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clutch alignment and float

G

geo

Well-known member
I bought a fancy tool (SLP) for aligning Poo clutches. With the way it sits on the primary fixed sheave I get quite a difference in measurements (over .025") depending on how I set it on and position of primary.
I'm pretty sure the Poo tool will be better but it is quite spendy up here.

Does anyone have a spec for a straight edge (ie, 3/8 bar) clamped in the bottom, between the sheaves of the secondary or straight off the outside of the secondary in relation to the back end, of the back side, of the fixed primary sheave (whew lol).
I can figure out my parallelism from there.

The reason I ask is, according to my alignment bar, off-set was out by .050" from the factory. I'm used to this from Cat but I thought Poo was better at this stuff lol.

Also, was there by any chance a change in off-set specs with the '13? Again I'm used to this with Cat lol.

One more question. Poo says .060" float or posible bearing failure. SLP says .020 to .040" and so does Team.
Who is right?
 
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I used the Team Tied alignment bar when I installed the Team Tied secondary (part number 930721). Just a note, Team is backordering these alignment bars until Jan '13 but they are available on Amazon or eBay.
03-930720.jpg


Does your clutch alignment bar sit over the clutch sheave? I have a Polaris one sitting in my garage for the older Edge chassis that is configured that way. Not sure if it's the same for the Pro's or not.

Once I set the alignment between the primary and secondary by removing/adding washers to the backside of the secondary, I moved onto the float adjustment.

It was recommended to me by a knowledgeable sledder that I set it between 0.020-0.060" float on the secondary. I set mine to 0.045" of float. Now again, that's with the Team Tied secondary...

Sorry if it's not 100% applicable to your setup but figured it may help others out.
 
Geo, any reason to not use the pen trick to see how things are aligned at the "climbing" shift ratio? Thought you taught me that back in the day on the Cats. If you are aligned straight at the highest load situation (climbing), wouldn't that increase belt life and performance?

I'm seeing shorter belt life than i'd like to see on the 13 Pro's so far. It's not horrible, but 400 miles on a belt is pretty lame at $180 a pop. Got a buddy that's only put 200 on his before it started pulling strings.

Got me thinking that we may have some setup issues in the clutching department on this sled.
 
Last edited:
geo said:
I bought a fancy tool (SLP) for aligning Poo clutches. With the way it sits on the primary fixed sheave I get quite a difference in measurements (over .025") depending on how I set it on and position of primary.
I'm pretty sure the Poo tool will be better but it is quite spendy up here.

Does anyone have a spec for a straight edge (ie, 3/8 bar) clamped in the bottom, between the sheaves of the secondary or straight off the outside of the secondary in relation to the back end, of the back side, of the fixed primary sheave (whew lol).
I can figure out my parallelism from there.

The reason I ask is, according to my alignment bar, off-set was out by .050" from the factory. I'm used to this from Cat but I thought Poo was better at this stuff lol.

Also, was there by any chance a change in off-set specs with the '13? Again I'm used to this with Cat lol.

One more question. Poo says .060" float or posible bearing failure. SLP says .020 to .040" and so does Team.
Who is right?
Click to expand...

Are we talking the TSS-04 or Tied
 
mrquick68 said:
Geo, any reason to not use the pen trick to see how things are aligned at the "climbing" shift ratio? Thought you taught me that back in the day on the Cats. If you are aligned straight at the highest load situation (climbing), wouldn't that increase belt life and performance?

I'm seeing shorter belt life than i'd like to see on the 13 Pro's so far. It's not horrible, but 400 miles on a belt is pretty lame at $180 a pop. Got a buddy that's only put 200 on his before it started pulling strings.

Got me thinking that we may have some setup issues in the clutching department on this sled.
Click to expand...

200 miles here to before pulling chords
 
Same results here. 275 miles on mine and it started pulling chords. No ill effects though. i just burned the ends down with a lighter and reinstalled it.
 
I am thinking we have a bit of a clutch setup issue. My guess is something changed from last year but no setup changes were made. Hmmm. Going to go out and do some measuring tonight.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
I'm still all stock (other than a lighter primary spring 'cause I didn't want to change weights lol) and enjoying it. No temp or string issues and haven't popped the side cover out in the snow to apply the magic marker yet.

But,,, I have a shelf full of stuff (SLP 3 kit, Tied, cover, weights, etc.) I'm feeling like installing now. So I want to start true and would like to finish the season the same way, never pull a cover in the snow lol.
Maybe the SLP tool was right and I needed to remove that much off-set? My parallelism was right on.

I was hoping a tech would post that the Poo tool showed offset needs to be adjusted from the factory during PDI and confirm no change in speced off-set for '13.

Jonce. Any chance you could give me the measurement from the inside edge of the part that touches the secondary to the outside edge of the part that sits in the primary from that tool?
I take it is the same as the Cat tool, meaning you place one edge along the outside edge of the secondary and it drops into the primary and should just touch the inside bottom of the fixed sheave.
 
Geo... The Pros are not nearly as prone to issues as some other brands of sleds.

I float the clutch about 0.100" and have never had an issue. the splines are well lubed but not overly so... and I've done this on tied and tss-04... All with good clutching setup.

Balance and primay setup play a big roll.

Like SkiDont-89 said... just singe any cords you see pulling out. I average 1000 miles plus before I replace a 3211115 belt and at that point they are not worn out.

Keep your clutches clean and scrub your belt with soap, hot water and a stiff brush every 2-3 rides if you want optimal performance from your clutch system and PM does not intimidate you.





.
 
There will be many opinions on clutch alignment... which bars to use etc etc... Mine is one of them.

There is some controversy over weather there should be any built-in angularity to account for motor movement under load or not and which bars best address that situation.

Once you hold the SPX tool in your hand and see how it "fits" the clutches... you will see that it is a well made precision tool.

attachment.php


The TEAM branded one is also a precision tool.

Don't drop em!!!

Here's a pic of an SPX clutch tool... a formidable chunk of metal !!
(Photos courtesy of EricW)

Pics505.jpg


Pics512.jpg
















.

PS-47477.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info. SLP tool does not fit like that. It is just a stamping.

Any simple off set no. someone has so I can use my trusty straight edge?
 
We quit using the Polaris(SPX) tool in 2008. Hopefully they have dealt with their Quality Control issue. The shop purchased 3 of them and not one matched the other. Granted they are well built, but the corner sections that lay on the fixed sheave is thin. Look at MH pictures. Don't drop it.
We use the SLP tool and adjust for the 04.
 
seems like MH is using more float than the manual says. Poo says .060, MH is running .100. I'd like see some straight edge and measure after using the SPX tool. I can make any changes from there.

I'm going to start making some small changes and see where we get.

But, as Geo stated. I'd love some straight edge measurements too :)
 
TRS which SLP tool do you use? Is it the one that's stamped and looks like the Poo tool? I find that one inconsistant.

If it's the one that looks like two parallel straight edges could you post up the built in offset please.

I've looked through the shop manual and questioned local dealers but the designed off-set is like a secret lol. I have been told by many to let it float too. But why does Poo and everyone give a spec on that lol?
 
Geo, i have found that if you are eating belts with stock clutch specs it is normally due to the clutches not being within spec on the alignment side with the poo's.. I do use the SPx tools on mine, they do come with built in offset, so I have found that if I set them with both clutches hitting the bar on each side(4 contact points basically) the belts will live a long life. One thing i do diffferent from most, is if the alignment is off I will use the chaincase to align it vrs slotting motor mounts, I just find this holds alignment better long term then slotting mnts(a bit more pain on the new ones with the glued cases, but not terribly bad, just loosen case bolts, heat glue carefully with a torch, install tool , rock top of case back and forth till alignment is perfect and retighten) as for clutching, so far what I am happiest with is stock seconday with a delrin washer, seconday with slp blue/pink spring and a heel heavy weight, shieve clearence as close to .015 as I can get it, belt deflection 1/2 turn back from where the belt squeals when warm......once you hit about 6000 ft I think you need to pull helix aangle on the finish side from 42 to 40, once over about 8000 ft I would want to drop that to 38. I do wash all my belts when new as well as belts and both clutches every 500 miles(mine go in the dishwasher on heavy pots and pans cycle, with heated dry....
 
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