Here are some pre-season tips for better shock function. This goes for weather or not you have the shocks rebuilt or not.
This tip is a good idea, even if your adjusters are not stuck.
Some of you have been finding that when you try to adjust the springs on your sleds the adjusters are stuck.
FIRST.... DO NOT adjust spring preload with weight on the shock... for the fronts... tip the sled up to take off the weight... for the rear... lift the track off the ground completely OR tilt it on it's side... You dont want to make adjustments with weight on the sled.
DON'T try to force the adjusters to turn with a big set of channel locks or other tools... use a bit of finesse and you can get them to work just fine.
Most of the issues arise from corrosion or dirt between the threads. More prevalent on open trailer/deck hauled sleds as road dirt/salt can get in there and cause issues.
Before putting your sleds into service each year, as part of maintenance... it is a good idea to remove the shocks from the sled, wash them well, clean the threads ...soak them with some good penetrating oil on the adjuster threads... soak over night and then work them up/down with the springs off... get the threads nice and clean and then re-set them to the proper length at the beginning of the season.
If the adjusters are stuck.. get a helper to try to push the spring down enough to get the retainer off the other end and remove the spring...Then soak it again with penetrating oil and give it some light taps on the adjuster with a small piece of soft 2x4 wood...working around the outside... It should release at that point... make sure the threads above/below that you are trying to screw into are nice and clean.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674
For the rear shocks... I find that it is easiest to simply pull the skid from the sled... which gives easy access for inspection all around... easy to pull the shocks... AND easy to pull all the pivot shafts out and clean all the "muck" out of them to regrease with a low-temperature synthetic grease (NEVER use common trailer bearing grease, or blue "boat trailer" grease). Your rear suspension will flat out work better and sometimes this cures the overly sagging rear skid on some sleds. Re-grease with the same stuff throughout the season!!
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674
I put a light smear of clear synthetic grease on the threads when re-assembling them and wipe off the excess when finished with the adjustment.. just a bit of pre-season maint goes a long way!!
After a season of riding ... I also find that the springs take a "set" and can use an extra 1/8" or 1/4" less adjusted-length than when the sled was new.
I've seen the same issue with Fox Zero-Pros, Ohlins, Ryde-FX, Ski Doo, Cat etc.. anything with a spring adjuster and threads in the body.... Clear anodized, not anodized or black hardcoated...
The best clear grease I've found for this kind of thing.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687#
This tip is a good idea, even if your adjusters are not stuck.
Some of you have been finding that when you try to adjust the springs on your sleds the adjusters are stuck.
FIRST.... DO NOT adjust spring preload with weight on the shock... for the fronts... tip the sled up to take off the weight... for the rear... lift the track off the ground completely OR tilt it on it's side... You dont want to make adjustments with weight on the sled.
DON'T try to force the adjusters to turn with a big set of channel locks or other tools... use a bit of finesse and you can get them to work just fine.
Most of the issues arise from corrosion or dirt between the threads. More prevalent on open trailer/deck hauled sleds as road dirt/salt can get in there and cause issues.
Before putting your sleds into service each year, as part of maintenance... it is a good idea to remove the shocks from the sled, wash them well, clean the threads ...soak them with some good penetrating oil on the adjuster threads... soak over night and then work them up/down with the springs off... get the threads nice and clean and then re-set them to the proper length at the beginning of the season.
If the adjusters are stuck.. get a helper to try to push the spring down enough to get the retainer off the other end and remove the spring...Then soak it again with penetrating oil and give it some light taps on the adjuster with a small piece of soft 2x4 wood...working around the outside... It should release at that point... make sure the threads above/below that you are trying to screw into are nice and clean.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674
For the rear shocks... I find that it is easiest to simply pull the skid from the sled... which gives easy access for inspection all around... easy to pull the shocks... AND easy to pull all the pivot shafts out and clean all the "muck" out of them to regrease with a low-temperature synthetic grease (NEVER use common trailer bearing grease, or blue "boat trailer" grease). Your rear suspension will flat out work better and sometimes this cures the overly sagging rear skid on some sleds. Re-grease with the same stuff throughout the season!!
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674
I put a light smear of clear synthetic grease on the threads when re-assembling them and wipe off the excess when finished with the adjustment.. just a bit of pre-season maint goes a long way!!
After a season of riding ... I also find that the springs take a "set" and can use an extra 1/8" or 1/4" less adjusted-length than when the sled was new.
I've seen the same issue with Fox Zero-Pros, Ohlins, Ryde-FX, Ski Doo, Cat etc.. anything with a spring adjuster and threads in the body.... Clear anodized, not anodized or black hardcoated...
The best clear grease I've found for this kind of thing.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687#
Last edited:
