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18 silber checklist

papafinger1

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I picked up a new to me 18 with a silber turbo on it since new. Previous owner said it runs really strong to the point he was reluctant to sell. I am super excited about this riding season but want to make sure I do everything possible to make sure this machine runs as it should come riding season (not too far off)

I used to be up to my neck in the carb turbo world but got sick of constantly tuning. Have been running stage 2 Efi since. Always polaris 2011-2016. I am pretty familiar with the axys chassis and know their weak points. Always wanted back in the boosted world and have been monitoring the improvements since I quit boosting carbed sleds.

So far I have checked/replaced motor mounts, added torque arm, checked all relays, and am preparing to send clutches to Indy Dan for a tune and face lift. Cutting 6” off the tunnel while it’s apart. May add 5’ u cooler if heat is an issue. Check and service all suspension parts. I am looking for checks and balances geared specifically toward boost. General turbo issues as well as Silber specific.



Thanks


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Sheetmetalfab

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I picked up a new to me 18 with a silber turbo on it since new. Previous owner said it runs really strong to the point he was reluctant to sell. I am super excited about this riding season but want to make sure I do everything possible to make sure this machine runs as it should come riding season (not too far off)

I used to be up to my neck in the carb turbo world but got sick of constantly tuning. Have been running stage 2 Efi since. Always polaris 2011-2016. I am pretty familiar with the axys chassis and know their weak points. Always wanted back in the boosted world and have been monitoring the improvements since I quit boosting carbed sleds.

So far I have checked/replaced motor mounts, added torque arm, checked all relays, and am preparing to send clutches to Indy Dan for a tune and face lift. Cutting 6” off the tunnel while it’s apart. May add 5’ u cooler if heat is an issue. Check and service all suspension parts. I am looking for checks and balances geared specifically toward boost. General turbo issues as well as Silber specific.



Thanks


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loose / unsealed bov cap causing popping.

low shift rpm clutching tune causes same. (Fueling is off when full boost and low rpm) target 8300.

I’m having great luck with the E3 spark plugs after a bunch of junk NGK’s.

tight and fully seated spark plug caps.

belt deflection properly set.

track tension tight. (Balloons under boost and scrubs trackspeed/ eats belts)

highly recommend indydan’s turbo extreme helix and setup. (High early trackspeed)

khaos conversion and velocity shocks (plush and playful)
 

papafinger1

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Jan 16, 2007
11,031
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minnesota
loose / unsealed bov cap causing popping.

low shift rpm clutching tune causes same. (Fueling is off when full boost and low rpm) target 8300.

I’m having great luck with the E3 spark plugs after a bunch of junk NGK’s.

tight and fully seated spark plug caps.

belt deflection properly set.

track tension tight. (Balloons under boost and scrubs trackspeed/ eats belts)

highly recommend indydan’s turbo extreme helix and setup. (High early trackspeed)

khaos conversion and velocity shocks (plush and playful)

When you say tight do u mean run tighter than polaris spec?
Never thought about the spark plug caps -thanks
It has exit shock all the way around and will play with adjustment once on the hill.
I like the khaos geometry but want to see how I like the handling then make adjustments to fit my riding style/ability.

Lots of things to check before the season just want it to run good when I’m on the mountain. All about preventative maintenance so I can limit on the mountain “fixes”.


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Sheetmetalfab

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When you say tight do u mean run tighter than polaris spec?
Never thought about the spark plug caps -thanks
It has exit shock all the way around and will play with adjustment once on the hill.
I like the khaos geometry but want to see how I like the handling then make adjustments to fit my riding style/ability.

Lots of things to check before the season just want it to run good when I’m on the mountain. All about preventative maintenance so I can limit on the mountain “fixes”.


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By tight I do mean polaris spec.

if it still has polaris drivers you may need even tighter just for ratcheting.

Swapping to avid drivers and not ratcheting under load doesn’t remove the tight track advantage in real life performance.

I’m merely combatting the stigma that “easy to turn by hand” equals “faster on the hill”
(Especially with boost)
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
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i put in avid drivers and run the track just a bit looser than polaris spec. cant say if it gave me more speed or less but i get a lot less hi-fax wear and i never get a ratchet (with stock drivers i could only get a few rides with it guitar string tight before it started ratcheting again)
as four the check list double check all clamps are tight and tubes/hoses are fully seated on(particularly on the boost side of things) and that the EX springs are still strong if you have a chain check that to, it definitely stretches more than a stocker the only other thing i do to my boosted sled vers non is fully break down both clutches twice a year and clean then deglaze the faces with scotch-brite 3M instead of once. after that i treat it like any other sled... good oil/gas/grease basic maintains and keep a good eye on all the wear parts pads/hi-fax/belt on and on!!! good luck sounds like you got a well set up sled be safe and keep them skis up :D
 

Ski-Dont89

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Did you replace the factory torque stop? If not I would. I’m trying pro ride motor mounts this year. Hopefully they hold up better. Put 400 on the newest part number axys ones last year and were already showing wear.

here are a few Other things I pay attention to or have done on my 16 with a silber.

make sure all y pipe springs are doubled and the pipe to turbo as well.

make sure exhaust donuts are fresh. I’m going to run some high temp copper rtv on them this year to ensure a good seal, but haven’t in the past.

i have an early kit with the cf turbo to intake section. The fit was bad and let a lot of water in. Since ive replaced the two plastic push darts with bolts and sealed the connection with Gorilla tape on the Flat part and adhesive black silicone on the rest. Has been working great. If you have the newer plastic section it might be better, but I would keep an eye on it.

are you running the silber clutching? Definitely would recommend trs clutching or indydan. Also recommend getting a try alignment bar and getting clutch alignment spot on. you’re in good shape sending your clutches to Indy dan.

I recommend a tss bypass out of the gate. I read a lot that when they cause issues the turbo can amplify It and then you’re chasing other issues that aren’t there. Make sure to run a tether.

extra intake area is a good idea. Slp, fire and ice, boondocker all have good options.

its a good idea to check reeds depending on how many miles are on it.

I cut 8” off my 155 and still haven’t tried it. Hoping it cools well. I used to have problems overheating on the trail since 2012 On stock pros. I started running Ottp reversible scratchers. Couldn’t recommend them enough. Throw way more snow and cool the sled so much better. Plus you can back up with them.
 

papafinger1

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Great advice fellas. I ordered a clutch kit from Tony at trs. Great to work with and fast. Shipping tomorrow. Clutches are heading in. Putting finishing touches on the new shop next week and will begin tear down and inspection. Can’t wait for this season!


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papafinger1

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Snow is falling and it is getting deeper. Soon I will be riding. Hoping everything is good and this machine will run as advertised. Buddy just burnt down his boosted cat and has never run right.

That is my biggest fear. Love the power but spent Way Too much time wrenching/tuning on my old carb turbo.

Praying to the powder gods that this set up performs as advertised!

Merry Christmas all!

Cheers to a safe and enjoyable riding season.


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