What is involved with changing tracks on my M8? Is it any harder or easier than your standard chain case? Would I need any special tools? Or is it worth sending to my dealer to do it?? I've never even looked in my Diamond Drive.
changing tracks with diamond drive????Info
- Thread starter Heater15
- Start date
IF you've changed the old style, I this style is alot easier.
Lock the brake
Remove the through bolt in your brake disk that clamps the driver to the DD. 1/2" drive 5/8" socket, numerous extensions, breaker bar and possibly a snipe.
Pull off the secondary and belt
Account for the SHIM WASHERS behind the secondary.
Pull the DD. 1/2" socket, swivel, extensions
You might also need a rubber mallet, a small heel bar and some channel locks to pull off that stupid rubber dampener at the top left of the DD.
De-tension the track. 9/16" I think.
Suspend the rear end so the track is on the floor but the skid is in the air.
Remove 4 bolts that tie the skid to the tunnel. I think they're 9/16" too, ratchet and a back up wrench.
Remove skid frame.
And this step I forget BUT I think I've done it both ways...
Unlock brake
Remove funky brake disk lock nut
Remove brake caliper from bulkhead and hand it off the coolant hose with mech wire
Remove driveshaft
Take picture.
While your DD is out, you should split the cases, drain the oil, clean and inspect the gears and bearings. Re-seal, re-oil, good to go.
If you look around in the HCS site, you'll find some info and pictures to help you along the way.
You'll also need blue loctite compound for the 'through bolt' and some RED RTV silicone for the DD. Torque wrench is nice too.
Anyone think of anything else. It's real late here.
Lock the brake
Remove the through bolt in your brake disk that clamps the driver to the DD. 1/2" drive 5/8" socket, numerous extensions, breaker bar and possibly a snipe.
Pull off the secondary and belt
Account for the SHIM WASHERS behind the secondary.
Pull the DD. 1/2" socket, swivel, extensions
You might also need a rubber mallet, a small heel bar and some channel locks to pull off that stupid rubber dampener at the top left of the DD.
De-tension the track. 9/16" I think.
Suspend the rear end so the track is on the floor but the skid is in the air.
Remove 4 bolts that tie the skid to the tunnel. I think they're 9/16" too, ratchet and a back up wrench.
Remove skid frame.
And this step I forget BUT I think I've done it both ways...
Unlock brake
Remove funky brake disk lock nut
Remove brake caliper from bulkhead and hand it off the coolant hose with mech wire
Remove driveshaft
Take picture.
While your DD is out, you should split the cases, drain the oil, clean and inspect the gears and bearings. Re-seal, re-oil, good to go.
If you look around in the HCS site, you'll find some info and pictures to help you along the way.
You'll also need blue loctite compound for the 'through bolt' and some RED RTV silicone for the DD. Torque wrench is nice too.
Anyone think of anything else. It's real late here.
Pretty easy actually, easier than with chain case in my opinion. Someone may need to expound or fix anything I get wrong.
1. Take off side panels
2. Take off belt
3. Take off driven clutch
4. Take skid out
5. Remove long bolt from drive shaft. Removes from the brake side.
6. Remove DD. Six nuts as I recall. Note that you need to take out the rubber bumper thing on the upper left of the DD cause there is a nut hidden behind there
7. Remove five bolts holding the drive shaft to the tunnel. Do from the brake side. The nuts are inside the tunnel.
8. Pull the drive shaft out towards the brake side while angling the drive shaft and drivers down and towards the rear of the sled and while simultaneously working the track over the drivers, out of the tunnel towards the clutch side. Can be a little bit of work and an extra pair of hands can help.
Reverse everthing you just did to install the new track and get it back together.
1. Take off side panels
2. Take off belt
3. Take off driven clutch
4. Take skid out
5. Remove long bolt from drive shaft. Removes from the brake side.
6. Remove DD. Six nuts as I recall. Note that you need to take out the rubber bumper thing on the upper left of the DD cause there is a nut hidden behind there
7. Remove five bolts holding the drive shaft to the tunnel. Do from the brake side. The nuts are inside the tunnel.
8. Pull the drive shaft out towards the brake side while angling the drive shaft and drivers down and towards the rear of the sled and while simultaneously working the track over the drivers, out of the tunnel towards the clutch side. Can be a little bit of work and an extra pair of hands can help.
Reverse everthing you just did to install the new track and get it back together.
A
I have never swapped tracks with a chain case but have become and expert at swapping them on my M1k. The first time you do it will take a while but after doing it several times you can get it down to an hour. Many people will tell you to pull the diamond drive but I believe this is unnecessary and takes more time. The easiest way I have found is to
1. Use tie-down around bumper and rafter or something overhead to raise end of sled as high as you can get it in the air.
2. Loosen track and pull 4 bolts to release skid and remove skid.
3. Remove the right side access panel and remove the can (muffler)
4. Remove special brake rotor retainer nut. There is a special socket you can buy to remove this. I use the same socket that I use on my pickup wheel bearings to remove it. You can also use a hammer and screw driver to loosen and tighten it. I have heard people say that it should be replace everytime you remove it but I have taken mine of probably 20 times and have not had any issues, its only purpose is to hold the rotor on.
5. Remove bolt that holds driveshaft to diamond drive. This is located with in the hollow driveshaft. It can only be accessed from the brake side and will take a looong extention. This bolt is not designed to come out so just loosen it until you can't feel anymore resistence.
6. Remove 5 bolts that hold break assembly to the tunnel. These are locatedon the inside of the tunnel.
7. Now everything is loose and you should be able to seperate the driveshaft from the diamond drive by pulling everything out the brake side. Its a little tight and you will have to fight the track a little as it will want to hang up on the drivers. One major problem you may run into is if the driveshaft is siezed onto the bearing in the brake assembly. If this is the case bet a big F*ing hammer and a chunk of wood and beat the hell out of the end of the driveshaft to drive it out of the bearing. When you finally have it seperated use lots of antisieze when you put it back together and you won't ever have that problem again.
8. Now take the driveshaft out and then the track and then slap it all back together.
That should cover it. Just so you know it took me like 4 hours to do it the first time but its better then having the dealer do it and you will have a much more knowledge of how everything works when you are done. Hope this helps.
One more thing if anybody on here tells you that you can remove the track without pulling the driveshaft they are full of sh*t.
1. Use tie-down around bumper and rafter or something overhead to raise end of sled as high as you can get it in the air.
2. Loosen track and pull 4 bolts to release skid and remove skid.
3. Remove the right side access panel and remove the can (muffler)
4. Remove special brake rotor retainer nut. There is a special socket you can buy to remove this. I use the same socket that I use on my pickup wheel bearings to remove it. You can also use a hammer and screw driver to loosen and tighten it. I have heard people say that it should be replace everytime you remove it but I have taken mine of probably 20 times and have not had any issues, its only purpose is to hold the rotor on.
5. Remove bolt that holds driveshaft to diamond drive. This is located with in the hollow driveshaft. It can only be accessed from the brake side and will take a looong extention. This bolt is not designed to come out so just loosen it until you can't feel anymore resistence.
6. Remove 5 bolts that hold break assembly to the tunnel. These are locatedon the inside of the tunnel.
7. Now everything is loose and you should be able to seperate the driveshaft from the diamond drive by pulling everything out the brake side. Its a little tight and you will have to fight the track a little as it will want to hang up on the drivers. One major problem you may run into is if the driveshaft is siezed onto the bearing in the brake assembly. If this is the case bet a big F*ing hammer and a chunk of wood and beat the hell out of the end of the driveshaft to drive it out of the bearing. When you finally have it seperated use lots of antisieze when you put it back together and you won't ever have that problem again.
8. Now take the driveshaft out and then the track and then slap it all back together.
That should cover it. Just so you know it took me like 4 hours to do it the first time but its better then having the dealer do it and you will have a much more knowledge of how everything works when you are done. Hope this helps.
One more thing if anybody on here tells you that you can remove the track without pulling the driveshaft they are full of sh*t.
Pigeon beat me to it.
If by this you mean pulling the drive shaft completely out, I disagree, I've changed three tracks in three years by simply pulling the drive shaft as far out the brake side as I can with the drivers still on and then working the track off the drivers (actually kid of do both at the same time). May well be easier your way but it can be done my way.
I
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1
X3 It only takes about 5 minutes to remove the DD and on my 07 there is no nut behind the rubber stopper. I also found its a bit harder to get the power claw off vs the challenger.
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A
You guys can pick you poison but I personally think its easier to leave the DD alone and pull the shaft from the brake side. You already have to pull the 5 nuts that hold the brake assembley to the tunnel, unbolt shaft from DD. Then instead of just pulling the rotor retainer nut you guys are pulling the secondary and all the bolts out fo the DD and if its on an 07 or 08 then you have to deal with the reverse actuator and all that crap. The fact that some of you don't have the reverse drum on your DD could make it possible to pull the track without removing the DD or Driveshaft but believe me I have tired it on my sled and there is no way.
K
I like ausm's idea of doing it.
However, the bearings on the brake side get stuck on the shaft, and get moisture trapped between them... I beat the piss out of the shaft with a block of wood and hammer to get it out.
After the bearings sat exposed to air, they rusted and seized up.
At minimum I would remove the shaft from the brake housing/bearings and inspect them.
I prefer grease over anti seize, and I packed the void between the bearings upon re-assembly and I think this will help keep the moisture out.
Once moisture gets in, it will stay there.
However, the bearings on the brake side get stuck on the shaft, and get moisture trapped between them... I beat the piss out of the shaft with a block of wood and hammer to get it out.
After the bearings sat exposed to air, they rusted and seized up.
At minimum I would remove the shaft from the brake housing/bearings and inspect them.
I prefer grease over anti seize, and I packed the void between the bearings upon re-assembly and I think this will help keep the moisture out.
Once moisture gets in, it will stay there.
