever but you will see the wear.

 

[BigRed118]

Do you have rubber marks on the tunnel where it is hitting?

 

[biggdaddy]

Will look at These thanks

Thank you bigred and burndown I just got back from Maui and will look into the things you have suggested and let you know thanks.