Removing trackshaft??

Cat800 · Nov 22, 2013

09 M8 I have a antifreeze leak coming from the clutch side under the tunnel (directly behind the diamond drive) under the hose cover .

I have the skid out, diamond drive out, brake caliper off, brake jam removed. But the trackshaft will not come out of the brake housing.

What am I missing that the track shaft will not come out of the brake housing?

Cat800 · Nov 22, 2013

Picture

Snowmow · Nov 22, 2013

Bigger hammer. She will come. Penetrating oil and a hammer.

RACINSTATION · Nov 22, 2013

MAKE SURE TO PUT A BLOCK OF WOOD BETWEEN THE HAMMER AND THE SHAFT!!!!

Snowmow · Nov 22, 2013

RACINSTATION said:
MAKE SURE TO PUT A BLOCK OF WOOD BETWEEN THE HAMMER AND THE SHAFT!!!!

What fir?!?? That will take the shock out of the hammer blows.

Lol

RACINSTATION · Nov 22, 2013

It also takes the shock out of trying to create a bolt out of a mushroom later on

Cat800 · Nov 22, 2013

Got a 2x4 between hammer and shaft. Is the bearing pressed on the driveshaft? I do not see a snap ring.

Beating the heck out of it, not moving,,,

Thanks for the help

Snowmow · Nov 22, 2013

No snap ring. Just rust

Snowmow · Nov 22, 2013

Not pressed either

Cat800 · Nov 22, 2013

...........

Cat800 · Nov 22, 2013

I like beating my wood but this is getting frustrating

RACINSTATION · Nov 22, 2013

Chancho:

Go to the parts store and get some PB Blaster. Tip the sled up on the left side and spray the threaded area heavily and let it sit overnight or for an hour or so. Then heat the brake up lightly, there are seals in there so you can't hit it with a flamethrower. Then proceed the beating. If it does not shift at all, repeat the process.

Cat800 · Nov 22, 2013

K. Thanks guys!

arctic2009 · Nov 22, 2013

why not just unbolt the brake caliper and let the driveshaft hang down out of the way to take the hose guard off?

m8magicandmystery · Nov 22, 2013

as well it helps when the sled is on its side and you are beating on the shaft to have a 2x4 supporting the caliper tunnel side to the floor to take away bounce...and what I had to do was get the permatex deepfreeze spray.._minus 40 and spray inside the hollow shaft where the bearings are seated to shrink the shaft abit...but yes as racinstation said..first soak overnight with pb blaster..replace those bearings...

Rixster · Nov 22, 2013

It will come eventually, when you put it back together make sure you coat it with anti seize, then you wont have his problem again.

Coldfinger · Nov 23, 2013

I heard a mixture of acetone and 2 cycle oil is one of the best penetrants. I forget the mixing ratio. It's on the web so it must be true.

Get a fresh 2x4, and on the ends you drill a starter holes on each edge, then use a few long lag bolts to keep it from splitting so easy.

Also, in the end going against the shaft, put a lag bolt in the end to help hold it in place on the hollow shaft.

TheBreeze · Nov 23, 2013

The best tool around is found in the BDX dd seal change kit. It allows metal to metal effectiveness without the mushroom tip woes..

Cat800 · Nov 23, 2013

arctic2009 said:
why not just unbolt the brake caliper and let the driveshaft hang down out of the way to take the hose guard off?

At the start I thought it would be easier if the Track and driveshaft where removed, and then I could replace the bearings.
after beating on the shaft I want to replace the bearings.

Cat800 · Nov 23, 2013

I did the penetrate, may have to get the sledge hammer.

Removing trackshaft??

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