CAUTION: Read this if powering ANY electrical accessories on your PRO.

mountainhorse · Sep 30, 2014

As a note... Regardless of what ANY aftermarket mfg says, NEVER, EVER, install a fuse larger than factory installed 2amp for the "DC ACC" connector by the headlights... and also, never run a motor load of any amperage off of this connector.

This is a LOW AMP connector that draws power directly from the ECU power supply... by drawing more power than intended you could damage the ECU and/or the voltage regulator OR affect how your sled runs. If your device blows the 2 amp fuse... It means that the fuse is protecting the factory ECU/VR correctly.

DO NOT connect ANY loads to the connector marked "DC PWR" located on top of the Clutch Cover wiring-bundle. This draws power from the same location as the "DC ACC" plug BUT it is not fuse protected. The "DC PWR" connector is a power INPUT for ECU diagnostics even though it has power when the sled is running. This includes Turbo Oil-Pumps/AFR's etc... DO NOT plug turbo oil pumps into the "DC PWR" connector!

There are turbo and aftermarket parts companies that are drawing power from this connector without fuses to protect and/or drawing too high of current from this supply. Motor or pump loads should not draw power from the ECU power supply.

I'm sure I'll have someone chime in and say "I've been using this for years with lots of accessories tied into it.".... That is your choice, but I've personally replaced ECU's/VRR's or helped to diagnose many problems for people that have had electrical loads tied into the "DC PWR" connector ...with a fried their ECU and/or VRR.

Different pumps will induce different amounts of noise into the system... some tuning and run-ability issues have been solved by hooking moving pump/accessory/auxiliary loads to a different source.

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wjl · Sep 30, 2014

Think of it as your computer at home it likes constant clean power. Turn a hair dryer on that same power source or if lighting surges the power fluctuates.
NOT good

mountainhorse · Sep 30, 2014

NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.

From "DC Power" thread

This is a SAFE way to power your accessories on the sled.

It makes a "Plug N Play" install that does not alter your wiring harness and makes it easy to install accessories.

If you want to know that your oil pump is always getting power...Hook up a 12V led light to the pump power output from the fuse block.
Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HL9MXJE/
Or I'm sure Radio Shack or Auto parts stores like Oreilly or NAPA will have one.

Mount in your dashboard and you will always know if you have power to the pump.

NOTE: Many have asked about the AFR Gauges... and want to know why an AFR gauge is not a "low draw" accessory.
AFR gauges are NOT low amperage accessories because the sensor itself draws quite a bit of current to run the heater element.

MacDawg productions said:
MacDawg productions said:

... I want to run stock headlight and don't want to change that, I do want to power my turbo oil pump, run koso egt gauges, and afr/boost gauges. want the simplest.

Is the capacitor and no batt off the acc connection the best method?
YES, I believe in your situation, it is.

can i pull all those things off the one capacitor connection?
YES, Run fuses for each of those accessories in the proper size.

Click to expand...

Mating connector for "ACC PWR" at clutch guard bundle... TYCO #1-480305-0
Mouser #

Pins for connector (order a couple of extras)
TYCO # 60620-1
Mouser

Bridge Rectifier
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/GBPC3506-E4-51/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fMRt2%2f0z7BctjwDV6a42HMg%3d

Capacitor
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/CGS572U050R3C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YUNjjiC3kA6Gg6i%2fOk%2fNHnE%3d

Nice fuse blocks (look around the site... they have lots of good wiring stuff... vinyl tube to protect wires, connectors etc)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

These are also a nice clean fuse block on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291076954623

...

mountainhorse · Sep 30, 2014

NOTE: If you have an electric start sled with a battery... you can hook the fuseblock directly to the battery without the need for the capacitor nor the rectifier.

BUT... if you want the accessories to turn off automatically with the sled, you will need to install a relay on the feed side of the fuse block.

I'll see if I can do a dwg for this later with parts links.

.

mountainhorse · Sep 30, 2014

Second NOTE:

If you are deleting your headlights OR Replacing them with LED headlights... then you will still need to run resistors to keep from overheating/killing your Voltage Regulator (VRR)

mountainhorse · Sep 30, 2014

Reg2view said:
Pulling 15 amps off the fuse block through the rectifier with a 10 amp fuse before the rectifier could be an issue for some peeps who need lots of power.

This is a great ACC fuse block solution, with no battery. Really only need 2 alternative solutions for most accessories, one rectified off ACC, and one for a 12v DC fuse block off a battery with a ACC single pole relay. Keeps it simple and solid.

UPDATE - posted at same time as MH's last 2 threads, abit of a duplicate, now.

Good Catch Reg2view ...Type-O.... I'll have to fix that image when I have the time.

A 15 amp ATM (MINI) circuit breaker would also be appropriate as the "main" fuse... your choice...

NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.

.

Kenny B · Sep 30, 2014

I have a quick question, would it be possible to run a bridge rectifier on then the lighting circuit of the 2012 pro, from the diagrams this is a AC circuit. I have my headlights removed and am thinking this would be a awesome why to power up my intercooler/oil pump and AFR gauge, completely seperate from the ecu power supply. Whats the thoughts on this?

Y-Coil is Lighting Coil

mountainhorse · Sep 30, 2014

Kenny,

The headlight is supplied by the same source that supplies the Yellow wire that is shown in my dwg... That's the cleanest method IMO.

Also... You will need to add a ballast resistor(s) if you remove your headlights or you will most likely fry the VR.
If you run LED's, you will need to add a higher resistance ballast resistor in parallel with those to match a 55w load.

Plug this into your headlight sockets for a clean, low effort job... Plug/Play.
IMO, well worth the price... All the work of sourcing/buying/assembling the unit is already done.

http://stores.mountainfithoods.net/pro-ride-headlight-delete-resistor-plug-n-play/

.

Kenny B said:
I have a quick question, would it be possible to run a bridge rectifier on then the lighting circuit of the 2012 pro, from the diagrams this is a AC circuit. I have my headlights removed and am thinking this would be a awesome why to power up my intercooler/oil pump and AFR gauge, completely seperate from the ecu power supply. Whats the thoughts on this?

Kenny B · Oct 1, 2014

Thanks Mountian Horse for the heads up on the ballast resistor.

I'll order one tomorrow after the pay check hits the account. On another note, I have second stock Rectifier/Regulator, do you think the stator lighting coil could support this on a system powering my intercooler water pump, oil pump, and AFR gauge?

mountainhorse · Oct 1, 2014

Kenny....I'm not really sure what you are asking??

.

mountainhorse · Oct 1, 2014

NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.

The Tyco Connector, shown in the post above, mates to the "AC PWR" connector located in the bundle near the clutch guard.

Also to note... if you want "clean" power... the capacitor is a must.

If you value your sled, and the reliability of it, you should also protect each load with its own fuse.

Reg2view... fixed the photo for ya.

.

.

Spaarky · Oct 1, 2014

mountainhorse said:
Kenny,

The headlight is supplied by the same source that supplies the Yellow wire that is shown in my dwg... That's the cleanest method IMO.

Plug this into your headlight sockets for a clean, low effort job... Plug/Play.
IMO, well worth the price... All the work of sourcing/buying/assembling the unit is already done.

I am guessing you only need one resistor for the light, or is it one per side of the light??

Also if I read this right, the head light is the best place to hook in your "loop" with the capacitor? or is there somewhere better??? I will need to hook up afr, and possibly oil pump, that is tbt.

sorry, I am wiring illiterate. I can do a nice job, just need to be told what to do.

Kenny B · Oct 1, 2014

Sorry about that.. It was a early morning post.

I have a second Rectifier/Regulator used to supply the ECU, I'm wonderig if the lighting coil in the stator can support it with a intercooler water pump, oil pump, and afr gauge running on it. I attaced a pic from the circuit diagram.

mountainhorse · Oct 1, 2014

There is already a voltage regulator in the sled...for the lighting/grip heat/Charging circuit.

You really dont need all that bulk and complication...plus that VR you have does not have a capacitor built in.

So...IMO...you better off going plug/play with the setup I have outlined... it will make a very simple/compact install and give a good "clean" power supply for your accessories. This also runs off the lighting coil in the stator.

.

mountainhorse · Oct 1, 2014

NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.

Outlaw Addict said:
I am guessing you only need one resistor for the light, or is it one per side of the light??

Also if I read this right, the head light is the best place to hook in your "loop" with the capacitor? or is there somewhere better??? I will need to hook up afr, and possibly oil pump, that is tbt.

sorry, I am wiring illiterate. I can do a nice job, just need to be told what to do.

You only need one resistor... wire that to both the HIGH and LOW beam.... I think that the Plate/resistor that Mountainfit sells is a great deal for the effort involved... FOR OTHERS READING THIS-->> You ONLY need to run a resistor IF you are DELETING YOUR HEADLIGHTS... OR running LED headlights that are less than 110 watts TOTAL combined.

You do NOT tap into the headlights whatsoever for the power feed.... the same power feed for headlight/heater circuits feeds the FACTORY harness conector labeled "AC PWR", located in the bundle of wires near the Clutch cover.

Buy the parts in the list with the links shown above , about $45 all said and done... plus some wire and crimp terminals from NAPA.

Wire them up as shown in this drawing...
Crimp/solder your wire to the pins for the Tyco connector using 14 gauge quality wire.... give yourself a couple of feet hanging... Plug the Tyco connector into the FACTORY harness "AC PWR" connector located in the bundle of wires near the Clutch cover....Then mount the bridge rectifier to the clutch guard using a 10-32 pan head machine screw with a nylon locking nut on the other side.... Run the Yellow and brown wires to the rectifier... and use a quality connector or solder the wires and heat shrink tubing to protect the contacts.... Take the (+) and (-) outputs, using 14 ga black (-) and red (+) wire...and run them into ring terminals that will screw to the capicitor that you have mounted somewhere safe and out of the way... from there....run another ring terminal to the Positive feeds on the fuse block... and then also to a good chassis ground.... run the outputs of the fuse block to your accessories... Done.

Spaarky · Oct 2, 2014

Thanks Eric!!! I do very well with a lot of things, but electrical I struggle.

When you have a chance, can you put your original drawing back up. That was a HUGE help!!

diamonddave · Oct 2, 2014

Eric, I may have missed it reading through all of these power threads so pardon me if it's already been discussed but have we determined what the maximum power output is at this AC PWR circuit that we are now going to draw from?

MacDawg productions · Oct 3, 2014

What happened to the rectifier drawing mountain horse?

Kenny B · Oct 3, 2014

I picked up one of these. As I don't have a local electronics store and the parts for me landed were about the same price, this little baby comes ready to rock.

Should work dandy on the lighting coil. I also picked up a resister from mountian hood.

Thanks for the heads up on that one mountian horse.

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/single-phase-rectifierregulator-p-88.html

I'm thinking I could also ditch the stock AC regulator on the sled if I uise this guy at full capacity, which I think I just might do with everything wired to it. Whats your guys thoughts on this.

mountainhorse · Oct 5, 2014

Dave,
In my research...to the best of my abilities.... I've found it to be 350 Watts total capacity from the coil that feeds the lighting/heating/charging circuit.

If the lights are 130w combined on high beam...PLUS... about 50watts on the grip/thumb heaters then you have 220w remaining to power stuff... thats about 14.1 amps remaining to power your stuff on ALL COMBINED auxiliary loads.

Kenny B,
I believe that is only a half wave rectifier inside and the regulator is redundant to the one that exists in your sled... not sure if "stacking" VR's is a good idea or if it will cause problems.... but heck... give it a try.

CAUTION: Read this if powering ANY electrical accessories on your PRO.

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