Help w/ '04 Bearcat reverse case

[High Life]

For lack of a better place to ask this question, I'm posting this here since I think the reverse chain cases for the 1M sleds are real similar to the Bearcat.

I bought a used Bearcat that had a drive shaft bearing go out. The friend I bought it from already had it tore apart, but claimed all the parts and pieces were there. After finally rounding up all the new parts that needed replaced, we are in the process of putting it back together. Everything seems to fit pretty good, but we can only turn the secondary about 1/3 of a turn before something in the gearcase hits and stops it. Turning the other direction yields the same results.

In the attached diagram, we are having a problem with the studs and lock nuts (#39) contacting the raised portion of the spring retainer (#3). If we add shims on the outside of the spacer (#9) to prevent this, the outside of the chain (#10) contacts the gear (#12) and causes the case to lock-up as mentioned above.

If we remove the shims stacked on top of the spacer (#9), will the lock nuts (#39) damage the spring retainer (#3)?

Has anybody ran into this problem before?

I should add that we adjusted the tension on the chain and adjusted the shift linkage. It seems to shift pretty smooth, just can't get it to turn. We haven't tried letting the engine turn things over yet, just can't get it to work by hand.

Am I reading the parts list wrong, or should the spacer (#9) be 0.155" thick? We measured the one we have at 0.110".

Suggestions?

 

[Idcatman1]

My first thought is that maybe you have the bearing #38 in backwards. The flange on the inner race that the lock collar would go on if it was used in this case should be facing out. Did you replace gear #24? There are three different sizes of that gear and one too big will hit gear #1 and lock things up. The parts lookup I use does give a thickness of .155 for spacer #9. I would think the spring retainer #3 would get damaged if rubbing on the locknuts #39.
I hope this helps. Let us know how it works out.

 

[High Life]

My first thought is that maybe you have the bearing #38 in backwards. The flange on the inner race that the lock collar would go on if it was used in this case should be facing out. Did you replace gear #24? There are three different sizes of that gear and one too big will hit gear #1 and lock things up. The parts lookup I use does give a thickness of .155 for spacer #9. I would think the spring retainer #3 would get damaged if rubbing on the locknuts #39.
I hope this helps. Let us know how it works out.

Yes we replaced bearing #38 and its possible it is on backwards. We will check that.

Yes, we did replace the reverse idler gear #24. The parts lookup listed this part number as 0702-449 and the one I purchased on eBay has this same part number. Would the different sizes have different part numbers?

Thanks for the help! We have had a hard time getting any answers, even from the local dealer.

 

[Idcatman3]

The gears will have different part numbers.
This is Idcatman1 on my son's computer, don't have the part numbers handy. If you have the 44 tooth bottom sprocket that the book calls for you need a 20 tooth number 24.

 

[Idcatman1]

According to what I see on the parts diagram, 0702-449 should be the right gear. I am going with my first thought still, the bearing might be in backwards.

 

[High Life]

The bearing is installed correctly.

After we put everything together and adjusted the linkage accordingly, the case seemed to work flawlessly. It turns out that when the shift linkage is installed and adjusted correctly, it holds some pressure on the gear and keeps the spring from pushing the gears and chain together, preventing them from rubbing or contacting. I guess we spoke too soon when we couldn't figure out how everything in the case worked without a conflict when the cover and linkage was off. We have yet to run it on snow, but hope to try it out this weekend.

Thanks for the help Idcatman.

 

[Idcatman1]

Good to hear you got it worked out.

 

[Arcticatdan]

There should be only one shim #9 fairly thick. There should also be no tension on the shifter when not engaged or it will wear out the fork on the shifter and possibly dis engage the reverse unit and shear off the movable reverse buttons.