2014: Tweaked Tunnel from ski/spindle hit
- Thread starter FCR112
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geo
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FCR112
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First time for me, seen a few others done up right over the last couple seasons. I lucked out, the quickdrive side is still perfect. But it's getting a reinforced plate installed too as preventative mx. It is kind of a relief to get it done right and make a Durable Pro. Adds about 16lbs for both plates, full tunnel bumper, and over structure. You could probably just throw the plates on and call it good, but I wanted to make it a strong machine.
IMO Polarry could make the black bracket the fwd suspension bolt goes through run forward to meet the driveshaft mounting bracket and the foot well buckling would be solved. Until then, Viva la aftermarket fixes
IMO Polarry could make the black bracket the fwd suspension bolt goes through run forward to meet the driveshaft mounting bracket and the foot well buckling would be solved. Until then, Viva la aftermarket fixes
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I'm curious how you bent it. Are you running stock A arms? I have bent a ton of aftermarket A arms on my Pros over the years, but never a bulkhead. The last A arm threw me over the sled, broke the throttle assy, and popped a side panel off the sled.
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FCR112
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As have I, unfortunately. The bulkhead is perfect, it's the tunnel just aft of the driveshaft that has the distortion.
Standard early season deal...
Took a good rock shot to the ski/spindle. Fully stock 2014. Lower A arm is perfect, Upper arm was bent aft a little.
My hunch is there are a bunch of 13's that have tunnels tweaked a bit and some riders aren't aware of it.
I don't have a '12 around anymore, but the story goes for MY13 and now 14 the black bracket inside the tunnel that the fwd suspension bolt goes through was reduced in size from MY11-12 and that has further weakened the area between the driveshaft brackets and the fwd suspension bolts. I can't verify it as I can't find the sucker on the parts fiche.
Can anyone take a look and verify a difference?
Standard early season deal...
Took a good rock shot to the ski/spindle. Fully stock 2014. Lower A arm is perfect, Upper arm was bent aft a little.
My hunch is there are a bunch of 13's that have tunnels tweaked a bit and some riders aren't aware of it.
I don't have a '12 around anymore, but the story goes for MY13 and now 14 the black bracket inside the tunnel that the fwd suspension bolt goes through was reduced in size from MY11-12 and that has further weakened the area between the driveshaft brackets and the fwd suspension bolts. I can't verify it as I can't find the sucker on the parts fiche.
Can anyone take a look and verify a difference?
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FCR, that's what I have seen bending them too, any hard hit to a ski, or a couple now that were from tail landings(both bent the rails as well).. well worth a few pounds and some labor to brace them up.....
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FCR112
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Is this in regard to the deletion of the drivetrain section?
Cuz I can assure you I didn't ask for a little tweak to my tunnel
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FCR112
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Haha I lied, it wasn't fully stock...
-Those carbides were ground off before it left the garage, that part wasn't a factor at all in this case. 100% positive of it from the damage to the ski and spindle. I'm trying Dan's ti one's now, they look excellent and are really light. We'll see how they work out.
Agreed those stock carbides are dangerous...
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theultrarider
Well-known member
AKSNOWRIDER makes and sells a kit to combat just that issue. Much nicer and stronger than what Fastrax has our. Similar to VanAmburgs set up at a much nicer price tag. Had it on my 2011 and it no doubt saved my tunnel on more than one occasion. Likewise, my 2014 had Zero miles on it when I did the install. Now we just need some damn snow up here!
I wish I had taken pictures of all the small pieces that go into making up the bracing up front in the bulkhead area. It is not just a single overlay plate in the front. For those that bend them first, you can pound it all back into shape and then install AKSNOWRIDER's kit and make it stronger than new and the plating will make it look new again. Worth checking in to.
I wish I had taken pictures of all the small pieces that go into making up the bracing up front in the bulkhead area. It is not just a single overlay plate in the front. For those that bend them first, you can pound it all back into shape and then install AKSNOWRIDER's kit and make it stronger than new and the plating will make it look new again. Worth checking in to.
14' Folded Tunnel and Twisted Bulkhead
112 miles on my 2014, hit a rock on the bottom of the right ski, not hard enough to throw me over the bars but somehow managed to twist the bulkhead, fold the tunnel, and write off the sled. The panels no longer fit and it twisted the drive shaft causing one of the drivers to ratchet on the track.
112 miles on my 2014, hit a rock on the bottom of the right ski, not hard enough to throw me over the bars but somehow managed to twist the bulkhead, fold the tunnel, and write off the sled. The panels no longer fit and it twisted the drive shaft causing one of the drivers to ratchet on the track.
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Dizzle
Well-known member
So you have a totaled 14' @ 112 miles!? How the F??
Looks like a manufacture found out how light you can make a sled before they aren't durable enough to ride.
Went with the FTX kit for preventative. 1 hour install, $125. Swapping the tunnel/bulkhead out was not what I like to do for fun... which is what I had to do this past summer.
Helped a buddy install a set on his 12, the mag side was tweaked a little. Could not notice it just by looking at it, but putting a straight edge on it it was obvious. We just pounded it flat with a dead-blow hammer. For the masses, I suspect as the OP does, a couple smaller "whacks" and it starts the process of bending and from there it won't take much. In my case, it was a "no-win scenario" for mine. The trees grow large in our area! hehe.
I heard that a well known sponsored rider that gives riding clinics (who's name I cannot mention) has these on his fleet.... and retails them from his store....
Install Video
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354822&highlight=tunnel+plates
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357739&highlight=tunnel+plates
Helped a buddy install a set on his 12, the mag side was tweaked a little. Could not notice it just by looking at it, but putting a straight edge on it it was obvious. We just pounded it flat with a dead-blow hammer. For the masses, I suspect as the OP does, a couple smaller "whacks" and it starts the process of bending and from there it won't take much. In my case, it was a "no-win scenario" for mine. The trees grow large in our area! hehe.
I heard that a well known sponsored rider that gives riding clinics (who's name I cannot mention) has these on his fleet.... and retails them from his store....
Install Video
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354822&highlight=tunnel+plates
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357739&highlight=tunnel+plates
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Jeff K
Well-known member
I had this happen last year. It seems to only happen when you hit something under power. In my situation, I was sidehilling uphill and hit a rock with the ski knocking me off my line. The track is spinning pushing the sled forward and the ski hits something that momentarily stops you. The bulkhead is way stronger than the tunnel so it buckles in the footwell. My a-Arms were fine, except the upper heim was bent forward. I actually rode the sled 2 more days before I noticed the kinked tunnel. I tore the sled down, pulled the tunnel to get the kink out and installed the KMOD / Fire-N-Ice tunnel supports Good as new ... and much stronger. Its actually a really easy fix.
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FCR112
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It can be done
How it looked from the outside once everything was removed.
I'm pretty stoked how well the Van Amburg solution worked out... A few of the relief holes for the existing rivets were off a little so I ground them flat. I know they have repeatedly said you don't need to use the Lord adhesive, but again I want it strong so I had at it...Can only help
BTW the quick drive side went on like butta, if you are considering doing these it's a heck of a lot easier on a straight tunnel.
How it looked from the outside once everything was removed.
I'm pretty stoked how well the Van Amburg solution worked out... A few of the relief holes for the existing rivets were off a little so I ground them flat. I know they have repeatedly said you don't need to use the Lord adhesive, but again I want it strong so I had at it...Can only help
BTW the quick drive side went on like butta, if you are considering doing these it's a heck of a lot easier on a straight tunnel.
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Great post...Thank you for walking us through this with pics and all.
Is anyone else glued to their computer on a Sat night finishing up end of year accounting... ARGH!!
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Is anyone else glued to their computer on a Sat night finishing up end of year accounting... ARGH!!
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