2016 back together and ready for tomorrow

WyoBoy1000 · Apr 6, 2015

Increased steering mod, burandt boards narrowed 4" and lifted boards 1.75", ski doo X adjustable riser, chopped post 2.25" now up is stock height and goes down 2.25", there is no slop at all in the steering, egts are in to get stock readings before mods, removed retard snow dragger (snow flap), and hopefully have tether installed quickly. Much more to come.

first ride tomorrow to compare the my 14, then once I get readings, start dropping weight fast to see if its really that much better. In stock form I would take my 14 ten to one.

High Country · Apr 6, 2015

wow...you do not f*ck around or waste any time !!
how's the new clutching ?....are you a fan or no ?
just needs belt drive like your 14

d1100t · Apr 6, 2015

Looks good

Awesome.
Are you saying you narrowed the plastic 4 inches and raised the running boards 1.75 inches?
I couldn't see in the pics what you had to do to raise the boards?
Could you please post a few more pics?

summ8rmk · Apr 6, 2015

I wanna ride it too

Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!

ACMtnCat · Apr 6, 2015

How did you raise the boards 1.75"s????????

knifedge · Apr 6, 2015

--Bring some parts for clutch tuning (unless setup well enough for now when you rode it)

--You could use 1x4 boards bolted to the running boards to tune your running board height before making actual mods(Skinz has there adjustable Airlock kit for $1500)

--Did you transfer your hood from your 14 for less weight also?

Stack · Apr 6, 2015

The boards look nice, would like to hear more on the setup being narrower and taller. The black boards do a nice job breaking up the green a bit, the green has grown on me, but the black boards really do look better IMO.

Glad to get some real world info on the 16 while we are finishing up the 15 season, this may help a lot of guys looking to snow check!

Thanks for the info Wyo!

-Stack

WyoBoy1000 · Apr 6, 2015

Came with 70g weights, put 66g in, start of day in heavy snow it was down to 7400 with a high of 7800.
It came with an 85/255 spring, but based on the profile of the weight is kinda like mds weights, just kinda.
Slow shift,
I added 2 .30 glide washers and put on a 83 belt, pulled 78-7900 with better response. I think a 100/28570 spring would be better for me if they made one. Have to work on it.

The gear ratio on it with 7 tooth is 2.86. Joke.

My 14 with 63g weights, 8 tooth drivers, 2.42 gears is snappy as helI and pulling 8120-8200.

They are both different animals, did crazy chit on both. The 16 skis are planted? Ran everything else stock so well be interesting to see what it becomes with light weight mods.

Yes, 2" in on both sides.

I hammered the existing board lip up and angle the boards up. Works great.

I have a lot of tuning to do on shock setup, clutching, etc...

Had a stock 16 there to, it won't touch this one or my 14!

bradburck · Apr 7, 2015

Is the height you gained only on the outside of the board? Where it connects to the tunnel is still the same distance from the garage floor correct? You just angled them toe up on the outside? How do you think this will hold up over time? Spend most of the time on the outer portions of the boards anyways in wrong foot... interesting idea.

summ8rmk · Apr 7, 2015

Wyo, did u measure the angle from the edge of the track on the floor to the stock board then again after narrowing and raising the board?

The 16 cat has the track 1.5" further from the board than the 15 which increases the Angle. Ur mods will make the increase even more.

Sounds like a sidehilling machine.

What is the board angle on ur 15 PRO and 15 DOO?

Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!

Thunder101 · Apr 7, 2015

any input on how the new skid adjustments feel ? taking about the higher rail mount for the front arm and longer shock.
Its a totally different change from what thought it needed. not that I see things the right way all the time

B-Ridge Sledder · Apr 7, 2015

Curious what you thought about the front end. I didn't find the 38" very hard to get on a edge is it worth the money on my 14 if I'm going to dump it after a year? 38" a-arms are going to be cheap and I like to bend them.

Stack · Apr 7, 2015

For those of us riding low elevation, do you feel the 21/49 gearing would be the better option? I would be looking at the 2.6 track with this setup as the 3in would be too much for the amount of trail I have to ride.

As far as the belt drive, I have done some initial research, after you set the tension is it pretty hands off or do you find it is something that needs a lot of monitoring/adjustment? Seems to be lots of good kits out there now, I would be one that would like to retain the oil injection tank too. I just don't want something that I would be constantly adjusting, after driving 8 hrs to get to the riding spot I prefer to limit the wrenching!

Thanks,

-Stack

boondocker97 · Apr 7, 2015

Stack said:
For those of us riding low elevation, do you feel the 21/49 gearing would be the better option? I would be looking at the 2.6 track with this setup as the 3in would be too much for the amount of trail I have to ride.

As far as the belt drive, I have done some initial research, after you set the tension is it pretty hands off or do you find it is something that needs a lot of monitoring/adjustment? Seems to be lots of good kits out there now, I would be one that would like to retain the oil injection tank too. I just don't want something that I would be constantly adjusting, after driving 8 hrs to get to the riding spot I prefer to limit the wrenching!

Thanks,

-Stack

I re-adjusted mine after the first 10 miles and once more after 50-75 miles. Haven't touched it since. It is a TKI setup. About 350 miles on it now on my pro-lite with a 2.52 ratio, 162 2.6 track, 300lb rider with gear, and 8-10,000 riding elevation. Running the same clutching with it geared up from the stock 2.63 ratio. Seems to support Tom's findings of being able to pull one tooth on the top sprocket higher with the belt drive on a well clutched and geared sled. For a smaller rider and lower elevation, I would go up to at least a 2.42, if not all the way to the 2.33. Should just be a top pulley swap if you want to go up or down one step.

Chewy22 · Apr 7, 2015

^ X2 - have only adjusted mine twice. Once right after break-in then again with ~100 miles. Probably have close to 500 miles on mine - TKI.

jbusch · Apr 7, 2015

Mine as well. Tki all the way. Super simple

WyoBoy1000 · Apr 7, 2015

Boards are solid.

The tki on my 14, put it on and haven't touched it. 300 miles

On the low elevation gearing I would run the 2.33 gears, high elevation 2.42 to 2.52

I'll have to measure a few things on boards etc...

Is there a way too post videos from Facebook?

WyoBoy1000 · Apr 8, 2015

Rear skid sits about 5/8" lower, front of skid 1/4" lower. The bracket on the front arm where rear shock is mounted is turned downward, thus keeping it lower. Rear shock is same length.
Front shock is longer but mounted father back.
Skid rails are longer, puts track down 2-3 inches farther forward and about 2.5 more track on the ground. In effect is like having a longer track.
Both arms are same, but the front arm is mounted 5/8" higher.

WyoBoy1000 · Apr 8, 2015

Steering is way more with mod on 16.

WyoBoy1000 · Apr 8, 2015

Redrilled limiter straps and dropped front skid 1/2", should help with ski pressure.

2016 back together and ready for tomorrow

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