Diamond Drive oil change: 07 M8

[neilson]

Hey guys,

After reading far too many posts about blowing up diamond drives, its time for me to flush, drain and replace the oil. However, being my first sled, and sometimes a little mechanically challenged, I’m slightly anxious. I don’t want to find rust filled creamy oil with specs of steel everywhere, but more importantly, I want to do it right. What exactly do I have to do???? So far I’ve bought the arctic cat fluid and the flush. The sled is an 07 M8, so I’m guessing it needs 12oz as it has reverse. After removing the side panel, belt guard and belt, what’s next? What do I need to look out for exactly? I read the post on HCS about removing the entire DD but I don’t think I’m up to that yet. Sorry if this is a complete newb question, but like I said, I’m a little nervous. Thanks!

 

[JHG]

You said you weren't up to removing the DD but I think that's the best way. It's really not that hard, just take your time. There is a bolt in the shaft that you will have to get to through the brake side, just get a socket and long extension and go right through the middle of the brake rotor. I believe it's a 9/16. Other than that, there's just the bolts around the DD behind the secondary, take them off and gently pry the DD out of the frame.

If you still don't want to go that way, you can take the secondary off and pull the drain plug . Oil is going to run out so taking the plastic off the bottom so you can catch it with a pan would be helpful. After that, put the plug in, pull the fill plug and put the flush fluid in, repeat the drain and refill with the oil. It's really easy but I think it's easier and faster if you either take the DD out or at least pull the belly pan off. Good luck, and don't be alarmed if the oil is black and there is some medal shavings on the magnet on the drain plug.

 

[Nubulin]

I also prefer to open up the case and look at everything. But, it sounds like that might be too much for you.

Do like bighoe suggests, but I would also run the track for 30-60 sec with the flush fluid in there. Then let drain thouroughly. Also clean the shavings off the magnetic plus before flushing.

I would drain/flush at least twice a year with the last one being at the end of the season. A lot of water can get in there and you do not want rusting over the summer.

 

[browntrout]

You can slide an oil pan right under the drain bolt if pull a few screws out of the plastic and get it out of the way. I just placed a coffee filter under the drain too make sure there wasn't too much junk coming out. Mine came out really clean after 700 miles. I just rolled it on it's side, put the new fluid in. If you can change the oil in a car you can do it.

 

[kane13]

Hey if you got your manual its explained step by step i would follow that i haven't done mine yet but it looks easy i will do it in the spring only 220 km on mine right now.

 

[neilson]

Thanks for the quick replys guys. Sounds pretty simple. Anything special to know about removing the secondary?

 

[blackcloud2k]

Here is a really good post on how to do it with pics from hcs. It is the post that I followed to change out my oil.

http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t230041.html

 

[neilson]

complete

My first diamond drive oil change is complete. As expected, after removing the secondary, the dd case had a light dirty film over it like it had been leaking somewhere. Upon draining however, it seemed that plenty came out, almost the full 12oz. The fluid looked like dark green paint, so i guess some moisture has gotten in there. After putting in the flush, i lifted the rear and had a friend rotate the track 5-10 times, and the flush came out almost clear.

Knowing that moisture has gotten in there, what should be my next step? I've read that its almost expected that moisture gets in there, especially if the breather hole blocks, and then it pulls moisture through the seals upon cooling down. Should i run with it and check it regularly, or pull the whole unit out and apart and look for bad seals?

Also for your amusement, I'd never taken the belt off before, so i followed the instructions in the manual. After pulling the bolt, and then the sheave ( i think thats what they called it) and then the washers on the sheave, i screwed the bolt and sheave back in to spilt the secondary wide enough to take off the belt. All good until i had to put it back together and realised that i had screwed the bolt in too far and ruined the start of the thread. Lucky my buddy helping me had a die set on hand to fix my mistakes!

 

[Hotwatkins]

I just changed my oil in my 07 m8. I put the gasket kit in it from cat. I had a small leak in the case, silicone had let go. I am hoping the gasket kit will keep it sealed better.

 

[89sandman]

just pull the secondary center bolt, pull of the secondary, block up the right ski a few inches, place a drain pan under the left of the belly pan under the secondary. always pull the fill plug first, if you can't get it out you can't refill it! then just pull the drain and let it flow, flush it, then unblock the right ski, install drain plug, fill it until fluid comes out the fill hole and replace the fill plug. reassemble. moisture will always get in through the reverse shaft, the 2 o rings on the shaft are just not up to the task to keep all the moisture out. at least on the ones i've seen apart...

 

[hatchers]

maitenance wont help, this DD is a POS!!! blew mine up yesterday

I removed/drained/added new oil every 6 or so rides...she still spun a gear, gonna open it up tonight

 

[smoothdawg]

You didn't goof up the beginning of the threads on your bolt from threading it in too far. You goofed them up from either forgetting to remove the split and flat washer before threading it in or some sleds require several shims behind the secondary which makes your bolt just a little to short for spreading the sheaves. You flip the hub you are talking about around and then thread the bolt in the input shaft AFTER removing the split and flat washer. Hope that helps.