2000 rmk gen II tunnel & rail extension setup idea's ect..

[Kootenay-Stomper]

im doing a 151 2.5 finger track on my 700 with extroverts, big wheels (inners) tunnel ext..rail ext...
new shocks all around.
what size of wheels should i go? could i go 151 rail ext with 8'' or 8'' wheels
or 144 ext with 9''
The VE tunnel extension looks like a good one,looks like i can just rivet my stock rear cooler on it?
http://vanamburgonline.com/catalog/...d=110&osCsid=5e2f2e86f28c310bfb7d9c13a7da33f5
what is the best way, what are some good all around shocks
i need some ideas please!!
ill post a pic on what it looks like as it sits right now
thanks

 

[sled_guy]

For $85 you can buy the stock 151 tunnel closeoff and rivet it on and rivet your cooler too it.

I'd suggest rail extensions, you can buy big wheel ext as well, that give you the combination of extension and being able to go to bigger wheels.

sled_guy

 

[HomeGrownRMK]

Whatever you go with on the extension setup, I (IMHO) would suggest getting a set of suspension drop brackets. They made a world of difference on my 2000 rmk after I switched to a 151"

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

how bigg of drop brackets?? 3 or 4''???

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

ttt
what kinda of shocks all around?

 

[Scott]

2.25" finger track?

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

2.25" finger track?

yupp

 

[go high fast]

I think 151 is the all-around best track. Mountain Machines makes a simple and polaris compatible bolt in rear axel for the fabcraft 8" 2 wheel kit--SIMPLE.

Rail extension--SIMPLE

Radical Drop Brackets--change the whole geometry of the rear skid--PROBLEMATIC.

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

I think 151 is the all-around best track. Mountain Machines makes a simple and polaris compatible bolt in rear axel for the fabcraft 8" 2 wheel kit--SIMPLE.

Rail extension--SIMPLE

Radical Drop Brackets--change the whole geometry of the rear skid--PROBLEMATIC.

sweet
could you tell me for about the drop brackets,is all i know is they change your attack angle?? lol
thanks

 

[2001rmk700]

i am doing a similar thing i have a 2001 rmk 700 with a 144 i got rail extensions for a 151 but i am putting a 153 camoplast. i got 8 inch big wheel kit and 7 tooth anti wratches i am droping and moving everything back. 1/2 inch down and 1/2 inch back. The 8 inch big wheel kit will make up that extra space. i know i have to get new drop brackets for my sled, i also have to cut about 2 inchs off the front of my rails and i am going with an anti stab kit. not sure yet what to use to extend the tunnel (as far as which brand to go with)
i dont know if that helps or confuses the situation just my 2 cents

 

[skis_n_skid]

i am doing a similar thing i have a 2001 rmk 700 with a 144 i got rail extensions for a 151 but i am putting a 153 camoplast. i got 8 inch big wheel kit and 7 tooth anti wratches i am droping and moving everything back. 1/2 inch down and 1/2 inch back. The 8 inch big wheel kit will make up that extra space.

Just curious, all the offset axle kits I've seen for 8" idlers move the axle both up and forward to allow for the larger wheels. You have a method to move the axle up but not foreward?

 

[Scott]

Rear drop alone does not make an improvement to the attack angle.

It CHANGES, but it's not improved. LOL
Improvement here is a relative term.

Think about how it moves the sled.

If you drop JUST the rear it lifts the rear bumper up.
The front part of the rail can actually be off the ground. (and I'm not talking about the curved front..I'm talking about the flat part down underneath.)

That puts more weight on the skis. Less pressure on the track. Less traction. More trenching. Less moving. More sticks. More digging.

The sled rides heavier up front.

If you drop the rear, you HAVE to drop the front a proportionate amount.
You HAVE to have the rails sitting flat on the floor if you want decent geometry.

Take it from me...I experimented and experienced a LOT back in 2000-02 with my chassis on the rear skid geometry.

I'll see if I can dig up a couple of funny pics of what NOT to do.



If you don't believe me try this:
Hook your rear bumper up to a chain hoist in the garage. Make sure the sled is off the shop dollies or rollers. Unbolt the REAR of your skid.

Start pulling on that chain hoist and lift the bumper. What what happens to the front of the rails as you lift. See how flat they aren't?

For extra measure put the bathroom scales under your skis and take the reading before during and at the end of your lift. See how much that changes things?

However much your rail tips are off teh floor at the end of your lift, that is how much you have to drop the front skid mount...plus just a little more to get that weight off the front skis.

 

[beefspots]

tunnel extension

K Stomper the VE extension was very easy to install and looks very good with their rear bumper. Here is a picture of my install. Hope it gives you some help. As for your suspension IMO I would not use the drop brackets.

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

K Stomper the VE extension was very easy to install and looks very good with their rear bumper. Here is a picture of my install. Hope it gives you some help. As for your suspension IMO I would not use the drop brackets.

thats sweet!
how much is the rear bumper?? or dose it come with the extension,heat exchanger & bumper??
looks like its just drill and air rivet or there predrilled.
and for drop brackets im deffenity not using them lol

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

151 rails with 8'' wheels would work easy with a offset axle??? will have extrovert so should be able to run farly loose??

 

[Kootenay-Stomper]

what about 144 rail ext. with my 151 with 8'' wheels, anti stab kit, and move my skid back 1'' or so?? sounds simple..