Anyone put anti ratchets on a new IQ without a set back?
- Thread starter dub
- Start date
I have done many anti ratchets but have always moved the skid back. With that being said you will have to trim the rails as well as moving the skid.
Hey dub,
A buddy of mine put Avid Extros on his '07 700. Trimmed the rail tips as far as possible and added the Wahl anti-stab kit. He did not re-locate the rear skid. It is really tight, but he made it through a season and nothing seemed to rub. While cycling the rear suspension he was down to less than 1/4" between the drivers and the rails, but it didn't hit.
You should be fine. Just check for clearance before you put it on the snow
SpeedWobble
A buddy of mine put Avid Extros on his '07 700. Trimmed the rail tips as far as possible and added the Wahl anti-stab kit. He did not re-locate the rear skid. It is really tight, but he made it through a season and nothing seemed to rub. While cycling the rear suspension he was down to less than 1/4" between the drivers and the rails, but it didn't hit.
You should be fine. Just check for clearance before you put it on the snow
SpeedWobble
no set back required
Used Avids extroverts, cut rails to instructions and added antistab kit.... no problems
Used Avids extroverts, cut rails to instructions and added antistab kit.... no problems
Both my 07 600's have extros on them and the rails are just trimmed, no problems.
D
dub
Well-known member
That's sweet man thanks! I just got off the phone with Avid, got it all on order.
R
Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
My thoughts....save your money for something else. And have someone provide benchmark tests showing that running your track loose is better or that Avid extros provide a performance gain. Not.
IMO Avids are overhyped, yes I know Poo engineers, Carl's Cycle & SLP are all dumbasses & still don't get it. Forgot to include Ron...just another dumb ***.
S
srosscojw
Active member
Hey Ron, 3" pitch avids are smaller in diameter than stock drivers so your gain is 2 fold, gear reduction + the ability to run a good track and throw that pos poo track in the garbage. These 2 things probly increased my sleds performance 20%. no more trenching better floatation and increased track speed.I never had ratchet problems before and I know for sure that I wont now.
R
Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Two good reasons to change. Guess I was off base, but there are a lot of guys changing for the wrong reasons.
Here is my opinion with great respect to others with different opinions.
Some stuff I've learned from the diff engineers in the sled world.
Extro drivers do not equal a need to run the track looser.
A few years back, extros were run on the M-series Cats... Those sleds HAD to be run loose because the skid would not fuction to full travel without being run loose. When run with standard, involute, drives the sleds would ratched badly.....
I completely agree....A loose track will NOT put the power to the snow in most situations as well as a PROPERLY tensioned track.
AND, a loose track is much more prone to stabbing.
NOTE: "COMBO" driver is another word for Extro driver... two different mfgs.
Some stuff I've learned from the diff engineers in the sled world.
Extro drivers do not equal a need to run the track looser.
A few years back, extros were run on the M-series Cats... Those sleds HAD to be run loose because the skid would not fuction to full travel without being run loose. When run with standard, involute, drives the sleds would ratched badly.....
I completely agree....A loose track will NOT put the power to the snow in most situations as well as a PROPERLY tensioned track.
AND, a loose track is much more prone to stabbing.
NOTE: "COMBO" driver is another word for Extro driver... two different mfgs.
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Looser tracks allow the paddles to fold over easier... a part of the equation that most dont think of and is the MAIN reason why Jack Struthers says that a tight track works better than a loose one...it hooks up better, expecially in more setup conditions like on a track or hill-drags, or spring time climbing (or our average sierra cement)
The people with Extrovert drivers seem to want to run the track real loose which allows for distortion of the track as it leaves the driver and makes the track more suceptable to "stabbing"...
This loose track wants to get "sucked up" into the space between the driver and the rail tip which leave a track window (especially a 3" track window) prone to putting a rail tip through it.
With the extros, I dont look at them as a way to make the track looser... I look at it as a prevention of ratcheting in the high-demand situations
The people with Extrovert drivers seem to want to run the track real loose which allows for distortion of the track as it leaves the driver and makes the track more suceptable to "stabbing"...
This loose track wants to get "sucked up" into the space between the driver and the rail tip which leave a track window (especially a 3" track window) prone to putting a rail tip through it.
With the extros, I dont look at them as a way to make the track looser... I look at it as a prevention of ratcheting in the high-demand situations
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I think the "combo" drivers are the best option, but run almost as tight as the stock drivers AND run the more slippery hyperfax as well as popping back on some idlers for spring conditions as well.
Extros, IMO, are mandatory on high hp sleds... BUT they should be run at the correct, not loose, tension... similar to normal tracks/stock-drivers.
When they are running normally, not ratcheting, the teeth of the extro are not even contacting the track or the clips and only drive from the involute portion on the inside of the track.
Extros, IMO, are mandatory on high hp sleds... BUT they should be run at the correct, not loose, tension... similar to normal tracks/stock-drivers.
When they are running normally, not ratcheting, the teeth of the extro are not even contacting the track or the clips and only drive from the involute portion on the inside of the track.
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