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I'm thinking of switching to a straight 40 what do you guys think
helix whos running what 09 m1000
- Thread starter cheeky
- Start date
S
I have the same question my 09 m1000 runs a straight 36. I was also thinking of a 40 but even a progressive 44-36 or 44-40. Any others? Good call Cheekster.............
i'm running a 44/40 and its a great improvement over the straight 36 but i think the 44/36 might have been a better way to go, i had to put another shim in the secondary spring to help the backshift as it seems a bit sluggish now. that helped but i dont think its the right answer.
I switched to the 44/36 from SLP. It pulls MUCH harder!! Belt temps are much cooler too (450 miles on current belt, all of which are in deep snow, no trails!). This is a great addition in the hills. I'm running SLP pipe and clutching with power commander control box. I was really impressed with the sled with the straight 36 and I could not believe the difference the 44/36 made. It's a great addition all around, especially in the steep stuff!!! I've been Polaris all the way and I took a gamble on the M1000. This baby has completely surpassed my expectations and I'm super excited with the gains that the airbox mod is adding....can't wait to get the airbox on!
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Ok so I'm a little slow in the clutch department, but from what I understand the steeper the angle the quicker the up shift, and the lower the angle the quicker the back shift.. So I'm thinking a split angle helix might be the way to go, say 34/40 if there is such a thing
Ok so I'm a little slow in the clutch department, but from what I understand the steeper the angle the quicker the up shift, and the lower the angle the quicker the back shift.. So I'm thinking a split angle helix might be the way to go, say 34/40 if there is such a thing
After breaking my stock helix during a climb I had the same question. The guys at BDX suggested a 40/36 based on my setup, 07 M1000, updated 3 post clutch w/custom 77.5g weights, 162" powerclaw, l.w. can. I went to SLP since they are local and they say with their testing on the SLP single setup a 44/36 is best, but agreed that stock a 40/36 should work nicely. I did the 40/36, an extra shim, and BDX rock rollers. It's a night and day difference, I was always a little dissapointed in the performance of my sled, since I could barely beat the cat 900 guys. Now it walks all over them, and gets me into places I definately don't need to be. Call SLP or BDX, either one the 40/36 costs $64.99.
S
My thoughts were along the lines of the 44/36. When you hammer on the throttle is when I think Im burning my belts out. When the sled is outright rippin up a hill the 36 seems to be perfect for the back shifting. I think Ill be picking up a 44/36 tommorrow and at least trying it out and probably a new belt also..............
B
Running a 38/36P --3000-6000ft- RKT kit.
K
Stock 08 with cutler torsional conversion... 38 helix with red/wht spring, 1 loose.
Very happy with this set up.
Very happy with this set up.
M
If u wanna use anything higher then a 38 degree start be prepared to add alot of spring tension as u will lose your backshift. I ran a 40 / 34 with a torsional setup. it worked on looser snow, the more the snow setup the more spribng pressure i needed to keep my backshift. I went back to a straight 36 and am alot happier with it as it is more consistent in all conditions. The torsional kit is a must on m sleds. Backshift is alive compared to the oem setup.
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rode yesterday in 3 to 4 feet of powder,best ride of my life, stock set up and a 046 belt. beat the piss out of the sled all day with no belt blowing so I think I'm going to leave it the way it is
rode yesterday in 3 to 4 feet of powder,best ride of my life, stock set up and a 046 belt. beat the piss out of the sled all day with no belt blowing so I think I'm going to leave it the way it is
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well back to the drawing board snow set up today and I blew that belt to rat $H!t. Frecken clutchs get extremely hot after a couple hard pulls you and acually hear the skin on my fingures sizzle. WTF
well back to the drawing board snow set up today and I blew that belt to rat $H!t. Frecken clutchs get extremely hot after a couple hard pulls you and acually hear the skin on my fingures sizzle. WTF
S
How much venting have you got on the go there cheeky? Sounds to me like yer on the right path with the clutching. As Im going to give some of yer ideas a try. Ive got alot of venting on the go and believe it has slowed down my burning belts issue........
I have a few questions, what elevation, belt and have you changed springs. and what weights. what intake did you go with?
B
What is your total clutching set up? Don't go straight 40 degree. A 44/36P is a good way to go. I have yet to see a sled work in the mountains with the 44/40 stepped or progressive. If it is fine on a powder day but not on hardpack it sound like your belt is slipping on shift out. Deflection could be the issue as well as secondary spring pressure.
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I haven't changed the clutching from stock yet, it has the Titanium spring in the primary 80g weights, straight 36 helix with a orange spring, and I tried both a 060 and 046 belt. The 060 lasted about 500km the 046 lasted 100km. I also tried gearing it down to 57/63 gears which made no difference in clutch heat, but I was getting beat by a rev 800 and a m8 in the hill climb, so I went back to 60/60. As for venting, I have side vents that are cut right out, and I installed a flowrite in front of the primary. I'm not going to lie to you guys and say I'm taking it easy on her, I'm climbing the $h!t out of it, like 4 to 5 long steep pulls, probly 2 to 3 minites long all in a row, but I usally will pull the cord just coming up the trail.I even noticed alot of belt dust in the first 10 to 15 km of the 046.
I haven't changed the clutching from stock yet, it has the Titanium spring in the primary 80g weights, straight 36 helix with a orange spring, and I tried both a 060 and 046 belt. The 060 lasted about 500km the 046 lasted 100km. I also tried gearing it down to 57/63 gears which made no difference in clutch heat, but I was getting beat by a rev 800 and a m8 in the hill climb, so I went back to 60/60. As for venting, I have side vents that are cut right out, and I installed a flowrite in front of the primary. I'm not going to lie to you guys and say I'm taking it easy on her, I'm climbing the $h!t out of it, like 4 to 5 long steep pulls, probly 2 to 3 minites long all in a row, but I usally will pull the cord just coming up the trail.I even noticed alot of belt dust in the first 10 to 15 km of the 046.
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get rid or the ti spring
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With the cat orange it seems about 2* of helix angle in the start rate is about 600 rpm's. More angle it will pull it down less will add it.
If you do get a new helix get a progressive one OR stick to only 4* pitch change. The stock rollers do not like more than that.
The goodwin performance Dark blue or Doo rer black double violet strip from GP are the same rates as the cat orange but shorter and smaller in diameter. It is not recommended t drop it into a close ended helix.
Down low the best helix set up so far is 48/45/42 progressive with a GP blue/yellow and D&D shift assist. This is for the smaller motors. For the bigger ones were you need to pull 7200 that is a different story.
Most on the 1000 are going to 48/40 progressive with stock clutching so I would bet the best for the M1000 would lean to 38/36 progressive. If you have a shift assist.
Don.
If you do get a new helix get a progressive one OR stick to only 4* pitch change. The stock rollers do not like more than that.
The goodwin performance Dark blue or Doo rer black double violet strip from GP are the same rates as the cat orange but shorter and smaller in diameter. It is not recommended t drop it into a close ended helix.
Down low the best helix set up so far is 48/45/42 progressive with a GP blue/yellow and D&D shift assist. This is for the smaller motors. For the bigger ones were you need to pull 7200 that is a different story.
Most on the 1000 are going to 48/40 progressive with stock clutching so I would bet the best for the M1000 would lean to 38/36 progressive. If you have a shift assist.
Don.
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