Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

PRO RMK Homemade Forced Venting

pindallout

pindallout

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I wanted to pass on a Console Venting "kit" I put together for my Pro for Under $100.00.

1. Remove Console and Hood
2. Trace or Mark where you want to mount the Holz Console Vents
3. I removed the manual/tool bag on the back side of the Clutch Guard.
4. Mount the Three Vents that come with the Kit.
5. 10-32 1 1/2" Stainless bolts Mount Fan to Bottom of Vent in front of Clutch Guard (Clutch Guard is Pre Drilled by Polaris).
6. Strip connector off SPAL fan and wire ACC connector to connect up to 2A ACC DC Pwr on Hood.
7. (Optional) Cut and Shape 6" PVC Pipe to Channel air from under Clutch Guard.

Now, before anyone says anything. It probably will not be as good as the other set up out there........ but, its cheaper and will accomplish the same thing. Once I have the sled put back together I will do a "smoke" test and see how it works.

Holz Console Vents $69.99
SPAL 4" Fan (Part #30103009) $25.00
Connector for ACC 2 AMP on Hood $1.49.

Just a thought and something I did. I am sure others have thought of this and may have done it. I just thought I would pass it on.
 
Cool... Thanks for posting up this thread.

Where are you getting those parts at that price?
Can you post up some links?





.
 
I also don't recommend hooking a motor load to the same power supply as the ECU is hooked up to... I can cause too much "noise" in the ECU and may cause runnability issues... That "ACC" plug is part of the ECU Voltage Regulator/rectifier/capacitor circuit... for low loads like a visor heater or cell/gps charger.

Fan motors are notorious for inducing too much electrical noise into sensitive electronic systems.

Loads like this could void any warranty coverage on the ECU/CFi system.

That SPAL fan (I've used it)... pulls more than 2 amps as well... don't be tempted to put in a larger fuse than the factory 2 amp fuse.

Best to put in a rectifier off the AC light circuit for this.

As far as the fan goes... you only want to have a hole for it to blow out of that is the same size as the fan, not the size of the Holz Vent... Cut the round hole, same size as the fan... and put the Holz grille over it... even though the entire Holz vent does not have a hole behind it... It will blow a lot more air that way.
You won't need a duct for it then.


Again...great thread!!! I hope my comments are received in the helpful way I've intended.


phpThumb.php











.
 
Last edited:
The Push Fan (SPAL also makes a Pull Fan identical to this one) does run 1.9A to 2.3A.
So I stand corrected.......... MH would it be better to pull low amps from the DC by clutch or do a rectifier?

Also with the fan mounted in the bottom Vent hole (at the top) on the Holz there is around 3/4" space at the bottom of the Holz vent. So, Yes if you just cut 3/4 of the bottom vent of the Holz would be better. Also, you can custom make a piece of PVC to "channel" more air from under the clutches.
 
I hope the Spec Sheet for the Fan uploaded...... it is the "Blowing" fan the other is the suction. Hence the two types Push and Pull fans. Make sure it is the Push or "Blowing" fan.
 

Attachments

pindallout said:
So I stand corrected.......... MH would it be better to pull low amps from the DC by clutch or do a rectifier?
Click to expand...



Here's my 2 Cents...

That "DC" by the clutch is NOT a power outlet...it is a power INLET for diagnostics when servicing the sled.

I've seen many people use the "DC PWR" for a power source.. .and some product manufacturers using it to power up items... don't use this plug for anything to draw from.

It is unfused and draws from the same place as the "ACC" plug, before the fuse... right from the ECU.

Use a rectifier off the headlight circuit... and use a properly sized fuse.

If you plan to draw any other DC from that full-wave bridge rectifier... use a 40V 5700μF electrolytic capacitor as a filter between the (+) and (-) output on the rectifier as a power filter to clean up the output.






.
 
Last edited:
pindallout said:
I hope the Spec Sheet for the Fan uploaded...... it is the "Blowing" fan the other is the suction. Hence the two types Push and Pull fans. Make sure it is the Push or "Blowing" fan.
Click to expand...

Worst case is "Locked Rotor Current "... when a piece of ice or a twig gets in there... This fan pulls more than double the normal current at LRC.

Good to fuse it above the highest draw in normal operation...but below LRC.
This protects the fan and circuit it is drawing from.






.
 
Last edited:
Thanks MH. I will draw power as you described. If it then that at LRC it will Pull 4.6 A or so. Would it be better to run a 3A or 4A Fuse.
 
You could run a 5 amp fuse. (I've never seen a 4 amp... but heck, possible)

This guy has lots of nice wiring parts.
If you need more than one power outlet... he has multi fuse holders with covers.
The single Mini ATM is nice... And he has the fuses too.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

You could also do a Plug in with the stock "AC PWR" plug... and keep everything clean.

RUN A FUSE to protect max draw.

Mating connector, TYCO #1-480305-0
Mouser #



Pins for connector (order a couple of extras)
TYCO # 60620-1
Mouser





.
 
I am about 95% done and here are some pictures and links to the items I used to properly wire in any DC product over 2amps using the AC ACC plug over the clutch.

Holz Console Vents - $69.95
http://www.holzracingproducts.com/s...ro-rmk?zenid=f853d1848fdf8f7e84883ada5dd30b4e

SPAL Fan 30103009 "Push" Fan - (I paid on Ebay) $25.00 One for $35.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-SPAL-4-PU...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4adcd48317&vxp=mtr

Capacitor 5000uf - $18.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Capacitor-5...417?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25960b2f89

I used a KOSO due to wanted to run fan and GPS power Port. You can use a rectifier/ac/dc converter with lower handling ams. $39.95
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koso-AC-DC-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item540dcbee99&vxp=mtr

Capacitor Holder/Clamp. I am going to use this one but, you could use a cushioned clamp which is cheaper. ****It's like this one BUT 1 3/8" not this size******** $6.95
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZSI-T024MS0...637?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d23400f8d

So for around $160.00 I have created a Fan vented Console vent system with Capacitor, AC/DC converter to handle multiple power points, and safe DC power supply. I am still waiting for the capacitor mount to come in. That is the only thing I have left to do on the set-up. Now let's see if I can post some pictures........lol.

Of course I wish I came up with it on my own....... but, that would not be true....... all the thanks go to Mountainhorse and picking his brain.

IMG_1975.jpg

IMG_1973.jpg

IMG_1969.jpg

IMG_1976.jpg

IMG_1967.jpg

IMG_1971.jpg

s-l140.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks great...

Some suggestions.

Shield the (+) side of the capacitor against shorting/accidental-contact.
Also... Put a 10 amp fuse on the inlet side of the converter to protect the stator and VR of the sled.

The Koso unit is a nice little package... limited to 10 amps output.
Although Koso doesn't specify this on their site. I suspect that it also has a small capacitor inside... The bigger one is better at smoothing out the power.


NOTE: For those reading this that might want to delete the headlights OR run LED headlights.. OR turn off the headlights... This conversion will NOT allow you to do that. ...This is to provide a fairly clean power supply for accessories from a safe supply that does not draw from the



.
 
Last edited:
MH,
In the last photo you can see the 10 amp fuse. KOSO parameters state that the AC/DC converter will handle 10.5 amps maximum.

I grounded the Capacitor to the Frame Ground.

Ran the system ground to the KOSO then onto the Fan.

Power is ran from AC ACC plug (Connectors from Mouser) thru 10amp fuse to the capacitor.

From Capacitor to the KOSO.

From KOSO to 5amp fuse block.

From 5amp Fuse block to Fan.

I plan on using a dual fuse block in the future. One leg to Fan and Second leg fused 2amps to Power supply for GPS. Leaving me with 3 amps of power for the future........gauges perhaps..........hmmmm.

I should have taken pictures before I shrink wrapped the wires and then shielded them.

Thanks again to Mountainhorse for the insight and knowledge of the electrical systems on this PRO.
 
NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

The KOSO unit may work however... but I have no way to know.




Capacitor goes on the DC side of the converter (or rectifier for those using a rectifier) ...between the (+) & (-) outputs.

If you are using a common bridge rectifier...just sub the AC in and the DC out wires of the Koso unit for those.

I recommend a MAX draw from this "ACC PWR" to be 20 amps. Which is AC power directly from the Lighting/charging coil in the stator...

Note: Do NOT confuse this with the plug marked "ACC PWR" in the hood next to the gauge/headlight connector.

And again.. DO NOT turn off or delete your headlights... or use low draw HID or LED lights, with this setup, or you WILL damage your factory voltage regulator.

attachment.php


BRIDGE RECTIFIER CLICK HERE

Insert in place of KOSO unit if desired.
I prefer to solder on the wires to the bridge rectifier for a good connection and cover with heat shrink tube.
You should be able to draw a max of

attachment.php


NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.



NOTE: This applies if you do NOT have an electric start with a battery..
If you have ES with Battery... connect your auxiliary loads, with fuses of course, to the battery using a relay that will turn off power when the sled is shut off.



.

POWER SYSTEM. .jpg FULL WAVE BRIDGE RECTIFIER .jpg
 
Last edited:
This is a great write up... and what I really like about the forums... readers helping other readers and coming up with good ideas.

I really like the simplicity of your setup.








.
 
Last edited:
The following for the KOSO:

Input range: 12v - 30v (ac/dc)
Output range: DC 12v - 15v dc
Max load: 6 watts / 10.5 amps.
 
What do you guys think about mounting the fan where the tool pouch was and blowing the air over the secondary? Just a thought.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Z
From Poo to Doo, first ride Revuu
2
Replies
33
Views
9K
Zad
Z
H
Attainable engineering concepts for current OEM consideration(Skinny sled 2.0)
Replies
17
Views
3K
Sheetmetalfab
S
V
Arctic-PRO, Pro-Cat, Polcat, Arctis, There's more ways to skin a 1300.
2
Replies
24
Views
7K
Visi
V
K
685 flooding on cold start
Replies
5
Views
3K
Blancheeron
B
jtpolaris
2013 Pro RMK 800 engine parts and turbo.
Replies
18
Views
4K
jtpolaris
jtpolaris
Premium Features
Join Now Free!



Back
Top